tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Side by side shot for reference. Notice the pretty powder coating is long gone.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

This is a rough opening in the firewall for the clutch master. I did have to modify the hole but now the adapter is right in line I prolly didnt have to open it this much. I used some right hand snips and looks like **** for now. I will go back and clean it up once everything is for sure where it needs to be. Sometimes you have to make due and move forward just to get an idea of where you are at.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Here is a failed attempt to make the clutch master work without modifying the pedal. My thinking was to move the master away from the firewall enough to locate the push rod inline with the existing hole in the pedal. That would be a big HELL NO!!! Anyway here is what it looked like.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Here it is again on the master.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

And finally some useful information. This is the tang I welded onto the pedal for the push rod engagement. I will give the dimensions in just a second.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Notice how the tang relocates the push rod in line with the side of the pedal just further back.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

The right hand side. I welded it between the tang and the pedal for a little added strength. Prolly not necessary but I would rather do it now then later. The clutch pedal is a royal pain in the *** to take in and out. I have done it so many times its like second nature now.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Now for the useful information. This is the centerline for the hole that the push rod will connect to. It is .800" from the pedal to the center of the push rod hole. All things considered you should not weld your tang on until you have test fit everything. There are a lot of variables that can throw you off a little here or there. This location works for me. It puts the clutch master in the neutral position while the pedal is tight up against the rubber bumper. I used 3/16" x 1" steel bar to make the tang out of. I used a torch to heat it red hot to get the tight bend in it. I cold bent the first one but would have cracked had I not heated it up. I got the .300" offset (toggle) without heating it yesterday but it makes the offset longer and throws angle right in the way of where it needs to be drilled. You could butt weld a 1/4" piece of steel to the pedal and reinforce it on the left hand side. That would probably be easier.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Now for the centerline from the pivot. It is approximately 2" from the pivot to the center of the hole. I initially tried to use Street and Performances blueprint to fab out a tang but it would not work. I am unsure of how they make it work but evidentily they do. If the both adapters are 23 degrees then the centerline of the push rod should land in the same place. I am just throwing this out there and there prolly isnt anything to it but here goes: If I sold pedals and adapters to fit a particular car, why would I give away my secrets on how to build it yourself? Didnt really think about it until I realized it would not work accordingly. I made the first tang exactly to their specs and welded it at the proper angle and there is no way it could have worked. It was way to far up and put the push rod/master in a weird angle. Just my two cents and it is only an opinion. So dont sick the Forum police on me.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

And now for some more things to consider. This my friends is the pedal bracket out of my car. Yes it is a pain in the *** to get out with the full dash and wires installed. My suggestion is you modify this before the instrument cluster goes in. If its too late then just drop the trim piece under the steering wheel, remove the brake light switch, move any wires running under the column that are not attached to the column, unbolt the brake master cylinder, remove the adapter for the clutch master, remove the two nuts holding the steering column up, remove the catch on the threads that holds this piece up, wiggle twist and turn until it is removed. You may want to remove the brake pedal prior to removing the bracket as it was a little tougher to get off with it installed. Dont forget to remove the spring that pulls back on the brake pedal first. It is located directly center above the brake pedal. Oh yeah the useful information: This shot shows the material that needs to be removed to clear the bolt head you will install to connect the push rod to the pedal. You will use a 3/8" bolt to fasten the two together. You will also need a nylock nut and maybe a couple of washers to prevent any unwanted rubbing and to prevent the bolt from backing out.



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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Here is a better shot of the material that needs to be removed.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

One more tidbit. This is what happens when you order the headers with the wrong collector size. When they asked if I want 2 1/2" or 3" collectors I was assuming they meant the collector size themselves not the connection to the existing exhaust pipe. That was a $62 error on my part. One thing I hate is to waste money and I sure as hell did here. Even though these are some sweet pieces they were expensive. They didnt make a steel version just the stainless ones. Dynatech probably would have swapped me out but since I decided to try and modify one of the 3" collectors that would have been a no go.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Fits like a glove!! Or in my case a Trojan XL. A little tight but a good fit.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

One more thing I forgot to mention, if you can buy the adapter and clutch pedal that will for sure fit, BUY IT!!!! I am going to contact the guy I bought my adapter from and see if I can talk him into bending them straight across. Maybe even try to get a free newer version out of the deal. If not I guess this adapter will see some spray paint and not the durable powder coated finish. We will see and I will keep you guys informed of the outcome.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

tsnow, your work on the details of this project is tremendous, and is the kind of inspiration which kept me going on mine. your comments are humorous, too!

69-er

Don't want to start a vendor bash, but is the adapter from S&P?

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Gmag! I try to keep things light. No sense in being uptight here.
69er-no this is not an S&P bracket. I purchased this off of EBay.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I took the pedal bracket to work and used their glass beader to clean it up. Not much went on tonight as I am watching paint dry.


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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Another shot of the material that needs to be removed so the push rod and the bolt head will clear the bracket.


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Tommy69z

iTrader: (4)

when I had the LT1-T56, I did not have to clearance the bracket, been several years since I did it, and 3-4 since I pulled it out, but seems like I cut the end off the factory slave rod, and added an extention I made and used the factory clutch hole in the pedal, used a rod end for the connection to the pedal...not in any way saying your way is wrong tho