Build thread: 87 Notch Mustang - Ai 416ci LS3, PG, E85
04-30-2011, 11:05 PM
#82
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4hLf...er_profilepage
Finally uploaded a video of it at the track.
This was my 6.6 @ 90mph pass. Haha
Finally uploaded a video of it at the track.
This was my 6.6 @ 90mph pass. Haha
Last edited by Tireburnin; 05-01-2011 at 10:00 AM.
05-02-2011, 08:50 AM
#85
I've got to replace the front struts (found that the passenger side one is bent which may explain the pulling), get the new belts installed, and put some grommets on the fire wall or install block off plates.
My best guess would be somtime in June due to work. When do you think you will make it out? I might just come watch.
My best guess would be somtime in June due to work. When do you think you will make it out? I might just come watch.
07-27-2011, 10:13 PM
#89
I was actually planning to race this Saturday, but my friend needs help moving into his new house. Since that takes priority, I probably will be ready for the next night race.
I have installed my new belts, redid the neutral safety switch, put my new front struts on (both of my old ones were blown), and installed most of the block off plates for the firewall. I need to rivet two more plates in place and it will be ready to race.
I have installed my new belts, redid the neutral safety switch, put my new front struts on (both of my old ones were blown), and installed most of the block off plates for the firewall. I need to rivet two more plates in place and it will be ready to race.
08-03-2011, 09:48 PM
#91
Bad *** ride man..2650 is on the heavy side..i have a notch im doing but she is a tin can.but i can still make her look like shes 2700-2800#s with out me in it..lol
Not sure if your on yellowbullet.com but if you go to the forums an then go to the chassis section theres a weight reduction mustang thread in there..theres a hatch with a steel 302 an alum heads at 2240# rolling..
Not sure if your on yellowbullet.com but if you go to the forums an then go to the chassis section theres a weight reduction mustang thread in there..theres a hatch with a steel 302 an alum heads at 2240# rolling..
08-03-2011, 10:21 PM
#92
Bad *** ride man..2650 is on the heavy side..i have a notch im doing but she is a tin can.but i can still make her look like shes 2700-2800#s with out me in it..lol
Not sure if your on yellowbullet.com but if you go to the forums an then go to the chassis section theres a weight reduction mustang thread in there..theres a hatch with a steel 302 an alum heads at 2240# rolling..
Not sure if your on yellowbullet.com but if you go to the forums an then go to the chassis section theres a weight reduction mustang thread in there..theres a hatch with a steel 302 an alum heads at 2240# rolling..
I think 2500 without driver isn't too bad considering there isn't any money into light weight mods. Stock brakes, interior panels/carpet, stock deck lid, real glass etc. I could definitely drop some weight, but I'm going to work on getting down the track first! Haha
08-04-2011, 05:29 AM
#93
I feel you..im at the point now where all my free weight mods are done..so glass deck lid an vfn front clip along with aerospace brakes are next..i got my car as a roller that had no fuel cell or rad so i just got the smallest cheapest ones i could..civic alum rad 14x16 an 3 gal cell up front.
The lexan for my doors an windows i got for free seeing my uncle works at a sign company plus getting them down to low 30#s each only costed me some time an cut off disk..i am about to spend 150$ for a alum hinge kit which should get them into the 20# range..i have the gutted dash..no bracing an the glove box is glue shut then theres nothing behind that.thing is around 4 or 5#s
I cut the metal out from behind all my plastics..but left it where i can still mount them..i can even put stock door panels back on my doors which makes them look like normal doors with just lexan.i could tint the laxan an because they fit in the stock door tracks it would look like a stock door completely..lol
Have you ploted your suspension,made sure nothing is binding,rear is sqaure? Thing is going to be a beast once you get her worked out..bet she will run 5.80s on just motor.
The lexan for my doors an windows i got for free seeing my uncle works at a sign company plus getting them down to low 30#s each only costed me some time an cut off disk..i am about to spend 150$ for a alum hinge kit which should get them into the 20# range..i have the gutted dash..no bracing an the glove box is glue shut then theres nothing behind that.thing is around 4 or 5#s
I cut the metal out from behind all my plastics..but left it where i can still mount them..i can even put stock door panels back on my doors which makes them look like normal doors with just lexan.i could tint the laxan an because they fit in the stock door tracks it would look like a stock door completely..lol
Have you ploted your suspension,made sure nothing is binding,rear is sqaure? Thing is going to be a beast once you get her worked out..bet she will run 5.80s on just motor.
08-04-2011, 10:35 AM
#94
I feel you..im at the point now where all my free weight mods are done..so glass deck lid an vfn front clip along with aerospace brakes are next..i got my car as a roller that had no fuel cell or rad so i just got the smallest cheapest ones i could..civic alum rad 14x16 an 3 gal cell up front.
The lexan for my doors an windows i got for free seeing my uncle works at a sign company plus getting them down to low 30#s each only costed me some time an cut off disk..i am about to spend 150$ for a alum hinge kit which should get them into the 20# range..i have the gutted dash..no bracing an the glove box is glue shut then theres nothing behind that.thing is around 4 or 5#s
I cut the metal out from behind all my plastics..but left it where i can still mount them..i can even put stock door panels back on my doors which makes them look like normal doors with just lexan.i could tint the laxan an because they fit in the stock door tracks it would look like a stock door completely..lol
Have you ploted your suspension,made sure nothing is binding,rear is sqaure? Thing is going to be a beast once you get her worked out..bet she will run 5.80s on just motor.
The lexan for my doors an windows i got for free seeing my uncle works at a sign company plus getting them down to low 30#s each only costed me some time an cut off disk..i am about to spend 150$ for a alum hinge kit which should get them into the 20# range..i have the gutted dash..no bracing an the glove box is glue shut then theres nothing behind that.thing is around 4 or 5#s
I cut the metal out from behind all my plastics..but left it where i can still mount them..i can even put stock door panels back on my doors which makes them look like normal doors with just lexan.i could tint the laxan an because they fit in the stock door tracks it would look like a stock door completely..lol
Have you ploted your suspension,made sure nothing is binding,rear is sqaure? Thing is going to be a beast once you get her worked out..bet she will run 5.80s on just motor.
When I inspected the front end the passenger strut was kind of bent/chewed up. I bought two new front shocks and when I put them in, I found the old passenger strut was completely blown out. It wouldn't even support its own weight (the shaft would just collapse). The driver side wasn't in much better shape compared to the new ones so I'm excited to see what new shocks will do for it.
As for times, I'd really like to see something below 6.0 (a 5.8 would be amazing!). I know the car has a ton left in it. On the 6.6 pass you can hear me let completely off and then bang the limiter most of the track. That day I had a safety tune in the car with my limiter set at 6500 and a few degrees of timing pulled out. For reference, I don't even make peak power until 7k+ rpm and plan to shift at 7500-7800.
And someday when I get it sorted out and grow a set of *****, I've got an NX plate kit sitting in the garage and a N20 torque converter to swap in.
08-05-2011, 03:13 AM
#95
It will go 5.80s all day..like you said you got completely out of it an that was in the start of the run..which killed youth r accel an momentum ..that cost you. .60 right there then again you had it on the rev an short shifting it..killing accel again..u pretty much pedaled it then stuck it in cruise control. Lol..she will go 5.80s an will have a 1.26-1.28 60ft probley.
08-05-2011, 09:44 AM
#96
Launching!
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When you bringing it out again? I'm planning on being up there at barona sunday the 14th to make my license passes as I'm getting tired of hearing "slow it down" from the track officials after hitting a 6.39@92mph (about 18-20mph short of what it should have been) with my foot on the brakes the last 100ft. Kinda takes all the fun out of it. So finish that thing up I wanna see it go again....
08-05-2011, 10:05 PM
#97
When you bringing it out again? I'm planning on being up there at barona sunday the 14th to make my license passes as I'm getting tired of hearing "slow it down" from the track officials after hitting a 6.39@92mph (about 18-20mph short of what it should have been) with my foot on the brakes the last 100ft. Kinda takes all the fun out of it. So finish that thing up I wanna see it go again....
I've got to do all that license stuff too =(
The 14th is a possibility for me. I plan to work on the mustang this weekend and finish everything up. A few more block off plates and maybe some interior work.
That 6.39 is killer for getting on the brakes like that. Did you get it to hook up better? Figure out the suspension?
08-06-2011, 02:34 AM
#98
Launching!
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kool i hope you can make it out that sunday. My best short time thus far is a 1.43 but it seems to be hooking better mid track with the adjustments I have made. I also plan on working on my car this wknd. Im installing a Team Z relocated upper arm setup, new rear shocks, and new softer front springs in hopes to help my 60' times.
