Stans 1968 camaro LS swap and other upgrades!
10-16-2011, 02:37 PM
#504
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How low do your headers hang? I am about to order all of my parts and am going with the same setup you have (s&p mounts, mast oil pan, and SW headers). I just did not see a pic of the car with the headers. Thanks!
10-16-2011, 03:24 PM
#505
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Well I'm now to the point to take it all back apart and start glueing vinyl on everything,need to pull sub box and finish the inside with aluminum!also need to take paper off of the plexiglas glass
10-16-2011, 09:34 PM
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Your car looks great man. Awesome job on the swap. I'd love to swap an LS in my Camaro. I plan on buying an El Camino in the future, that'll definately get a LSx/700R4 in it. Those kick panels are the ****. That's what my car needs. Here's a shot of my trunk set up, mine seems similar to what yours will look like.
Jay
Jay
10-17-2011, 05:38 PM
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http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=33912
10-17-2011, 08:30 PM
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Thanks man! 
If I had to do it again I'd probably go with a KORE3 or Wilwood set up. I had a hell of a time finding the right booster and m/c combo to get the right pedal feel. I'm running a DSE booster/master w/ a Baer adjustable prop valve. The brakes perform much better now.
If I had to do it again I'd probably go with a KORE3 or Wilwood set up. I had a hell of a time finding the right booster and m/c combo to get the right pedal feel. I'm running a DSE booster/master w/ a Baer adjustable prop valve. The brakes perform much better now. 
11-01-2011, 07:54 PM
#515
With those nice open wheels, not only will the new brakes stop better they will also add to the looks as well. Go ahead and add the rear sway bar while you have rear apart. I just finished the 1-1/8" up front and a 7/8" out back. What a difference in handling. You going back with stock axles? Moser is awaiting a call.
11-02-2011, 04:10 AM
#517
The front springs arent bad to change if you use caution. Jack up the car and put your jack stands on the subframe where it flattens out towards the back. Remove the wheels. I started on the drivers side. Remove the shock. Unbolt the sway bar from the lower control arm. Turn the steering full left, this will expose the lower ball joint nut. Remove the cotter pin from the lower. Place jack directly under the spring pocket and jack the lower control arm up high enough it starts to lift the car off of the jack stands. Break the lower ball joint nut loose but do not remove it at this point. Back it off a few turns, next using a ball joint seperator break the taper lock loose at the lower. Once you break the seal the nut will keep everything together. Now raise the jack a little, this will allow you to take the nut off completely from the lower. Now its a matter of how smooth you are with a floor jack. Start to let the lower control arm down until it comes to a rest. Once it is at rest you can push down on the lower with one foot and grab the spring with your hand. Just be careful as these springs have been known to fly out when people do not pay attention. The lowering springs will be a cinch to put back in. I would put the cut portion to the top and locating the bottom to the control arm accordingly. I would wait till I had the rearend back together before swapping out the front springs. This way you dont take a chance of pushing the car off of the jack stands when relieving the tension on the coils.
11-02-2011, 11:25 AM
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Sorry I forgot you already had the rearend. It is all a matter of choice on the sway bar. I bought a set of Addco's front and rear but the Hotchkis are nice. I like the way my sway bar fits the rear end at the center section. I was concerned that the bar would interfere with the aluminum cover but it actually curved under the center of the rear and cleared everything.
The front springs arent bad to change if you use caution. Jack up the car and put your jack stands on the subframe where it flattens out towards the back. Remove the wheels. I started on the drivers side. Remove the shock. Unbolt the sway bar from the lower control arm. Turn the steering full left, this will expose the lower ball joint nut. Remove the cotter pin from the lower. Place jack directly under the spring pocket and jack the lower control arm up high enough it starts to lift the car off of the jack stands. Break the lower ball joint nut loose but do not remove it at this point. Back it off a few turns, next using a ball joint seperator break the taper lock loose at the lower. Once you break the seal the nut will keep everything together. Now raise the jack a little, this will allow you to take the nut off completely from the lower. Now its a matter of how smooth you are with a floor jack. Start to let the lower control arm down until it comes to a rest. Once it is at rest you can push down on the lower with one foot and grab the spring with your hand. Just be careful as these springs have been known to fly out when people do not pay attention. The lowering springs will be a cinch to put back in. I would put the cut portion to the top and locating the bottom to the control arm accordingly. I would wait till I had the rearend back together before swapping out the front springs. This way you dont take a chance of pushing the car off of the jack stands when relieving the tension on the coils.
The front springs arent bad to change if you use caution. Jack up the car and put your jack stands on the subframe where it flattens out towards the back. Remove the wheels. I started on the drivers side. Remove the shock. Unbolt the sway bar from the lower control arm. Turn the steering full left, this will expose the lower ball joint nut. Remove the cotter pin from the lower. Place jack directly under the spring pocket and jack the lower control arm up high enough it starts to lift the car off of the jack stands. Break the lower ball joint nut loose but do not remove it at this point. Back it off a few turns, next using a ball joint seperator break the taper lock loose at the lower. Once you break the seal the nut will keep everything together. Now raise the jack a little, this will allow you to take the nut off completely from the lower. Now its a matter of how smooth you are with a floor jack. Start to let the lower control arm down until it comes to a rest. Once it is at rest you can push down on the lower with one foot and grab the spring with your hand. Just be careful as these springs have been known to fly out when people do not pay attention. The lowering springs will be a cinch to put back in. I would put the cut portion to the top and locating the bottom to the control arm accordingly. I would wait till I had the rearend back together before swapping out the front springs. This way you dont take a chance of pushing the car off of the jack stands when relieving the tension on the coils.