68 camaro ls swap need help help help
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
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From: Hamden CT
68 camaro ls swap need help help help Ok im very new to this forum and Im just starting a full blown restoration on a 1968 Camaro,rotisserie,sandblasting,etc the whole nine but I need help with what to do about motor fitment,Its a 2000 silverado 5.3 with 60000 miles on it,I bought the corvette accessories for the front of the motor and I wanna run long tube headers,which ones to use,cheaper the better but I know you get what u pay for and motor mounts,eventually I will be installing Vintage air and a dakota digital dash,is there gonna be any problems??. And im gonna be using an auto tranny which one to use,I only paid 250 for the motor complete minus the accessories so I could pass it up,My main concern is ground clearance which oil pan to use,I heard F body pan works great but then I heard it has to be cut so I dont know what to do im drivin myself crazy,Any help would be appreciated thanks again
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2008
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Ditto. Get swaptech mounts, dynatech headers, and autokraft pan. Make sure to use a 4l80e tranny, not a 4l60e. The swaptech mounts come on eBay, the headers you should order now BC they take a couple months to get to you.
X3 on the Dynatechs! The best bang for the buck. I used Swaptech adapters flipped upside down with Energy Suspension mounts and a Moroso oil pan (which I do not recommend due to interference with the sub frame). Look through Futureuser's thread as well as mine and you will find several issues that arise swapping these engines into a 1st generation Camaro. Several people have tons of useful information to help you along the way. I tried to go into details on every aspect of this swap. There is a link in my sig if you are interested. It has lots of photos and several pages. Without this forum I would have prolly give up a long time ago.
Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 37
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I have a 68 with an l92 / t56 in it now.. just put on edelbrock swap headers and they are looking too low.. Running an autokraft pan which is great.. I am thinking between the dynatech and the kooks.. kooks are expensive but ground clearance is top priority here car is really low.. does anyone have a pic underneath the car with the dynatechs? or the Kooks, or other? are they below the subframe and how much? thank you all...
Here are a couple shots of edelbrocks..
Here are a couple shots of edelbrocks..
Last edited by schary; Apr 9, 2011 at 01:38 PM. Reason: photos..
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See the x-body swap thread below in my sig. '68-'74 Novas have the same frame/front suspension as your Camaro so almost all the swap info applies to both.
Edelbrock headers are no longer available (their exhaust division shut its doors). Dynatechs have a goofy primary tube on the driver's side that requires some plug wire changes, but otherwise the only complaints I've seen about those is the ground clearance. They seem to fit well. I am using Dougs headers, but they require a set-back mount for steering box clearance. My initial mockup using Autokraft, "0 setback" adapters didn't go well.
Big thumbs up to the Autokraft pan though. It's a real nice piece.
Edelbrock headers are no longer available (their exhaust division shut its doors). Dynatechs have a goofy primary tube on the driver's side that requires some plug wire changes, but otherwise the only complaints I've seen about those is the ground clearance. They seem to fit well. I am using Dougs headers, but they require a set-back mount for steering box clearance. My initial mockup using Autokraft, "0 setback" adapters didn't go well.
Big thumbs up to the Autokraft pan though. It's a real nice piece.
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+1 on the Dynatechs with a couple of notes....if you use the 1 7/8", the tubes (especially from #5) run very close to the oil filter, and the #1 tube can interfere with the mounts if you don't use the Swaptech stuff.
Another footnote..... #1 also interfered with the shaft for the rack and pinion conversion, but this may be an anomaly for the 1 7/8" tubes and the R&P conversion.
The issue with the #3 high tube/plug wires was solved by a heat shield that had to be fabricated for the brake booster. It does double duty and holds the wires off the header tubes in addition to shielding the plastic booster. MSD wires and 6" fiberglass boot shields were used with the addition of DEI heat shield tubing on #5 and #7 ( the high tube location).
Since I had already planned on using an oil cooler, I began looking at remote filter setups (Canton) using the stock filter pad. The solution was to use a Moroso 20140 oil pan and Moroso remote mount. Plenty of clearance everywhere and the only real concern was oil pump volume, which was solved by use of a high volume Melling. There is quite a bit of AN plumbing involved with this setup, which adds to the cost.
The Mast pan is a very nice piece but I don't know if it will clear a 4" arm.
The stock rear cross member will also work fine with a 4L80E, you just have to shorten it and use a couple of pieces of angle to mount it on.
Another footnote..... #1 also interfered with the shaft for the rack and pinion conversion, but this may be an anomaly for the 1 7/8" tubes and the R&P conversion.
The issue with the #3 high tube/plug wires was solved by a heat shield that had to be fabricated for the brake booster. It does double duty and holds the wires off the header tubes in addition to shielding the plastic booster. MSD wires and 6" fiberglass boot shields were used with the addition of DEI heat shield tubing on #5 and #7 ( the high tube location).
Since I had already planned on using an oil cooler, I began looking at remote filter setups (Canton) using the stock filter pad. The solution was to use a Moroso 20140 oil pan and Moroso remote mount. Plenty of clearance everywhere and the only real concern was oil pump volume, which was solved by use of a high volume Melling. There is quite a bit of AN plumbing involved with this setup, which adds to the cost.
The Mast pan is a very nice piece but I don't know if it will clear a 4" arm.
The stock rear cross member will also work fine with a 4L80E, you just have to shorten it and use a couple of pieces of angle to mount it on.
Last edited by scatillac; Sep 28, 2011 at 09:13 AM.
The dynatechs seem to work well with the autokraft plates too, but they do hang quite low. Stock ride height would be no problem, but I have a 3 inch drop. After a couple of thousand miles, the bottoms of my dynatechs are slightly flattened on the bottom. But the good news is the sparks flying out of the bottom of the car probably looked cool!
