Harmonic balancer ? for truck 6.0L; How do you install?
04-23-2011, 10:01 AM
#1
Harmonic balancer ? for truck 6.0L; How do you install? I pulled the harmonic balancer to swap out my cam on my 2010 L96 6.0 flexfuel motor. It was a bear to pull off; my 3 jaw puller was finally able to get it off, but when it came off it all went crashing to the garage floor. And last night after the cam swap I saw another thread for a Camaro (non-vvt) swap and the guy pointed out something on the end of his balancer that he thought was a "primary seal".
http://www.flickr.com/photos/swingta...7606917622732/
I then looked at my balancer and I don't have that, and it looks like it has a thread for one (see pics of his balancer and mine below). I've looked in the garage fairly thoroughly and see no sign of any seal on the ground. I called the GM guy this a.m., and he looked it up and said GM doesn't show any separate seal; if it did have one I have to get a whole new HB.
Anybody know if I'm missing a seal or was that just for Camaros and I'm good to go?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/swingta...7606917622732/
I then looked at my balancer and I don't have that, and it looks like it has a thread for one (see pics of his balancer and mine below). I've looked in the garage fairly thoroughly and see no sign of any seal on the ground. I called the GM guy this a.m., and he looked it up and said GM doesn't show any separate seal; if it did have one I have to get a whole new HB.
Anybody know if I'm missing a seal or was that just for Camaros and I'm good to go?
Last edited by Goldhawg; 04-24-2011 at 06:53 PM.
04-23-2011, 02:24 PM
#2
Not all balancers have the "seal" you refer to. Maybe it's a specific year or version thing but the truck engines I've dealt with didn't have one. I have a spare 5.3 balancer and it has the lip you mention but there has never been anything mounted to it, there are no tooling marks or anything of the sort. It might be an F-Body only thing.
04-24-2011, 09:58 AM
#4
04-24-2011, 06:55 PM
#6
Just went out to install it using the rental tool from AZ. The tool doesn't reach far enough in for this crank, even though it has the correct end fitting. How has anyone else installed? Chiltons says do not use the bolt to pull it on lest you damage the threads. Anybody have a different tool or what is your special tool just a BFH with a 2X4 to drive it on?
04-24-2011, 07:32 PM
#7
I was told to use the old bolt to pull it on. I tried it and my old bolt didn't reach far enough. So I ordered a bolt 1" longer from mcmastercarr.com.
Take a look at this.
Remember these are stretch bolts (torque to yield) which means that you can't re-use them. You have to get new bolts from the stealership.
Take a look at this.
Remember these are stretch bolts (torque to yield) which means that you can't re-use them. You have to get new bolts from the stealership.
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04-24-2011, 07:33 PM
#8
Just went out to install it using the rental tool from AZ. The tool doesn't reach far enough in for this crank, even though it has the correct end fitting. How has anyone else installed? Chiltons says do not use the bolt to pull it on lest you damage the threads. Anybody have a different tool or what is your special tool just a BFH with a 2X4 to drive it on?
04-24-2011, 09:20 PM
#9
Thx for taking the time to tell me to search but not the few extra seconds to lead to an answer.
04-24-2011, 09:26 PM
#10
I was told to use the old bolt to pull it on. I tried it and my old bolt didn't reach far enough. So I ordered a bolt 1" longer from mcmastercarr.com.
Take a look at this.
Remember these are stretch bolts (torque to yield) which means that you can't re-use them. You have to get new bolts from the stealership.
Take a look at this.
Remember these are stretch bolts (torque to yield) which means that you can't re-use them. You have to get new bolts from the stealership.
"Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimension, install the J 41665 and repeat the installation procedure. The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 0.094–0.176 inch (2.4–4.48mm) into the balancer bore". Then take old bolt out and install new one.
Unfortunately I don't have J41665.
04-25-2011, 07:20 AM
#11
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Goldhawg,
I just recently made a tool for this.
I'm in Cincinnati if you want to pick it up and use it.
I also have a spare balancer bolt new and in the package.
I just recently made a tool for this.
I'm in Cincinnati if you want to pick it up and use it.
I also have a spare balancer bolt new and in the package.
04-25-2011, 10:34 AM
#12
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I just took a a piece of m12 threaded rod cut it about a 1ft long screwed it into the crank, then put a large 1/2" socket between the balancer and the m12 nut and tightened it down. This way your pulling against the threads on the rod instead of the crank. I thought about using the bolt, but the thought of pulling the threads out of the crank turned me away.
04-25-2011, 11:05 AM
#13
You can use a long bolt, a few washer and nuts.. then use some grease to make sure the threads, washer adn all slide and slip well as you turn the nuts on the threads.
You can use a longer bolt, but again, makes ure you use a some greased up washer and nuts.
Just take a look at the correct tools, simple enough to duplicate with cheap threaded rods/bolts and washer/nuts.
You can use a longer bolt, but again, makes ure you use a some greased up washer and nuts.
Just take a look at the correct tools, simple enough to duplicate with cheap threaded rods/bolts and washer/nuts.
04-25-2011, 04:36 PM
#15
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Sorry it took so long for me to reply back to your pm, but My 08 ly6 stock balancer also has a groove around the base but had no oring or anything. Mine also didnt pop off. It pulled off with a puller smoothly and easily and i was able to pull it off easily by hand when it got to the end of the crank snout.
04-25-2011, 04:41 PM
#16
I just took a a piece of m12 threaded rod cut it about a 1ft long screwed it into the crank, then put a large 1/2" socket between the balancer and the m12 nut and tightened it down. This way your pulling against the threads on the rod instead of the crank. I thought about using the bolt, but the thought of pulling the threads out of the crank turned me away.
You can use a long bolt, a few washer and nuts.. then use some grease to make sure the threads, washer adn all slide and slip well as you turn the nuts on the threads.
You can use a longer bolt, but again, makes ure you use a some greased up washer and nuts.
Just take a look at the correct tools, simple enough to duplicate with cheap threaded rods/bolts and washer/nuts.
You can use a longer bolt, but again, makes ure you use a some greased up washer and nuts.
Just take a look at the correct tools, simple enough to duplicate with cheap threaded rods/bolts and washer/nuts.
04-25-2011, 06:53 PM
#17
I believe the threads are 16mmx2mm I know I couldn't find any local and ordered 5 or 6feet from a industrial supply along with a bunch of nuts with the intension to recoup my $. I sold 1 and never got around to selling anymore.
08-29-2011, 09:17 PM
#18
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wow. Dude how did you position the 3 jaw tool? I rented the 5ton and today i got the 3 ton. I couldnt find a way to grip the pully? ANy Help will be usefull. I have a 2005 chevy HD 6.0. doing a Cam swap and I have wated 2 days in taking that thing off!
THanks in advance
THanks in advance
