73 Z L92 conversion
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,645
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73 Z L92 conversion Here's a few pics of the camaro on the ground for the first time.
Rear sits high due to the stock springs. Lowering springs on the way.
Just got the 18" Vintage wheels on Friday.
One shot of the clutch linkage I fabbed to clear the DynaTech headers. I may have to ding the header slightly for maybe 1/8" more clearance to the header. It seems to good disengagement just short of over centering the rod end at the clutch arm.
Coming along slowly but surely.
Rear sits high due to the stock springs. Lowering springs on the way.
Just got the 18" Vintage wheels on Friday.
One shot of the clutch linkage I fabbed to clear the DynaTech headers. I may have to ding the header slightly for maybe 1/8" more clearance to the header. It seems to good disengagement just short of over centering the rod end at the clutch arm.
Coming along slowly but surely.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 526
Speedtech upper and lower a-arms. AGR 16:1 steering box.
Clutch linkage. The Keisler bell housing has a mounting hole for the bellhousing/engine pivot. Eye balled the rest from a stock 73 Camaro linkage. If DynoTech would move the "last" tube forward about 1/2" everything would be golden.
No way stock linkage would work but it's not tough to fab new. Just remember basics of linkage. The top arm of the cross shaft connected to the pedal should run thru centers. 20 degrees forward and 20 degrees back depending on the movement needed. Don't over stroke the clutch arm. Don't over center the rods driving the throw out fork.
With the rod ends I have about $30 in clutch linkage.
Clutch linkage. The Keisler bell housing has a mounting hole for the bellhousing/engine pivot. Eye balled the rest from a stock 73 Camaro linkage. If DynoTech would move the "last" tube forward about 1/2" everything would be golden.
No way stock linkage would work but it's not tough to fab new. Just remember basics of linkage. The top arm of the cross shaft connected to the pedal should run thru centers. 20 degrees forward and 20 degrees back depending on the movement needed. Don't over stroke the clutch arm. Don't over center the rods driving the throw out fork.
With the rod ends I have about $30 in clutch linkage.
Very clean. Nice work.
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There is a bracket available that uses the top two bell housing bolts. Just an "L" bracket made out of 3/16" material. It moves the pivot up towards the front of the block. It wouldn't work for me with the headers. It moved it too far forward.
I a actually have the bracket from sdpc. Its designed for an aluminum bell, so it doesn't put the ball in the correct spot for me because I have a blow proof steel bell and its much thinner than an aluminum bell. Not to mention there's a lot of grinding on the block that needs to be done in order to use it.
I had this engine in a 67 Nova with 3/4 length headers and the SDPC worked after I took a grinder to the aluminum block on the side of the engine.
The pivot point isn't that important as long as the arms are the right length.
The pivot point isn't that important as long as the arms are the right length.
I a actually have the bracket from sdpc. Its designed for an aluminum bell, so it doesn't put the ball in the correct spot for me because I have a blow proof steel bell and its much thinner than an aluminum bell. Not to mention there's a lot of grinding on the block that needs to be done in order to use it.
Can you make a spacer? I believe the bell thickness is 3/4" for the aluminum ones.
I thought about the spacer but to clear the headers the bracket would have needed a least a 1" spacer. Trying to get the bolt in wasn't good because the bell housing is close to the firewall.
I used the "standard" engine plates. Not any set back. I did drill new holes in the subframe and moved the engine back 1". Same as the 1" set back plates.
I used the "standard" engine plates. Not any set back. I did drill new holes in the subframe and moved the engine back 1". Same as the 1" set back plates.
