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Mustang dynatech vs kooks

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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 07:07 PM
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Default Mustang dynatech vs kooks

I am starting my next build which is a 89 mustang coupe going with a LS1 T56 and looking at headers, which do you guys think work best dynatech or kooks especially considering there is only $45 difference between the two.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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I have seen horror stories about both, I went with Kooks and regret it. If i did another build i would try dynatech. Passenger side fit perfect, drivers side was a hassle with the stock steering shaft which ultimately ended with me heating the last primary with a torch and denting it, and then dropping $200 on a maximum motorsports steering shaft which blew my budget by another unnecessary $200. Did I mention that im stil not happy with the fit after the above modifications. Kooks wasnt worth spending the time talking to about it either. Offered to discount my next kooks purchase to HELP offset the $200 for the steering shaft which was never stated on any website that the stocker wont work.

Kooks fit like a glove on my cts-v, but they lost a customer for life. I wish ARH would make a set.

BTW there is always a better alternative......turck manifolds with a turbo on each end!
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 08:04 PM
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Great info, thanks alot. I somehow was thinking that kooks would have had better fitment
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 08:09 PM
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Also looking for advise on commen problems with this build that I may not be thinking about. The coupe is a auto right now, and I know I'm going to have to get a new peddle assembly, what is the best way to go as far as the clutch master goes?
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 08:16 PM
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Grab a pedal assembly from an 87-88 ford turbocoupe they came with hydraulic clutches in those years. I picked up an assembly for 60 shipped on NATO(forum). Then I just made a bracket myself and put it int he same hole as the steering shaft. Do the mount while the motor is out and try to think of where the headers will be etc.

My only other tip for the swap is if you can afford it buy a t56 magnum since it moves the shifter forward, otherwise you gotta hack up the center console and I still havent found a way to make that look good.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 08:23 PM
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Yeah pulling the motor and trans out of my 2000 SS so I will have the same problem with the console. Any way I can get pics of your master cylinder?
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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Sorry man I wish I would have taken more pics, I wound up having to move mine once i put the motor in. I never took pictures and you cant see **** now since I made a new cover for the firewall. I can take a picture of the connection to the pedal assembly and where I put the master from the inside though if that helps.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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Anything helps, I would apreciate it when you get time.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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Dynatech fit with no mods if you order the right ones for the fox or sn-95

already had the steering shaft

No denting or bending.

Tim
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 10:46 PM
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Nobody else use kooks?
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 10:49 AM
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Anybody price a set of custom headers?

Might be worth it if the fit on over the counter headers is poor.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 12:25 PM
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MAC 351 swap headers is what I will be using on an ls1 flange. Hopefully it turns out well for me.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by screamen_seamen
Also looking for advise on commen problems with this build that I may not be thinking about. The coupe is a auto right now, and I know I'm going to have to get a new peddle assembly, what is the best way to go as far as the clutch master goes?
For the clutch you can go the t-bird route, or check into the newer hydraulic conversion kit from McLeod,http://www.jegs.com/i/McLeod/673/14-325/10002/-1?CT=999. I personaly have not tried it yet but it might be worth a look!
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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This is the first I have heard of one for a Tbird anybody got more info for it?
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