LS1 S14 Wont start
LS1 S14 Wont start Its turning over and the injectors are getting signal and its getting spark but it sounds like its not getting fuel. I pulled one injector to test the signal and some gas got in the hole and i tried to start it after that and it kinda gurgled like it was trying in that one cylinder, but after it burnt up it just kept turning over. I dont know whats wrong and I really want this thing to run. Any input appreciated.
Have the injectors been unsed for a period of time?
They can become stuck/closed.
It might be helpful to pull 1 injector & connect it to a 9v battery. When you apply both + and - of the 9v to that inj, you should hear the injector 'click', or open. After you release the battery, it should click again to indicate that it has closed.
They can become stuck/closed.
It might be helpful to pull 1 injector & connect it to a 9v battery. When you apply both + and - of the 9v to that inj, you should hear the injector 'click', or open. After you release the battery, it should click again to indicate that it has closed.
Have the injectors been unsed for a period of time?
They can become stuck/closed.
It might be helpful to pull 1 injector & connect it to a 9v battery. When you apply both + and - of the 9v to that inj, you should hear the injector 'click', or open. After you release the battery, it should click again to indicate that it has closed.
They can become stuck/closed.
It might be helpful to pull 1 injector & connect it to a 9v battery. When you apply both + and - of the 9v to that inj, you should hear the injector 'click', or open. After you release the battery, it should click again to indicate that it has closed.
Some soak the ends of the injs in Sea Foam and claim that this works to unfreeze them. I'm not a believer in this method and ended up sending mine to FIC (sponsor) in GA. While Sea Foam might unstick the injector, it won't clean the insides of them.
I understand that "Old Geezer" will clean & flush your injectors. He posts here regularly.
Hope this helps.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Portland, Oregon
how's your wiring? you get VATS disabled? (thought it should catch and die, if it hasn't been run for a while it can sometimes be confused with bigger issues)
have you tested spark? there are only so many wires to worry about to get the motor to catch - has it been sitting for a while before cranking?
have you tested spark? there are only so many wires to worry about to get the motor to catch - has it been sitting for a while before cranking?
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What is the voltage going to the coils while cranking the motor? A lot of people have connecd the the power wires to a spot that's hot until you start cranking and then loses power.
I pulled the motor last summer from the Camaro I bought, and I just tried to start it for the first time about 2 weeks ago.
I have the power going to the power post on the fuse box, and the starter is connected there as well.
Everything is connected that I can find a hole for.
Everything is connected that I can find a hole for.
Did it have a Body Control Module that was transferred to the new vehicle?
I'm still wondering if VATS might have a part in this
Some folks have sprayed starting ether directly into the throttle body to bypass the lack of fuel getting to the cylinders (because of VATS).
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Portland, Oregon
vats will not stop a motor from starting - only stop it after ~2 seconds. however - if the motor has been sitting for a while and hasn't been fired it can crank for a while and then of course vats will intervene after a few seconds and cut fuel.
I'd recommend feeding it some throttle and trying to see if it fires and then if it dies right away you'll know it's vats if it catches and dies. if it doesn't catch and die i'd look elsewhere - make sure you have your coil and injector wires hooked to ignition hot and your constant power to the PCM hooked up as well.
if you haven't bypassed VATs you'll need to at some point. I didn't have any luck with the bypass modules and had to have a friend with hptuners delete it and bam, instantly working.
I'd recommend feeding it some throttle and trying to see if it fires and then if it dies right away you'll know it's vats if it catches and dies. if it doesn't catch and die i'd look elsewhere - make sure you have your coil and injector wires hooked to ignition hot and your constant power to the PCM hooked up as well.
if you haven't bypassed VATs you'll need to at some point. I didn't have any luck with the bypass modules and had to have a friend with hptuners delete it and bam, instantly working.
vats will not stop a motor from starting - only stop it after ~2 seconds. however - if the motor has been sitting for a while and hasn't been fired it can crank for a while and then of course vats will intervene after a few seconds and cut fuel.
I'd recommend feeding it some throttle and trying to see if it fires and then if it dies right away you'll know it's vats if it catches and dies. if it doesn't catch and die i'd look elsewhere - make sure you have your coil and injector wires hooked to ignition hot and your constant power to the PCM hooked up as well.
if you haven't bypassed VATs you'll need to at some point. I didn't have any luck with the bypass modules and had to have a friend with hptuners delete it and bam, instantly working.
I'd recommend feeding it some throttle and trying to see if it fires and then if it dies right away you'll know it's vats if it catches and dies. if it doesn't catch and die i'd look elsewhere - make sure you have your coil and injector wires hooked to ignition hot and your constant power to the PCM hooked up as well.
if you haven't bypassed VATs you'll need to at some point. I didn't have any luck with the bypass modules and had to have a friend with hptuners delete it and bam, instantly working.
vats will not stop a motor from starting - only stop it after ~2 seconds. however - if the motor has been sitting for a while and hasn't been fired it can crank for a while and then of course vats will intervene after a few seconds and cut fuel.
I'd recommend feeding it some throttle and trying to see if it fires and then if it dies right away you'll know it's vats if it catches and dies. if it doesn't catch and die i'd look elsewhere - make sure you have your coil and injector wires hooked to ignition hot and your constant power to the PCM hooked up as well.
if you haven't bypassed VATs you'll need to at some point. I didn't have any luck with the bypass modules and had to have a friend with hptuners delete it and bam, instantly working.
I'd recommend feeding it some throttle and trying to see if it fires and then if it dies right away you'll know it's vats if it catches and dies. if it doesn't catch and die i'd look elsewhere - make sure you have your coil and injector wires hooked to ignition hot and your constant power to the PCM hooked up as well.
if you haven't bypassed VATs you'll need to at some point. I didn't have any luck with the bypass modules and had to have a friend with hptuners delete it and bam, instantly working.
After adding a module, the car fired up.
Later, I eliminated VATS in the ECM.
Not saying that VATS has to be the remedy, just that it is a possibility.
Last edited by gMAG; Sep 4, 2011 at 10:39 PM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Portland, Oregon
I had a different experience with VATS. With VATS enabled, and without a VATS signal module, the car would crank but never fire.
After adding a module, the car fired up.
Later, I eliminated VATS in the ECM.
Not saying that VATS has to be the remedy, just that it is a possibility.
After adding a module, the car fired up.
Later, I eliminated VATS in the ECM.
Not saying that VATS has to be the remedy, just that it is a possibility.
as many ways as i've seen people experience issues with VATS it's easy to blame if you haven't had it disabled or bypassed - it should always make the top of someones list after they have checked the very few wires the PCM requires to run