4.8 in a jeep tj
#21
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If you don't live somewhere that's freezing, don't have to run it through the rad. The purpose is to get the tranny up to operating temp quicker in cold weather....not so much for cooling.
#22
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Here's a couple of pics of my L92/6L80 in my 98 TJ
Pic of the underhood, a couple of pics of the Corvette C6 manifolds, and the custom console we had built for the 2011 Malibu shifter for the 6L80.
Pic of the underhood, a couple of pics of the Corvette C6 manifolds, and the custom console we had built for the 2011 Malibu shifter for the 6L80.
Last edited by AZSahara; 11-09-2011 at 10:53 PM.
#23
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We ditched the jeep ECU and run the E38 completely standalone. Autometer guages. Fuel pump is from a 2005 TJ--pumps 60 lbs and will support 500HP. Ran 3/8 inch hard line from the back. Relocated the charcoal canister to the rear and ran a hose to the purge valve on the intake. The C6 manifolds solved a suspension interference problem we had with the upper links of the Teraflex long arms. Notched the frame for the low mount A/C compressor. PSC power steering box with stock GM pump. Atlas II 3.0:1, Dyantrac HP60 with 1350 U joints. Genright EXT fuel cell--bought one for a 2005 TJ so the fuel pump would fit right in. Harness and programming by John Spear at Speartech Fuel Injection. Can't recommend him highly enough. You'll find a late model Corvette drive by wire pedal will fit a TJ footwell perfectly. Much much more so feel free to PM any questions. although many issues will be similar this was the only L92/6L80 swap that we know of going into a TJ. Couple of rockcrawlers being built with this combo over on Pirate but this is the only successful swap into a streetable TJ that I know of. If there are others I'd sure like to know so we can compare notes. Good luck with your build. Nothing like the smell of burning rubber in the morning--in a jeep for cryin out loud!
#24
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We ditched the jeep ECU and run the E38 completely standalone. Autometer guages. Fuel pump is from a 2005 TJ--pumps 60 lbs and will support 500HP. Ran 3/8 inch hard line from the back. Relocated the charcoal canister to the rear and ran a hose to the purge valve on the intake. The C6 manifolds solved a suspension interference problem we had with the upper links of the Teraflex long arms. Notched the frame for the low mount A/C compressor. PSC power steering box with stock GM pump. Atlas II 3.0:1, Dyantrac HP60 with 1350 U joints. Genright EXT fuel cell--bought one for a 2005 TJ so the fuel pump would fit right in. Harness and programming by John Spear at Speartech Fuel Injection. Can't recommend him highly enough. You'll find a late model Corvette drive by wire pedal will fit a TJ footwell perfectly. Much much more so feel free to PM any questions. although many issues will be similar this was the only L92/6L80 swap that we know of going into a TJ. Couple of rockcrawlers being built with this combo over on Pirate but this is the only successful swap into a streetable TJ that I know of. If there are others I'd sure like to know so we can compare notes. Good luck with your build. Nothing like the smell of burning rubber in the morning--in a jeep for cryin out loud!
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I dont see on the harness what wire is to go to the ingnition ?
Also There are two blue wires that say brake sw? Are these a safty sw thing? How do I connect them to the jeep?
Lowell
#25
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the two blu/wht wires out of harness marked brake sw.
Im told they are +12 when brake is pressed. can I just tap into that wire?
Im told they are +12 when brake is pressed. can I just tap into that wire?
Last edited by jeeptester; 11-30-2011 at 07:02 AM.
#26
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I am working on the fuel pump this week,
I could not figure out a viable way to bypass the pressure regulator of the oem jeep pump assembly. It is the hockey puck thing on top of the pump ***. There are two in the top pic, one is cut open so I could see how its made. The two springs below it are also part of the pressure regulator.
So I just removed it and ran a steel line down to the oem pump spring adapter.
I am headed to get some filler to fill in around the new pipe adapter.
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-18_16-00-06_241.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-01-26_559.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-01-47_674.jpg)
I could not figure out a viable way to bypass the pressure regulator of the oem jeep pump assembly. It is the hockey puck thing on top of the pump ***. There are two in the top pic, one is cut open so I could see how its made. The two springs below it are also part of the pressure regulator.
So I just removed it and ran a steel line down to the oem pump spring adapter.
I am headed to get some filler to fill in around the new pipe adapter.
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-18_16-00-06_241.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-01-26_559.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-01-47_674.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-25-58_871.jpg)
Last edited by jeeptester; 12-19-2011 at 12:12 PM. Reason: typo
#28
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having fuel regulation issues,
I bought a 2nd regulator because I was unsure if it was together correctly as I had to take it apart. But after getting new regulator it does the same thing. It goes to max pressure 90 psi.
Tighten down on regulator set screw has no effect.
Testing method, power to pump is on jumper wires to batt. I should be able to reduce pressure via tighten set screw , right?
here is a link to the regulator Im using
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190621312812...S:1123&vxp=mtr
With pump running and loosen line to rail to bleed off I can get it down to to 80 psi with set screw allllll the way in. I dont have the vac line hooked up (IDK if thats it or not)
Has anyone used this style pressure regulator?
Ideas?
Thanks
Lowell
I bought a 2nd regulator because I was unsure if it was together correctly as I had to take it apart. But after getting new regulator it does the same thing. It goes to max pressure 90 psi.
Tighten down on regulator set screw has no effect.
Testing method, power to pump is on jumper wires to batt. I should be able to reduce pressure via tighten set screw , right?
here is a link to the regulator Im using
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190621312812...S:1123&vxp=mtr
With pump running and loosen line to rail to bleed off I can get it down to to 80 psi with set screw allllll the way in. I dont have the vac line hooked up (IDK if thats it or not)
Has anyone used this style pressure regulator?
Ideas?
Thanks
Lowell
#29
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I have the fuel lines re-run with the wix (waiting on the mpi -6 end) The fuel pressure reg I have was a boost reg Im told and didnt have a return. Im also told it must have a return! So I went with the corvette wix and its built in reg and plumbed a return, summit racing #33737
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-01-19_16-34-12_804.jpg)
Also the gauges came in today. I have mounted in a cardboard mock up
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-01-20_18-51-04_10.jpg)
I have not decided what material to use behind the gauges, maybe black leather, carbon fiber, or something else
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-01-19_16-34-12_804.jpg)
Also the gauges came in today. I have mounted in a cardboard mock up
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-01-20_18-51-04_10.jpg)
I have not decided what material to use behind the gauges, maybe black leather, carbon fiber, or something else
#30
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Worked on dash insert for gauges. I used a panel I got from a local recycler. Its the material trunk liners are made of. Tough , water proof, and easy to work with. and I think it looks good.
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-02-14_18-55-01_649.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-02-14_19-10-42_856.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-02-14_19-18-29_984.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-02-14_20-11-52_456.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-02-14_20-13-10_462.jpg)
I know messing work area, but hey its a man cave lol.
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-02-14_18-55-01_649.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-02-14_19-10-42_856.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-02-14_19-18-29_984.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-02-14_20-11-52_456.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-02-14_20-13-10_462.jpg)
I know messing work area, but hey its a man cave lol.
Last edited by jeeptester; 02-21-2012 at 04:38 PM.
#31
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Here is a vid of first fire up. The funny thing is that its running on 7 cly in this vid, I forgot that cly 5 was disconected, But it still sounded good to me LOL
http://s620.photobucket.com/albums/t...-04-48_841.mp4
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/th_2012-03-24_15-04-48_841.jpg)
Here is a pic of why it did not start, the short pink/blk wire is the one I added and ran to a ground, pin 52
http://s620.photobucket.com/albums/t...-04-48_841.mp4
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/th_2012-03-24_15-04-48_841.jpg)
Here is a pic of why it did not start, the short pink/blk wire is the one I added and ran to a ground, pin 52
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-03-24_14-32-11_803.jpg)
Last edited by jeeptester; 04-29-2013 at 09:12 PM.
#32
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Here is a vid of first fire up. The funny thing is that its running on 7 cly in this vid, I forgot that cly 5 was disconected, But it still sounded good to me LOL
http://s620.photobucket.com/albums/t...-04-48_841.mp4
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/th_2012-03-24_15-04-48_841.jpg)
Here is a pic of why it did not start, the short pink/blk wire is the one I added and ran to a ground, pin 52
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-03-24_14-32-11_803.jpg)
and a big thanks to Todd for thinking of it,
TODD MCCULLOUGH
S & S PERFORMANCE
HARNESS AND ECM SERVICE
BELLA VISTA AR
479-696-7778
WWW.LSX-HARNESS.COM
He really went the extra mile to help
http://s620.photobucket.com/albums/t...-04-48_841.mp4
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/th_2012-03-24_15-04-48_841.jpg)
Here is a pic of why it did not start, the short pink/blk wire is the one I added and ran to a ground, pin 52
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2012-03-24_14-32-11_803.jpg)
and a big thanks to Todd for thinking of it,
TODD MCCULLOUGH
S & S PERFORMANCE
HARNESS AND ECM SERVICE
BELLA VISTA AR
479-696-7778
WWW.LSX-HARNESS.COM
He really went the extra mile to help
#33
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am working on the fuel pump this week,
I could not figure out a viable way to bypass the pressure regulator of the oem jeep pump assembly. It is the hockey puck thing on top of the pump ***. There are two in the top pic, one is cut open so I could see how its made. The two springs below it are also part of the pressure regulator.
So I just removed it and ran a steel line down to the oem pump spring adapter.
I am headed to get some filler to fill in around the new pipe adapter.
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-18_16-00-06_241.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-01-26_559.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-01-47_674.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-25-58_871.jpg)
I could not figure out a viable way to bypass the pressure regulator of the oem jeep pump assembly. It is the hockey puck thing on top of the pump ***. There are two in the top pic, one is cut open so I could see how its made. The two springs below it are also part of the pressure regulator.
So I just removed it and ran a steel line down to the oem pump spring adapter.
I am headed to get some filler to fill in around the new pipe adapter.
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-18_16-00-06_241.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-01-26_559.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-01-47_674.jpg)
![](http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt281/nankipoot/2011-12-19_11-25-58_871.jpg)
#34
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Hey there,
I recently finished a 4.8 swap into my YJ and its wonderful! I'm running the AA with an AX-15 (I actually bought the adapter from LS1 TJ, Thanks!) with an Explorer 8.8 w/4.10's and the lsd, super solid, runnin 35" swampers.
I used the truck manifolds, worked fine for me, not sure how different the TJ engine bay is though. As for the steering lines, the stock Jeep pressure line bolted right up to the GM pump, and I just used a generic clamp-on rubber line for the non-pressure return line. No issues after ~6 months of driving.
For fuel since my YJ was originally carbed, I swapped in an LS1 camaro tank after burning up a Walbro, no issues since and its all OEM parts if something does fail.
Hope that helps--Graham
I recently finished a 4.8 swap into my YJ and its wonderful! I'm running the AA with an AX-15 (I actually bought the adapter from LS1 TJ, Thanks!) with an Explorer 8.8 w/4.10's and the lsd, super solid, runnin 35" swampers.
I used the truck manifolds, worked fine for me, not sure how different the TJ engine bay is though. As for the steering lines, the stock Jeep pressure line bolted right up to the GM pump, and I just used a generic clamp-on rubber line for the non-pressure return line. No issues after ~6 months of driving.
For fuel since my YJ was originally carbed, I swapped in an LS1 camaro tank after burning up a Walbro, no issues since and its all OEM parts if something does fail.
Hope that helps--Graham
Pics of tank install?
#36
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The oem body fuse blocks were kept. The engine harness was removed. the body harness does not really know the engine is swapped.
#37
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It turned out that I had pinched the line when putting the tank back in, that caused the pump to kill itself. I changed the pump adjusted the fuel line and have ran it 6k miles so far so I think thats fixed. It still has a fuel starvation issue a WOT , I have not determined if its being caused by elec or mech issue.