1957 Eldorado Brougham
#25
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
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I saw one of these cars at the local cruis-in the past summer Couple of neat thing about it beside the Suicide doors are a one piece brushed Stainless Steel roof panel and a one piece Fender Bonnet like a Vett, no seams at the fenders and front panel. They must have been leaded in at the factory. The guy that owned the car said he went to look at another car but saw the Caddy and bought it on the spot. Said he paid 70k for it and it was pristine.
Tony
Tony
#26
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This is definitely an interesting build. Especially with that chassis. SHould go with the cts-v brakes. Lots of engine bay room so some sizeable twins shouldnt be a problem if you were thinking that route. WIll be watching this build for sure
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
#30
FormerVendor
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Did a few more things on the car, such as testing tire fitment. Looks like it will be fine on the rear, obviously too wide for the front but I threw it on there just to get an idea of height. 275/55/17, 28.91 diameter. Wish I had the rear fender skirt here, I can't remember how the latch worked or if it will interfere with the tire, I think it swung straight down but not sure.
What I do know is that a roadside tire change will be next to impossible as I need to drop the rear-end down to get the tire over the brakes. Going to have to think a bit on that one.
Brakes are just a dual 9in booster and disc brake master/proportioning valve. 3.5-1 pedal ratio. Boxed in the firewall area with 11 gauge steel.
Engine/trans are in place. I need to make motor mounts (and new trans crossmember) as I set the engine back 4.5inches from where RS put it. The engine and trans oil pans are 1.25 below the frame rail. Still a bit over an inch off the ground when the suspension is on the bump stops but I may raise up the front of the engine slightly to gain some clearance but I wanted to keep driveline angles shallow.
![](http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/9840/eldoradobrougham147.jpg)
![](http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/3571/eldoradobrougham149.jpg)
![](http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/2789/eldoradobrougham151.jpg)
![](http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/9258/eldoradobrougham145.jpg)
![](http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/1739/eldoradobrougham144.jpg)
![](http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/6858/eldoradobrougham143.jpg)
![](http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/6835/eldoradobrougham154.jpg)
![](http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5837/eldoradobrougham155.jpg)
![](http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/114/eldoradobrougham156.jpg)
What I do know is that a roadside tire change will be next to impossible as I need to drop the rear-end down to get the tire over the brakes. Going to have to think a bit on that one.
Brakes are just a dual 9in booster and disc brake master/proportioning valve. 3.5-1 pedal ratio. Boxed in the firewall area with 11 gauge steel.
Engine/trans are in place. I need to make motor mounts (and new trans crossmember) as I set the engine back 4.5inches from where RS put it. The engine and trans oil pans are 1.25 below the frame rail. Still a bit over an inch off the ground when the suspension is on the bump stops but I may raise up the front of the engine slightly to gain some clearance but I wanted to keep driveline angles shallow.
![](http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/9840/eldoradobrougham147.jpg)
![](http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/3571/eldoradobrougham149.jpg)
![](http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/2789/eldoradobrougham151.jpg)
![](http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/9258/eldoradobrougham145.jpg)
![](http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/1739/eldoradobrougham144.jpg)
![](http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/6858/eldoradobrougham143.jpg)
![](http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/6835/eldoradobrougham154.jpg)
![](http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5837/eldoradobrougham155.jpg)
![](http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/114/eldoradobrougham156.jpg)
![](http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/425/eldoradobrougham157.jpg)
#31
FormerVendor
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
As of now I'm waiting on an accessory system so I can start fabbing the turbo system. I was thinking of doing something different on the engine but I think TT LS is the right move for a car of this size.
#35
Staging Lane
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Why not relocate the coils, fab original stlye valve covers and create somrthing resembling the original air cleaner for the blower cover. I think you would have an engine compt that would really have impact!!
Good luck, it's neat to see projects like this done correctly...
#36
FormerVendor
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Dave!
BOBS99SS- It is pretty neat and is what Divers did with their Brougham but for me it doesn't fit the sound/style I'm going for.
CBAR02SLP- Thanks. Though I'm doing twin turbo now instead of LSA, I've been thinking along the same lines with maybe making an air/water intercooler housing that resembles the stock air cleaner.
BOBS99SS- It is pretty neat and is what Divers did with their Brougham but for me it doesn't fit the sound/style I'm going for.
CBAR02SLP- Thanks. Though I'm doing twin turbo now instead of LSA, I've been thinking along the same lines with maybe making an air/water intercooler housing that resembles the stock air cleaner.
#37
FormerVendor
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Lincoln MK VIII fan fits just about perfect with a little shroud trimming and some aluminum brackets.
I would have considered buying something new but couldn't confirm that their is any other fan available that would outflow this one (and still fit in the available space).
![](http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/8024/eldoradobrougham166.jpg)
I would have considered buying something new but couldn't confirm that their is any other fan available that would outflow this one (and still fit in the available space).
![](http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/8024/eldoradobrougham166.jpg)
![](http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/1074/eldoradobrougham167.jpg)
#38
FormerVendor
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I decided to change to 4th gen F-body motor mounts and move the engine/trans back 5 inches. That required new motor mount plates off of the frame (will be boxed in on top). Steering shaft had to go through the motor mount plates.
All Borgeson pieces. Vibration reducing joint on the rack and telescopic shaft.
I'm going with a Wegner accessory drive similar to the pic below but with simpler windowed pulleys. I asked them to test fit an AD244 alternator because I will need a ton of amps and I was lucky enough that it fit perfectly with no mods to their brackets.
Tried the power steering pump and have good clearance between it and the rack.
![](http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/6131/eldoradobrougham178.jpg)
![](http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/461/eldoradobrougham179.jpg)
![](http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/867/eldoradobrougham180.jpg)
![](http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/5695/eldoradobrougham181.jpg)
All Borgeson pieces. Vibration reducing joint on the rack and telescopic shaft.
I'm going with a Wegner accessory drive similar to the pic below but with simpler windowed pulleys. I asked them to test fit an AD244 alternator because I will need a ton of amps and I was lucky enough that it fit perfectly with no mods to their brackets.
Tried the power steering pump and have good clearance between it and the rack.
![](http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/6131/eldoradobrougham178.jpg)
![](http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/461/eldoradobrougham179.jpg)
![](http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/867/eldoradobrougham180.jpg)
![](http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/5695/eldoradobrougham181.jpg)
![](http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/4451/wegneraccy.jpg)