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To follow back up with this I went the Schoenfeld route. It clear my clutch linkage well. It did not clear the frame well though. I had to basically flatten out the #3 tube with a hammer and I can barely see any light between the frame rail of my truck. My truck is a CUCV (5/4 ton). Not sure if the frame is beefier than most in that area. I was pretty happy with the fit overall after that. I am using the recommended dirty dingo mounts. Maybe the clearance would get better if I could figure out how to shift the whole engine assembly backwards in the mounts.
One of the forum members here posted in my thread and included some good pictures, that the LH F-body manifold clears both the frame and stock slave cylinder too.
I have a 1982 Camaro that I'm trying to convert to hydraulic while doing an LS swap and keeping the original T10. I have the American Powertrain Hydramax bearing. I didn't get their fancy master cylinder, just what looks similar to a stock 4th gen F-Body master cylinder. The bearing comes with a pack of shims that you're supposed to measure and do some math on how many shims you need:
Thanks for this great information. I'm just putting together a parts list to swap a '06 5.3 in to my 68 C50 with a 4spd. It was a 10T input shaft. The original flywheel, clutch and pressure plate were huge (16" flywheel) so I'm planning to change it all. I'm planning on the Sachs NFW1050 flywheel but am a bit confused as to why the matching friction disc and pressure plate from an '05 3500 wouldn't be a good choice. You seem to go with an older 10T BBC version. Is this just for cost savings? It seems that the '05 disc would be a better match. What am I missing?
It is a better match, and I would recommend it, but it’s quite a bit more expensive than a BBC clutch. You gain the correct disc inlay, alignment pins working properly, and no modification to bolt holes for the OEM hardware to work. They do make two versions of the clutch and pressure plate kit, with the difference being the styles of throw out bearings. I used the conventional style for my build and bought the kit from Oreilly’s.
Thanks Nick. I've ordered the '05 flywheel and clutch kit. I also ordered ARP bolts and an adjustable pivot bolt (truck style). There should be tons of room in the bellhousing so hopefully it all comes together. I'll update here once I get it together.
The truck disk and pressure plate are larger that the old school bbc setup. With the 621 bell I wasn't sure it would fit. It would probably fit in the old 5 bolt truck bell, but that's got a larger cutout for the bearing retainer than is found on a muncie.
Here's my parts list. I have everything except my mystery throw out bearing
6.0
LS7 clutch and flywheel
Ancient Lakewood Blowproof (sbc style)
GM TKO 500
LS1 Master cylinder
G-body chassis Hydraulicthrowout bearing??
I'm in the process of removing 406/TKO combo (mech clutch linkage). I'd like to re-use my TKO rather than a t56.
I didnt realize a hydraulic TO bearing would be a challenge on a TKO. Is there anyone aware of a kit that allows the use a modern style hyd TO bearing on a older style transmission?
I don't want to run a slave cylinder because G bodies dont really allow for that for both clearance and bell housing issues
If anyone sees an issue with the parts list above, please let me know. Thanks
***looks like i found it*** posting for others benefit.
If anyone sees conflicting parts in my list please let me know https://ramclutches.com/product/78131/
Last edited by HarrisonTX; 04-18-2021 at 02:03 PM.
I used a RAM hydraulic throw out bearing on my 78 Chevy build. I haven’t driven the truck yet, but I was very impressed at the quality of the part. Bled very easily.
Ended up using a harbor freight 1/4 glass drill to cun all the way though the fork. The. Installed a bolt with a nut on the inside to keep it from coming off.
Last edited by machineica; 04-18-2021 at 09:33 PM.
Wow, I read this entire thread and clicked all of the links. The most amazing thing is that I still have a question.
I have:
LS1
Muncie M20 4 speed with 26 tooth input.
Truck bellhousing 460486. Will get the adapter ring to fit the muncie front bearing plate correctly.
I have bigger pilot bearing that fits in the outer flange.
I have the longer throwout bearing.
I have an 11" clutch that just came off of a SBC. I'm not worried about the splines of the friction disc running off a bit, per Gary. I have the matching pressure plate that was on the SBC flywheel.
After reading all of the threads, I'm still confused about what flywheel I need to make all of this work. And since I'm not using the 621 bell, and using the truck one with the extra clearance, should I expect to have clearance issues with my SBC pressure plate?
Should I get an LS flywheel and open up the SBC pressure plate holes to fit the metric bolts?
or
Get a conversion style flywheel that I think the SBC pressure plate bolts up to but is .4 thicker? Is that right, but then does the .4 make potential clearance issues worse?
If anyone is still monitoring this thread, and can answer, thank you in advance!
There are 2 flywheels that can be used for early LS crank bolt patterns, one with the crank flange that's pretty near flush with the back of the engine and one that's protruding .4" https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...s-spacers.html
I think its this one that's almost flush but you're gonna have to check you're application to verify. If its the .4" protruding one then Mcleod makes a special flywheel for that one.
I used this flywheel (flush crank flange) when I did my conversion on my 1st gen 6.0L with Tremec. It's drilled for a 11" sbc/bbc clutch pattern as well as LS 12" clutch with metric bolts. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-460530
Now I think its probably best to use a hydraulic system because you can adjust the placement of the throwout bearing to achieve the approx. .150" air gap clearance on the clutch using spacer shims. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-82873
I used a 621 bellhousing for LS engines like this one and it worked out fine for me, not sure about the one you're using. Muncie and Tremec's bolt right up to it, no problems. You might want to get the right bellhousing to save a bunch of aggravation. https://butler-ls.com/i-23375837-gm-...ng-for-ls.html
This GM starter #12617229 also worked for my application.
Lastly, its best to dial in whichever bellhousing you use to make sure its parallel as well as concentric to the crankshaft to avoid input shaft bearing wear and shifting problems. Sometimes offset dowel pins are needed.
Since you've got a 26 spline muncie, just use an 02 fbody flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. You'll still need outer flange pilot bearing and and longer throwout bearing.
Originally Posted by nvm
Wow, I read this entire thread and clicked all of the links. The most amazing thing is that I still have a question.
I have:
LS1
Muncie M20 4 speed with 26 tooth input.
Truck bellhousing 460486. Will get the adapter ring to fit the muncie front bearing plate correctly.
I have bigger pilot bearing that fits in the outer flange.
I have the longer throwout bearing.
I have an 11" clutch that just came off of a SBC. I'm not worried about the splines of the friction disc running off a bit, per Gary. I have the matching pressure plate that was on the SBC flywheel.
After reading all of the threads, I'm still confused about what flywheel I need to make all of this work. And since I'm not using the 621 bell, and using the truck one with the extra clearance, should I expect to have clearance issues with my SBC pressure plate?
Should I get an LS flywheel and open up the SBC pressure plate holes to fit the metric bolts?
or
Get a conversion style flywheel that I think the SBC pressure plate bolts up to but is .4 thicker? Is that right, but then does the .4 make potential clearance issues worse?
If anyone is still monitoring this thread, and can answer, thank you in advance!
cula8r and gary. Thank you!
I believe I have the more 'flush' flange, here's a pic:
Gary,
The clutch disc I have is 26, and is only about a year old with a few hundred miles on it, as well as the pressure plate. So I was hoping to re-use.
What is the rationale behind buying a new pressure plate? I really appreciate and value your input on this, not trying to challenge your logic, just want to understand it. I'm guessing it's that I can find a new LS flywheel and pressure plate for under $500 and the 'adapter' style flywheel is already like $300, so just get the new matched set?
Also, neither of you suggested just using a 'cheap' LS flywheel and reaming out the pressure plate bolts to fit the metric bolts. Is that a balance concern? Or am I misunderstanding something there as well?
Of course I'm trying to reuse as much as I have here instead of buying new stuff if I can.
Thank you guys!
I believe I have the 'flush' flange:
I'm trying to understand the rationale behind each of your answers, so now I have a couple more questions. I really appreciate your input, not disagreeing.
Per cula8r, I should be able to use my current clutch and pressure plate, but then I'm spending about $300 for one of the 'conversion' style flywheels, and realistically another $50 in bolts and shipping.
Per Gary, if I use an LS flywheel, I would also use an LS clutch/pressure plate. Which would probably run me around $500?? Gary, do I assume you're suggesting this route because for the price I have all new 'matching' stuff?
Neither of you suggested using my current clutch and pressure plate ( I should have mentioned they have only a few hundred miles on them), a regular LS flywheel, and drilling the pressure plate holes to be able to use the SBC 11" one that I have. Is this not a feasible option? Or not preferred due to potential balance issues?
Thanks again guys. I really appreciate it. This thread is great.
Ok, this is the 3rd time in a couple of days here that I've tried to respond to this. The first times I had pictures of my crank flange, this time I'll post without and see if it goes through. The picture was just to confirm that I have the flush flange.
Basically I wanted to thank both of you guys, cula8r and Gary for responding. I really appreciate your help.
Also, I already have a friction disc and pressure plate that came off of a SBC that only have a few hundred miles on them.
Is it NOT an option to bolt them to a regular LS flywheel?
Neither of you recommended that option, which seems like it would be the cheapest/easiest in my situation. I'm curious of you rationale why I would not go that route?
Ok, this is the 3rd time in a couple of days here that I've tried to respond to this. The first times I had pictures of my crank flange, this time I'll post without and see if it goes through. The picture was just to confirm that I have the flush flange.
Basically I wanted to thank both of you guys, cula8r and Gary for responding. I really appreciate your help.
Also, I already have a friction disc and pressure plate that came off of a SBC that only have a few hundred miles on them.
Is it NOT an option to bolt them to a regular LS flywheel?
Neither of you recommended that option, which seems like it would be the cheapest/easiest in my situation. I'm curious of you rationale why I would not go that route?
The issue with using a regular SBC pressure plate is that it will have a different bolt pattern. A low cost solution is to use either a LS6 or LS7 clutch and their matching flywheels.
The issue with using a regular SBC pressure plate is that it will have a different bolt pattern. A low cost solution is to use either a LS6 or LS7 clutch and their matching flywheels.
Andrew
Thank you Andrew. If that's the case, it looks like I can find basic clutch kits for the LS6/7 in the $300 range. I'm not a drag racer, the hardest thing I do to a clutch might be to load the car on a trailer so I'm not afraid of a 'basic' clutch.
I thought I had seen some people saying that it was possible to open up a couple of the holes on the SBC clutch for the metric bolts and then they will bolt on. Is that incorrect? Or is it just a bad idea for balance reasons?
Thank you Andrew. If that's the case, it looks like I can find basic clutch kits for the LS6/7 in the $300 range. I'm not a drag racer, the hardest thing I do to a clutch might be to load the car on a trailer so I'm not afraid of a 'basic' clutch.
I thought I had seen some people saying that it was possible to open up a couple of the holes on the SBC clutch for the metric bolts and then they will bolt on. Is that incorrect? Or is it just a bad idea for balance reasons?
Just be careful. LS1/6 flywheels only work with their respective clutches. The LS2/7 flywheels are different from the LS1/6 flywheels and need matching pressure plates. In other words, you can't use a LS7 clutch on a LS1 flywheel.
07-26-2020, 09:08 PM
