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I have a 64 c10 with a 02 5.3 and looking to put a m20 behind it. Do I have to go hydraulic?
The LS engines have no provision for the cross-shaft ball socket mount, but there are aftermarket bell housings that do. So, you can stay with a mechanical linkage...
Nope, you can use the Z bar you have.
SDparts sells a couple brackets for the Z bar.
621 bells have a boss tapped for one too.
See the first page for examples of both.
Originally Posted by Jadedbird
I have a 64 c10 with a 02 5.3 and looking to put a m20 behind it. Do I have to go hydraulic?
I used the recommended long throwout bearing, correct pilot bearing, new complete clutch kit from the 02 Camaro my LS1 came out of, all new clutch pedal assembly, z-bar etc. and this thing wants to 'pop' you into 'go' mode. There is no 'sliding' into forward motion if you get what I mean. You gently let off the clutch...and midway, right when it stats to grab....bam...full clutch engagement and kicks the pedal up. What's up with this goofy thing?? Using a Super T10 tranny BTW. Pressure plate/flywheel combo is a LUK brand from NAPA. It does this in every gear, neutral, and when not even running. Is the pressure plate bad out of the box??
Mike
Last edited by mt5425; 05-05-2015 at 12:46 PM.
Reason: add
Anything broken on the Zbar mounts? Any slop in the mechanical linkage areas? Clutch disc inserted the way against the flywheel? There is a right and a wrong way on these clutches I believe? Someone else may be able to answer that one.
All linkage ,mounts,etc is new. 100% All moves smoothly until connected to the pressure plate. Clutch plate installed correctly. Damn thing is getting extra springback from somewhere.
Last edited by mt5425; 05-05-2015 at 02:14 PM.
Reason: add
I took the return spring off, same thing. It's a week spring actually. But, I'm just wondering if its something to do with all the extra springs and stuff in the LS1 pressure plate. An original 70 Chevelle doesn't have all that.
The adj rod on the z-bay is backed all the way out. I'm thinking I need the shorter bearing. But I agree, maybe its going too far in and bouncing back into position.
Start the car, press the clutch pedal a 1/3 of the way down and attempt to put it into gear. If it doesn't grind, try to let out the clutch and see if you can get some slippage without the spring back. Try to find the point at which it wants to grind in relation to how far you're pushing on the clutch pedal. Something doesn't sound right for sure.
Still going with the shorter bearing though. I literally have 1/16 free play with no linkage attached between it and the fingers and it's back up as far as it will travel on the trans shaft.
Air gap between the fingers and the TOB is usually pretty small typically, but if your adjusting rod is all the way backed off, then that could be your problem.
If you can move the fork boot out of the way, verify that the fingers are at least fully backed off the TOB. If they are, you may be able to get it to work with some modifications. It's hard to say without seeing it myself.
Still going with the shorter bearing though. I literally have 1/16 free play with no linkage attached between it and the fingers and it's back up as far as it will travel on the trans shaft.
I'm using the short pivot ball. I've done everything to the letter per the beginning of this post. I'm not getting whats up with mine. Last time I did an auto to stick conversion was in like 1984, when you could get all original stuff from the bone yard off the exact same car. That was nice. And yes, used to be a ton of 70-72 Chevelles in the yards back then.
Last edited by mt5425; 05-06-2015 at 05:31 AM.
Reason: add
Going to try the shorter bearing this weekend, if it still fails, ripping out the new 02 clutch setup and going with the Sachs 1050 and old style pressure plate. We'll see.
Did you install the throwout bearing correctly on the fork? There's a diagram about 3/4 the way down on the page on the link below.
Also make sure the rear flange of the bearing isn't cracked and the fork is seated correctly on the ball stud. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm
Yep. Made sure it wasn't under the tabs. I saw the cutaway of the 02 clutch too. Lot of springs in there that could have been set up wrong. Napa says they'll swap it out.
Douglee25 was correct. It's the clutch fingers going in too far. BUT...it's gotta be a bad pressure plate. There is literally 1/4 inch pedal travel between getting it to go into gear, trying to slip it into rolling motion, and full engagement. My toes move that much pushing the pedal in!! LOL. That is NOT a livable travel variable in my opinion. Anything more than 1/4 inch down or up movement, and it does that damn 'pop', which was the fingers.
05-05-2015, 11:56 AM
Issues with my 70 Chevelle LS1/4spd 
