eroc022

iTrader: (7)

If its any help the year one door panels are a pain to install.... I have a set on mine and they don't want to stay clipped into the door. Even after buying new clips and hardware. Plus they need trimmed at the front and back. And to put the speaker in you have to cut a little metal behind the opening.

Nice build though I finished mine in spring and now going t56, 4th gen seats, vintage air, and upgrading some things...... I love it though

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

I'd leave the leaf springs and the 10 bolt that's in it. If it's still factory, it'll have 3.42 and posi as it is. Unless it's a heavy hitting race car, there is no need for 4-links or ladder bars and 9" rears. The rear is extremely strong from the factory and upgrades make it even better. You can put an 11" wheel under there with a 315-35-17 tire. That's a 12 1/2 inch section width. After that you'll be cutting and welding. Or are you thinking wider? I've seen leaf spring cars with nothing but Cal-Tracs go high 8's(1/4 mi). I guess I'm saying spend money else where unless you want to say you have a 4-link and 9". By all means I'm not trying to tell you how to build your car, just an opinion on saving A LOT of money, time and aggravation. Keep us posted on progress.

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

....And dammit. I just realized you have 4 wheel discs! I would deffinitely leave what you have there. You have a posi and 3.42's now! WELL WORTH USING WHAT YOU HAVE. Just MHO.

Jimbo1367

Who makes a tire this size? The biggest 17" I found was a 295 or 305 (I forget) drag radial. I was hoping for a street tire.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure about the 3.42 rear. I thought that is was a 2.73. I'll look at the build sheet when I get home.. I was told the car was originally the 403 T/A, but haven't even looked at the vin.
I did find the build sheet that was on top of the gas tank (what was left of it) but didn't pay attention to anything at the time. I shelved it.
How much hp can the 10 bolt handle? How much to build it? I'm thinking the car may have 600fwhp or more.
And I appreciate any advise 2nd Gen Fl 'bird.
Btw I bought this car along with a 78 for 1500, came with the 78 403(not in it) and tranny, a brand new interior set and extra fender and trunk lid.
Thought it was a good deal. Just sold the 78 (it needed a new pass fender, front nose and hood). Sold it to a friend for 1k.
Thinking of selling the interior set because I'm painting the car blue and am not to sure on blue w/camel interior.
Thank all for help and advise

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

ooops 335/35/18 accidently hit the 7. getting Toyo Proxes

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

With the wheels and 4 wheel disc, it appears that your car is a WS6 car. All Trans Am cars came with a posi(actual name from GM is "limited slip") as for gearing, 4 speed cars had the 3.42 Auto cars came with an assortment. So, it could very well have a 2.73 A turbo motor has such a "soft" launch I wouldn't worry building the rear with after market parts right now. The turbo will like the 2.73 gear more anyway, I feel. IIRC you can buy a kit for around 6-700.00 that comes with everything to upgrade to crazy strength. I had a Procharger, drag radials and Cal-tracs on my car at one point. Never broke it, never even thought about it and it is bone stock. I sound like a broken record but, keep what you have and apologize to your family member for keeping it. Why do think he wants it? BTW, another build sheet is behind the rear seat back(stuck between the springs and foam) if no one has removed it in the past. Feel free to ask questions when they arise.

I would also go with 18" wheels. My next set will be that. A taller tire would fill the wheel well a little better while keeping the same width.

Edit again: the camel with the Blue is a good combo

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

if thats the same 10bolt that was in my '71 gto you'll be fine especially if you have a auto. and nice you got a WS6

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

Would be the same, "corporate 10 bolt".

Hoodshaker

I may have some interest in the interior stuff if you go another direction, particularly if you have the Camel Tan cloth seats covers.

WR450 Supermoto

Yep, 8.5" 10 bolt is pretty tough. They are even better with a cast rear cover and the tubes fully welded to the center. Aftermarket axles / studs are a good upgrade too.

I have the above set-up in a 3400 lb 70 Camaro NHRA stocker with the L78 375/402 motor combo (402 BBC with square port heads / solid cam / holley 780). It gets out pretty well... on 5:13 gears with a 5k stall speed, never broken anything in the rear end.

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

Exactly this^^^^^^^^^^^ 5:13 gear and that kind of stall. A very true testament of the 8.5

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

i ran mine with new richmond 3.90s and a eaton HD and it was quiet as a mouse. burnout machine.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

My brother don't want the rear end. He has a bunch of 9"s. He's building a 454ci bb 79 corvette with ford 9" and all kinds of other things. He built a 700r4 for that motor out of 3 different tranny's, a 80e, 60e, and 65e.
My seats are leather. They are new but look rough, they need a serious bath.. dust all over.
Since it seems to be everyone idea that the rear will be a good one, I'll keep it and use the money elsewhere. I looked at the cal-tracs they are nice.
I think I'll get the wheel/tires first and see whether or not I'll need to do a 4-link and or flare.
Plan on spending around 3k in the next 2months. Will try to post progress. Most progress should come in March.
Thanks for the info guys!!

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

It's been a while since I've posted anything! I work offshore and home maybe 20 days every 40-50 so here is a pic of what I have accomplished last I was home.
Hopefully next time I'm home I'll be able to start and hear the car run.
Things I've done to the car so far:

Painted bottom side of car
Removed axle, blasted primed and painted reinstalled with new poly rubbers
Removed rear springs, blasted primed and painted and reinstalled
Sumped gas tank, waiting to blast, clean and paint

Painted subframe and suspension components
Installed 2" drop springs
New ball joints
Eldelbrock performance front shocks
All new poly bushings on all suspension and body mounts

Rebuilt engine with forged pistons and H-beam C.R
Had SS exhaust valves installed 1.60
Comp cams turbo cam with valve train hardware
Ls2 timing kit
Melling oil pump
Trunion upgrade
F-body oil pan
Leginfelter intake
3 bar map
Spliced harness


4l80E tranny with Transgo rebuild kit and shift kit
Changed rear shaft and housing on tranny to accept slip yoke
Built tranny mount crossmember

Working on exhaust for the On3 turbo 76mm w/.96 A/R. (Thinking of later going to twins to clean engine bay up, will decide later)

Things still to do:

Finish Hotside
Finish cold side
Install O2 sensor bungs
Install IAT sensor bung
Install wideband bung
Buy wideband (probably AEM)
Install harness
Build driveshaft
Change rear oil
Install new brake lines
Install fuel system (-8 AN with A1000 fuel pump to boost reference Regulator)
Think of a way to reinstall A/C (wondering if I can make a newer smaller one fit)
Get new Brake booster and wiper motor
Thinking of putting non ebrake brakes on rear discs. (I don't use e-brake with auto anyways)
Sand, Prime and Paint body
Get carpet and guages and dash cover.

Lots and lots to do hahahahah

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Another, I will get better pics when I get home in 38 days.

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

I think I'll get the wheel/tires first and see whether or not I'll need to do a 4-link and or flare

Wheels/tires and be done with that part. Add Cal-Tracs and you're golden. My friend has a nitous car(9 sec.) It would carry the front wheels 20-25 ft with just the Cal-Tracs and 10 bolt, upgrades of course. For what ever reason he was told "Oh, you need a 4 link now". Well, he did and gained absolutely "0" on anything. If you want 8's and faster, then the 4 link is most likely useful at that point. Lot's of money and fabrication. Just tring to help ya.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'm going to get cal-tracs eventually. I think I'll get her started up first. I would've got her started while I was home last but I had to go to NYC for a company meeting. Travel + meeting = 5 days of my time home.

I may change over to twin Holsets or Turbonetics if it looks like I won't be able to add a/c back. Get cts-v manifolds and run the turbos at the rear of the engine. When I was home I looked and thought that there may be enough room to do it that way.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Well I've been thinking and searching and have came to the conclusion that I'll completely remove all A/C components and weld up the firewall. Still have 20 days until I get home before I can do anything. (I just don't feel like spending the money and that a/c unit is dog ugly)

So, to you guys that have removed your a/c; what did you put in the place of your a/c control panel on your dash? I would like to put something there that could be useful, maybe a boost controller. I can use the dash vents for gauges.

Also to those who have gone from 3sp to 4sp auto; how hard was it to augment the original shifter and what did you have to get? Would it be better to just get lets say a quick silver or some other type shifter.

I don't think a ratcheting shifter will do much good with a transmission that shifts via ecm. If the tranny is programmed to shift at x rpm at WOT, what would be the point of a ratchet.

Going to put in an order with Denny's for a shaft set up; probably their nitrous shaft with 1350 uni. and get a 1350 pinion. I really like their warranty and the fact that if I ever change rears my shaft can be shortened for free.

My plan for gauges as is, is; Speedhut 4" Speedo, 4" Tach, and 2 1/16 fuel level. Using glowshift for other holes and a/c holes. Also plan on building a new console from aluminum and having more glowshift gauges built into it.

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

Good to see things moving along. I won't have ac in mine as well but, I will keep the heater part of it. You being in TN, I'd consider keeping that part if that was the plan. I know it sounds odd being in Florida but, I can deal with not having AC better than not having heat. Check out ACdelete.com for their delete cover. I was eyeballing Speedhut's gauges too. Let us know how you like them.