MillsMotorvation

I see you have the underdrive balancer, I have a small radiator, but my car heat up driving slow, but if I run 2600rpm it cools right down, I was thinking the bal dont turn the water pump as fast causing it to heat up. In fact at WOT my car will drop 15deg on a 1/4mi pass! LOL Going to install a bigger rad.

Cape T/A

Nice work! Twin turbos are gonna be a blast!

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Yeah have the trick flow balancer with alt pulley.. I only have a two row radiator, but it's all aluminum. I was going to stay with the factory balancer but I cracked it at some point..( I think when I was moving my engine whilst on the stand and one of the wheels caught and the damn thing fell over.. I had to replace the power steering pump and bent one of the original exaust manifolds.. It was a bad day for my temper I tell you.

I hope that my fans will assist, they're rated at 3k cfm's each.
I think that's more than enough, atleast I hope.

MillsMotorvation

I didnt use the alt pullie, maybe I should. I also have the 2row radi Got a single fan from a 97 cougar seems to work good. Im close on space up front. May have to do some cutting?

Adam123

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I recessed my radiator into the core support atleast an inch or better and had to cut the core support at the bottom for my lower fan to set flush. I welded some 1" aluminum flat bar to the top of my radiator and then drilled and bolted it to the top of the core support for stability. I will change the mount to a spring loaded rubber mount where it bolts to the core support for flexibility. Will also put rubber along where the bottom of the radiator rest inside the core support. With the radiator recessed, there is a lot of room between the engine and the radiator. I'd say from middle of radiator to water pump pully, around a foot maybe a tad more. I have around an inch between intercooler and radiator. I'm hoping that there won't be any heat soak between the two but wouldn't be suprised if there is. I'm hoping the fans correct that.

MillsMotorvation

I need to look at mine again, I have nowhere near that much room, maybe cause it got intercooler in there angled. What size is your intercooler? My friend said I will need a bigger one to run this new turbo 22/14, 3inch wide, I think. Didnt cut anything thats my problem! Im going to look at cutting to make room, but I need the hood latch.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

31"x11.75"x3" DELTA FIN Intercooler.
I Have room to go bigger.
I think I'll have to pin my hood not sure yet. I don't have a latch yet so I'll find out. I'd rather have the latch but I'll do a pinned hood if neccessary.
Thinking of getting a hood pin kit like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-RACING-Motor-Flush-Mount-Hood-Bonnet-Pin-Lock-Kit-KEY-LOCKING-UNIVERSAL-/251199633088?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7caa36c0&vxp=mtrThat way the hood can be locked at least.
If you look at my core support you'll see I hacked mine all to pieces. I'll add some support to it later before I start putting my front end back on.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Heres' a pic that I have of the core support. I used a side grinder with a 6" cutting wheel to cut it up.

MillsMotorvation

Dang you cut that up! I need to do the same, mybe then I can get below 4,000lbs.

Adam123

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Updated pics

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

more pic

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Some more, still can't figure out how to make pics bigger.

Adam123

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Well while I was home this last time I ran all fuel lines from the pump forward. I didn't have enough time to wait on a f2f 10AN adapter for pre-pump fuel filter.

Built a booster to pedal rod, bench bled master cylinder and bled brake lines. (I have to re-bleed rear brakes)

Cold side completely finished (unless I decide to ad meth)

Exhaust partially ran. Have to rework driver-side exhaust where wastegate band on exit side needs room for easier connect/disconnect.

Ordering -8 ss line for trans to cooler. Debating whether or not to run an oil cooler. What do you guys think?

Trying to figure out where to relocate my coils to and how long of an extension I'll need. Thinking of putting them on the front side of my fender wells. I don't know yet. Need to order plug wires for that length if I do.

Hood closes but can't put an air-filter on driver turbo unless I get a 4" 45 degree elbow to filter. The hood has around 1 inch clearance.

Still have to order my Wiring harness and tachometer.

I mounted and broke my $100 MAP so bought a cheap $29 map

I'm hoping to actually start the engine when I get home next time.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Is there a reason why I couldn't order a set of Taylor 45 degree universal plug wire kit and add ls1 coil boots to the kit to make it work when I relocate my coils?
When I do the math I can get plug wires and coil boots for $61.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Alright bought 8an lines for transmission to radiator to after cooler and back. Also bought a oil filter relocation kit from Summit along with an oil cooler. Decided I didn't like the way the truck harness rested on my engine so I bought a PSI harness. Also bought what I needed to finish my fuel system. Need to get plug wires and Coil extensions and hopefully I'll be able to start my engine... I'll be home on the 3rd of October and plan to put quite a few man hour in on the ole girl.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

Plug wires, coil extension harness, and grounding cables/straps purchased today. That should be enough to get the engine started when I get home. If everything goes well I'll be purchasing parts to build the rear end in February. Along with some Cal-Tracs. Hopefully by spring I'll have her in for paint.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Sweet project man. I have a second gen too with an LS1, and would like to add a turbo to mine as well. Looks great so far. What manifolds are you using? Are they the flipped up truck manifolds?

In order to add pictures you can either host them here on the site, or what I do is go through a third party hosting site like photobucket. Just copy the IMG code on the right side and paste the link. It should look something like this: [IMG/]www.photobucket[IMG]

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

So, I installed transmission lines and cooler. I also installed a Summit brand oil filter relocation kit with a cooler. I'll state that the quality isn't bad but this style kit isn't a good kit for a car with low ground clearance. The kit is more suited for a truck.

The 1/2" NPT barbed fittings that came with the kit made the hoses nearly touch the ground. So I went and got some hydraulic brass fittings and used AN hose to the relocated filter and cooler. Even with that the 90 degree and fitting still causes the hose to hang to low. Now I have to order a special Ea.rl's fitting that is nearly 50 bucks to bring the hose up.
This is the kit I got from summit http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/gr...15718_1000.jpg
or similar
This would have been a better alternative to the base that fits onto the oil filter mount
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Car-Auto-Oil-Filter-Relocation-Kit-Sandwich-Adapter-AN-10-Blue-PE98-/221293286070?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33861b92b6&vxp=mtrMay buy that for better mounting.
Will post pics later tomorrow

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

Very nice build! Now, I want turbos, dangit!

Regarding temperature control, radiators, fans and such, and keeping in mind that my engine is NA (so not exactly an apples to apples comparison), I got a single radiator fan out of a late 90s bonneville that easily keeps my engine below 190, even on hot days when I'm sitting in traffic. The radiator was chosen for price, weight reduction and cooling capacity, and is a plastic tank aluminum 2-core job from Rock Auto (I think model LU709). It has enough surface area to add a second fan if I wanted to. I didn't chop up my core support too badly, but I did replace everything in the bumper structure with aluminum. The car is stiffer in front, plus a total weight drop around 40 pounds -- more than enough to conpensate for the intercooler.

Adam123

iTrader: (1)

I believe I got a champion off of ebay. It's a 2 row, should cool enough. Have two 16 inch fans that are rated at nearly 3000 cfm's each.

Getting ready to start the engine/transmission harness I purchased from PSI. Now I have to start chasing down wires on the 79 engine harness and figuring out what they do so I know which to delete and which to keep. I don't plan on using any of the factory gauges so I know I can delete most of the sending unit wires since my new gauges come with their own. I think what I really have to do is find power in and keyed power and ignition to starter.