Can't figure out steering rack solution on odd swap...
10-24-2011, 07:00 PM
#41
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
When it comes to Subaru transmissions, I know a little about them 
The 5eat can handle a stock LS1 power level all day. I know, I've done it. Takes modifications, which my little 5eat modification company can handle since I already do them. It is an oddly stout transmission for the most part, if setup properly. It is tuned by Subaru to produce long, soft shifts, which are hell on the clutch packs, and in stock form it can't handle a whole lot, so you are half right.
STi 6MT has a helical TBD in front, and an electronic variable locking center diff. Rear, R180, take your pick of limited slip options. 6MT is VERY strong, used on 500whp STIs with only a different clutch. But it's $4000 to get into one, and my 5eat is already on the car, and mates well will Dallas traffic. I can always swap to 6MT later, if I don't push it off a cliff by then.
5mt is no good for big power.
The 5eat can handle a stock LS1 power level all day. I know, I've done it. Takes modifications, which my little 5eat modification company can handle since I already do them. It is an oddly stout transmission for the most part, if setup properly. It is tuned by Subaru to produce long, soft shifts, which are hell on the clutch packs, and in stock form it can't handle a whole lot, so you are half right.
STi 6MT has a helical TBD in front, and an electronic variable locking center diff. Rear, R180, take your pick of limited slip options. 6MT is VERY strong, used on 500whp STIs with only a different clutch. But it's $4000 to get into one, and my 5eat is already on the car, and mates well will Dallas traffic. I can always swap to 6MT later, if I don't push it off a cliff by then.
5mt is no good for big power.
10-25-2011, 03:10 PM
#42
Teching In
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I was referring to the 5sp manual I still have difficulty understanding why people like autos so I always think manual. Yes, I know a well setup 5eat can take tons of power I have heard of them taking 1000Hp on the strip. I would still do the six as it's easy.
When it comes to Subaru transmissions, I know a little about them
The 5eat can handle a stock LS1 power level all day. I know, I've done it. Takes modifications, which my little 5eat modification company can handle since I already do them. It is an oddly stout transmission for the most part, if setup properly. It is tuned by Subaru to produce long, soft shifts, which are hell on the clutch packs, and in stock form it can't handle a whole lot, so you are half right.
STi 6MT has a helical TBD in front, and an electronic variable locking center diff. Rear, R180, take your pick of limited slip options. 6MT is VERY strong, used on 500whp STIs with only a different clutch. But it's $4000 to get into one, and my 5eat is already on the car, and mates well will Dallas traffic. I can always swap to 6MT later, if I don't push it off a cliff by then.
5mt is no good for big power.
The 5eat can handle a stock LS1 power level all day. I know, I've done it. Takes modifications, which my little 5eat modification company can handle since I already do them. It is an oddly stout transmission for the most part, if setup properly. It is tuned by Subaru to produce long, soft shifts, which are hell on the clutch packs, and in stock form it can't handle a whole lot, so you are half right.
STi 6MT has a helical TBD in front, and an electronic variable locking center diff. Rear, R180, take your pick of limited slip options. 6MT is VERY strong, used on 500whp STIs with only a different clutch. But it's $4000 to get into one, and my 5eat is already on the car, and mates well will Dallas traffic. I can always swap to 6MT later, if I don't push it off a cliff by then.
5mt is no good for big power.
11-04-2011, 05:03 PM
#43
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
This solution is really growing on me. I need to space apart the lower control arm ball joint on the spindle to accommodate for what I intend to be a final 1" drop in ride height. That same 1" lowering should need to be applied to the outer tie rod ball joint on the spindle. But lowering the rack several more inches... call it 3 inches for sake of conversation... so the outer tie rod end ball joint would need to come down 4 total inches... Still a lot to learn.
11-04-2011, 07:28 PM
#44
So is this what you are going with? If so, how far out is that bar (the one that moves left to right with the motion of the rack) going to sit from the steering rack?
Like this!!!! Sort of. The tie rods mount to a bar offset of the steering rack axis, but would slide with the rack. The bar to which the inner tie rod joints are bolted would be shaped to sink back in towards the rack and this dodging the trans bellhousing, tucking in under the GTO oil pan, done... After confirming steering linkage will still clear axles.
Like this!!!! Sort of. The tie rods mount to a bar offset of the steering rack axis, but would slide with the rack. The bar to which the inner tie rod joints are bolted would be shaped to sink back in towards the rack and this dodging the trans bellhousing, tucking in under the GTO oil pan, done... After confirming steering linkage will still clear axles.
11-04-2011, 10:06 PM
#46
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Eh I won't know exactly what I'm doing for sure until the engine is in place and we see what it takes to get the hood to close. But simply lowering the rack vertically and supporting suspension geometry modifications should make the most sense.
I went for a ride in a C5 Z06 with headers/intake/exhaust this evening, was not impressed by the acceleration. It's going to take FI to justify any of this. Hopefully the Vette was faster than it felt.
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...rt-140053.html
http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=39901
I went for a ride in a C5 Z06 with headers/intake/exhaust this evening, was not impressed by the acceleration. It's going to take FI to justify any of this. Hopefully the Vette was faster than it felt.
http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=39901
