1969 Nova L33 swap
08-25-2016, 09:12 PM
#81
So after I got it started i had some issues with the the throttle.
I know it has been said many times before that Jon at PSI has great customer service. Well Gary there has been fantastic answering my questions. Long story short with the accelerator not working. Gary tells me they put a tune into the PCM for a 2006 Silverado. It should have been a tune for a 2005 Silverado. So I am gonna send it out to them to get it reprogrammed. Ill update when I get it back.
I know it has been said many times before that Jon at PSI has great customer service. Well Gary there has been fantastic answering my questions. Long story short with the accelerator not working. Gary tells me they put a tune into the PCM for a 2006 Silverado. It should have been a tune for a 2005 Silverado. So I am gonna send it out to them to get it reprogrammed. Ill update when I get it back.
08-25-2016, 09:12 PM
#82
Got the PCM back from PSI, pedal is still not responding correctly. Gary from PSI asked me for codes but I don't have a diagnostic scanner yet. I ordered one and it should be here tomorrow. He is leaning towards the MAF sensor at this point but wants to confirm with the any error codes. Anyone out there have any suggestions I could try?
08-25-2016, 09:14 PM
#83
Then the LS guru at Steves helped me out...
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirk69nova View Post
Got the PCM back from PSI, pedal is still not responding correctly. Gary from PSI asked me for codes but I don't have a diagnostic scanner yet. I ordered one and it should be here tomorrow. He is leaning towards the MAF sensor at this point but wants to confirm with the any error codes. Anyone out there have any suggestions I could try?
Unplug the MAF and see if it works. It should stay in open loop and respond.
Really going to need to see what codes it is setting to help dial it in.
T,
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirk69nova View Post
Got the PCM back from PSI, pedal is still not responding correctly. Gary from PSI asked me for codes but I don't have a diagnostic scanner yet. I ordered one and it should be here tomorrow. He is leaning towards the MAF sensor at this point but wants to confirm with the any error codes. Anyone out there have any suggestions I could try?
Unplug the MAF and see if it works. It should stay in open loop and respond.
Really going to need to see what codes it is setting to help dial it in.
T,
08-25-2016, 09:15 PM
#84
First thing I did was clear the following codes: p0120, p0220 and p1516. After I cleared them I started it and the pedal worked. But it only ran good for about 30 seconds then the pedal went away. Not completely though. The scanner showed it was idling at 930 RPMs or so but would rev to about 1200 RPMs and it seemed to miss. I checked the codes again and got the same three. When I cleared them again the pedal would not respond. That is where I am now.
I did try to unhook the MAF but it wouldn't run. It would fire for a second then die. Any suggestions? I am gonna call psi in the morning.
I did try to unhook the MAF but it wouldn't run. It would fire for a second then die. Any suggestions? I am gonna call psi in the morning.
08-25-2016, 09:22 PM
#85
The Pedal, PCM and TAC were purchased after the engine was purchased and are from a different truck than then engine. But the pedal ,PCM and TAC are from the same truck or so I was told by the seller. The part number of the TAC was confirmed to be correct by Gary at PSI and matches what their instructions call for. The pedal is the metal truck pedal and again Gary says it matches the tune he put in the PCM. As far as wiring, I am using a PSI harness. I did have to extend the wires to reach my MAF but I do have correct voltages. Purple has 12 volts, tan and black have 5 volts.
I have not talked with PSI yet but I got some more info. So here is the scenario. The ign is on and I have the three listed codes. The throttle blade does not move when I depress the pedal. I clear the codes and then the throttle blade works when I depress the pedal. Without turning the key off I turn the key to start the car. It starts and I have good throttle. It will stay like this for about 15 seconds then I lose the pedal. I checked the codes and I get the same three and again no throttle with the key on.
Something trips the codes when I turn the ign off and back on.
I had the day off yesterday so I was able to troubleshoot a little. Gary from PSI helped me figure out that the harness that was sent to me was for ls1/ls6 and not a vortec. He claimed we just had to rewire the TB plug. So I did what he asked and checked wire positions on the TAC module and pedal as well. He felt pretty confident I was good to go but unfortunately I still got the same codes; p0120, p0220, p1516. I also got an unusual code of p06?? My scanner said I need to purchase an additional GM add-on to give me the complete code. Gary told me that usually if a code starts with p06?? then that can mean PCM failure. He is stumped at this point and is gonna send out a new PCM. If that fixes the issues than my PCM is bad. If my issue is still there then maybe the pedal, TB or TAC module could be the culprits but I am told these three components rarely fail. I'll update after I get the new PCM.
I have not talked with PSI yet but I got some more info. So here is the scenario. The ign is on and I have the three listed codes. The throttle blade does not move when I depress the pedal. I clear the codes and then the throttle blade works when I depress the pedal. Without turning the key off I turn the key to start the car. It starts and I have good throttle. It will stay like this for about 15 seconds then I lose the pedal. I checked the codes and I get the same three and again no throttle with the key on.
Something trips the codes when I turn the ign off and back on.
I had the day off yesterday so I was able to troubleshoot a little. Gary from PSI helped me figure out that the harness that was sent to me was for ls1/ls6 and not a vortec. He claimed we just had to rewire the TB plug. So I did what he asked and checked wire positions on the TAC module and pedal as well. He felt pretty confident I was good to go but unfortunately I still got the same codes; p0120, p0220, p1516. I also got an unusual code of p06?? My scanner said I need to purchase an additional GM add-on to give me the complete code. Gary told me that usually if a code starts with p06?? then that can mean PCM failure. He is stumped at this point and is gonna send out a new PCM. If that fixes the issues than my PCM is bad. If my issue is still there then maybe the pedal, TB or TAC module could be the culprits but I am told these three components rarely fail. I'll update after I get the new PCM.
Unfortunately I don't have any spare LS parts. I really won't be out much if it is not the PCM. PSI had stated I could return it without issue if it doesn't work.
I bought a wireless obd2 reader off amazon and I am using the dash Dash Command app for my iPhone. Admittedly, it is not what I would recommend for someone with a good working knowledge of how engines relate to the PCM and all the sensors. But all I wanted it to do was read and clear codes. The code I got was specifically p60??. My app stated i need to upgrade to be able to read the final two digits of the code. I have no idea if I was being scammed to purchase the upgrade or not but I did not purchase it. If I were to do it again I'd probably purchase something better but with my lack of knowledge I couldn't justify spending much more than I did.
I bought a wireless obd2 reader off amazon and I am using the dash Dash Command app for my iPhone. Admittedly, it is not what I would recommend for someone with a good working knowledge of how engines relate to the PCM and all the sensors. But all I wanted it to do was read and clear codes. The code I got was specifically p60??. My app stated i need to upgrade to be able to read the final two digits of the code. I have no idea if I was being scammed to purchase the upgrade or not but I did not purchase it. If I were to do it again I'd probably purchase something better but with my lack of knowledge I couldn't justify spending much more than I did.
Unfortunately I don't have any spare LS parts. I really won't be out much if it is not the PCM. PSI had stated I could return it without issue if it doesn't work.
I bought a wireless obd2 reader off amazon and I am using the dash Dash Command app for my iPhone. Admittedly, it is not what I would recommend for someone with a good working knowledge of how engines relate to the PCM and all the sensors. But all I wanted it to do was read and clear codes. The code I got was specifically p60??. My app stated i need to upgrade to be able to read the final two digits of the code. I have no idea if I was being scammed to purchase the upgrade or not but I did not purchase it. If I were to do it again I'd probably purchase something better but with my lack of knowledge I couldn't justify spending much more than I did.
I bought a wireless obd2 reader off amazon and I am using the dash Dash Command app for my iPhone. Admittedly, it is not what I would recommend for someone with a good working knowledge of how engines relate to the PCM and all the sensors. But all I wanted it to do was read and clear codes. The code I got was specifically p60??. My app stated i need to upgrade to be able to read the final two digits of the code. I have no idea if I was being scammed to purchase the upgrade or not but I did not purchase it. If I were to do it again I'd probably purchase something better but with my lack of knowledge I couldn't justify spending much more than I did.
08-25-2016, 09:27 PM
#87
Here is a quick update. I got the rear rebuilt and had an Eaton Trutrak installed with 3:73 gears. I also upgraded to Global West l-16 multi leafs. I bought these locally a while ago. Here is a link from summit http://m.summitracing.com/parts/gls-l-16
Not too sure on the stance though. I love the look it gives but I am not too sure it will be very practical once I get it out on the road. It sits quite a bit lower than the old mono leafs. I will definitely have to bring the front down if I keep these leaf springs. Here is how low the back looks. It is being supported on jack stands under the axel so this should give me a good idea of ride height. Those are 15" wheels BTW.
Not too sure on the stance though. I love the look it gives but I am not too sure it will be very practical once I get it out on the road. It sits quite a bit lower than the old mono leafs. I will definitely have to bring the front down if I keep these leaf springs. Here is how low the back looks. It is being supported on jack stands under the axel so this should give me a good idea of ride height. Those are 15" wheels BTW.
08-25-2016, 09:27 PM
#88
Keep in mind this is coming from a guy who is used to driving a 2002 Voyager and a 2005 Sienna.
I got the exhaust installed which was actually very easy. I had been out in the Nova around the neighborhood just breaking in the rear. I really had not given it much more than 1/4 throttle and it was very darty as I had not had it aligned since having the subframe off and rebuilding the front suspension. I took it last Saturday morning and some old school dude gave me what he said was a proper alignment for my old car. Anyway, after the alignment it runs straight and true and is not darty anymore. I am driving home last Saturday morning and go through an intersection and there was nobody around so I floored it! The back tires just lit up in smoke and after I let off a bit the tires got grip it just took off! What a blast. I am so happy with this swap so far. It starts right up, idles great at about 550 rpm, have not checked the mileage yet.
Next on the list is to get the rear seat covered and finish putting the interior together. But I can drive it like it is so that will probably come next winter.
I got the exhaust installed which was actually very easy. I had been out in the Nova around the neighborhood just breaking in the rear. I really had not given it much more than 1/4 throttle and it was very darty as I had not had it aligned since having the subframe off and rebuilding the front suspension. I took it last Saturday morning and some old school dude gave me what he said was a proper alignment for my old car. Anyway, after the alignment it runs straight and true and is not darty anymore. I am driving home last Saturday morning and go through an intersection and there was nobody around so I floored it! The back tires just lit up in smoke and after I let off a bit the tires got grip it just took off! What a blast. I am so happy with this swap so far. It starts right up, idles great at about 550 rpm, have not checked the mileage yet.
Next on the list is to get the rear seat covered and finish putting the interior together. But I can drive it like it is so that will probably come next winter.
09-05-2016, 10:39 AM
#92
TECH Apprentice
Wow congratulations Kirk! Seeing this video was the inspiration i needed to get back in the garage and start finishing my Camaro project. Very happy for you and i look forward to more updates from the divers seat, 
Bottom line was that the TB was not working correctly and Tom sent me a used one he had. That fixed the problem and my car moved for the first time in over three years!
1969 Nova 5.3 moves for the first time in three years under its own power!! - YouTube
1969 Nova 5.3 moves for the first time in three years under its own power!! - YouTube
