EZwire universal chassis harness??
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EZwire universal chassis harness?? Anyone ever use the 21 circuit EZwire universal harness to upgrade their 40 year old wiring? I'm not paying $500+ for the AAW, M+H, or Painless kit since I won't use most of what those kits include. I was just planning on making my own when I came across the EZwire kits. Just want to know if you have done one was the wire gauge correct for your application, wires long enough, worth the money @ $180 etc... Kind of seems like a great deal to me but I just want to be sure.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Lots of guys on my street rod forums like the EZ harnesses due to the cost, they are good quality kits with the proper wire gauge, each wire marked for the circuit used along it's length. One of the common comments about the kits though is the lack of good instructions as compared to AAW or Painless. If you are experienced with wiring and are familiar with the circuits used in an automotive application, the bare bones EZ kits might be for you.
I've used the ex kit in the following cars and I have to say the fit and finish is EXCELLENT:
Drg radial 1999 trans am race car
1956 Chevy with swapped ls setup
1991 Camaro with lt1 and turbo street car
Drg radial 1999 trans am race car
1956 Chevy with swapped ls setup
1991 Camaro with lt1 and turbo street car
The kit I bought was wired for 1 input from the alternator feeding one end of the copper strip/fuse holder and 1 from the starter feeding the other end. I increased the gauge of the single feed wire from my engine harness (alternator) and used the other wire from what would have been the starter feed to power my fans/fuel pump/horn relay. This resulted in the current for those items flowig through the copper strip/fuse holder.
I discovered quickly that with both fans (Windstar) on, the coppwe strip/fuse holder would heat up. Changing the relays feed wire to the other source wire cured it. Just beware on any setup you can exceed the capabilities.
I discovered quickly that with both fans (Windstar) on, the coppwe strip/fuse holder would heat up. Changing the relays feed wire to the other source wire cured it. Just beware on any setup you can exceed the capabilities.
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Launching!
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Does anyone here know for sure if the wire gauges used in EZ Wire harnesses are smaller then American Autowires for the same circuits ??
Lower quality wire ?? I'm just trying to figure out how the hell they can do this for less then half the price.....
I had no idea they did this too. Might be looking into this instead of a 2nd AAW harness.
I just need to verify the wire gauges are the same and the wire quality isn't low grade.....
Lower quality wire ?? I'm just trying to figure out how the hell they can do this for less then half the price.....
I had no idea they did this too. Might be looking into this instead of a 2nd AAW harness.
I just need to verify the wire gauges are the same and the wire quality isn't low grade.....
Last edited by Aceshigh; Dec 28, 2011 at 07:06 AM.
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Thanks for the heads up garys68!
I did find another brand called kwikwire which is made in the USA, actually right here in Wisconsin. Its a few bucks more then EZ wire but it looks like that is now the one I will go with.
My understanding between these universal kits and the AAW harness is that the lower cost ones are just that, universal. AAW apparently will have all the correct connectors on the wires, whereas EZ, Kwik etc you either need to reuse your old connectors or buy new ones. Came across this company for inexpensive replacement connectors http://www.pcsconnectors.com/ AAW has better instructions I have read.
In my case being able to terminate my own wire ends is a bonus because there isn't much that will be stock by the time I'm done with my car.
I did find another brand called kwikwire which is made in the USA, actually right here in Wisconsin. Its a few bucks more then EZ wire but it looks like that is now the one I will go with.
My understanding between these universal kits and the AAW harness is that the lower cost ones are just that, universal. AAW apparently will have all the correct connectors on the wires, whereas EZ, Kwik etc you either need to reuse your old connectors or buy new ones. Came across this company for inexpensive replacement connectors http://www.pcsconnectors.com/ AAW has better instructions I have read.
In my case being able to terminate my own wire ends is a bonus because there isn't much that will be stock by the time I'm done with my car.
Not a bad way to go if you are not re-wiring your whole car. I looked at it, but went with the AAW Calssic Update series for several reasons. The fuse block mounted in the factory location, the kit inlcudes new dimmer switch, headlight switch, courtesy lights, console and dash wiring, all new GM connectors and there are fused connections in the fuseblock, for ECM, VSS, addiotnal 12v battery and ignition leads. Granted if you don't need this stuff its just extra $$, but I wanted to update everything. Just make sure your comparing apples to apples and not just based on price.
Also I didn't see the point of going through all the effort of replacing the harness only to re-use the 40+ year old connectors as this is normally the cause of many of your electrical gremlins. Also don't forget customer service. I have called AAW several times and there service is outstanding to say the least.
Also I didn't see the point of going through all the effort of replacing the harness only to re-use the 40+ year old connectors as this is normally the cause of many of your electrical gremlins. Also don't forget customer service. I have called AAW several times and there service is outstanding to say the least.
I have to agree with rocketrod on the "you get what you pay for" USUALLY not always, I am the type of person that doesn't mind paying premium prices for parts as long as they are what they say they are and I found out unfortunately usually that was not the case more often than not. By the time you source all the connectors and terminals and pay for shipping 3-4 times as you more than likely will have to get the stuff from several sources and when it arrives something inevitably is wrong or damaged. In my case time is money and I don't want my car down 3-4 weeks waiting on this or that, I am sure you have already found this to be the case in your engine swap. Good Luck on which ever route you choose
lizzec and Rocketrod hit the nail on the head. The higher cost will be as plug and play as possible with all new misc. parts.
In my case I was very happy with the 2 cheaper universals since I was going to be modifying them so much. Both mine were LSx swaps, aftermarket air, aftermarket mix of mechanical/electric gauges, combo of electric/mechanical cooling fans, elimination/addition of circuits. There was no point in getting an expensive plug and play harness, and I was pretty familiar wiring.
As a matter of fact I have made my own custom harnesses from scratch, but it's difficult to source just the materials for the price of the inexpensive universals.
Oh and now I've learned the current draw of big electric fans......
In my case I was very happy with the 2 cheaper universals since I was going to be modifying them so much. Both mine were LSx swaps, aftermarket air, aftermarket mix of mechanical/electric gauges, combo of electric/mechanical cooling fans, elimination/addition of circuits. There was no point in getting an expensive plug and play harness, and I was pretty familiar wiring.
As a matter of fact I have made my own custom harnesses from scratch, but it's difficult to source just the materials for the price of the inexpensive universals.
Oh and now I've learned the current draw of big electric fans......
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Garys68 hits the nail on the head with my situation as well. LSX swap, electric fans, speedhut gauges, power seats, basically the heater, wiper, and exterior lights will be considered "stock"
I will be replacing all the connectors with brand new Packard 56 and 59 series where they need to be used. You can buy them for under a dollar each from the site I listed above. I will also be buying new switches for the lights, high beams and ignition, and wipers, as well as possibly add a push start button... putting my headlight on relays instead of running all that current through the harness and switch etc.
I like that I can have the freedom to run the wire wherever I wish, I don't like seeing wires and this makes it easier to do that. This also gives me something to do now that winter is here and the car is parked for the next 4 months.
I do agree both style of kits have pros and cons in my situation the cheaper harness is better because I don't want to have to cut up the "factory correct" harness. I'm sure by the time its all said and done I will have close to $500 in the harness but it will be exactly how I want it. If I were doing a restoration instead of a resto-mod I would use the AAW kit no questions asked.
Garys68- you should look into doing a double relay setup for each electric fan so 4 relays total. http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml This guy talks about it on his site.
I will be replacing all the connectors with brand new Packard 56 and 59 series where they need to be used. You can buy them for under a dollar each from the site I listed above. I will also be buying new switches for the lights, high beams and ignition, and wipers, as well as possibly add a push start button... putting my headlight on relays instead of running all that current through the harness and switch etc.
I like that I can have the freedom to run the wire wherever I wish, I don't like seeing wires and this makes it easier to do that. This also gives me something to do now that winter is here and the car is parked for the next 4 months.
I do agree both style of kits have pros and cons in my situation the cheaper harness is better because I don't want to have to cut up the "factory correct" harness. I'm sure by the time its all said and done I will have close to $500 in the harness but it will be exactly how I want it. If I were doing a restoration instead of a resto-mod I would use the AAW kit no questions asked.
Garys68- you should look into doing a double relay setup for each electric fan so 4 relays total. http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml This guy talks about it on his site.
I'm actually running one fan off the ecu. The other fan is running off the AC trinary switch AND an optional variable temp switch.
Seems to work well even on all the 100 degree days we had this summer.
Btw, a good soure and great prices for multiple relay boxes, temp controls, weather pack connectors, etc
http://haywireinc.com/catalog/produc...07d6d85i4nspl3
Seems to work well even on all the 100 degree days we had this summer.
Btw, a good soure and great prices for multiple relay boxes, temp controls, weather pack connectors, etc
http://haywireinc.com/catalog/produc...07d6d85i4nspl3
The harnesses for a restoration, which is a true plug n play harness are much more than $500, closer to $1000 (or more). The Classic Update series I mention is for resto-mods. I am just glad to see you are making an informed decision and not solely on price. Make sure you post plenty of pics of your re-wire.
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Thanks for the link Gary!
I have read that some of the kits from M+H are in that $1k-2K range
I'll keep my build updated, never know who is looking and getting some help from it! I can't imagine how anyone ever built some of these cars back in the "pre-internet" days... LOL.
I have read that some of the kits from M+H are in that $1k-2K range
I'll keep my build updated, never know who is looking and getting some help from it! I can't imagine how anyone ever built some of these cars back in the "pre-internet" days... LOL. 
Launching!
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EZ-wire uses TXL wire which is the lowest grade automotive wire most OEM manufacturers use. http://www.kayjayco.com/catPWireSelect.htm
American Autowire uses GXL grade wire (See #8) http://shop.americanautowire.com/hig...wiringkit.aspx
EZ wires instructions are NOT newbie friendly. Same problem as Painless Harness. So some experience is required here.
On the flipside, American Autowires are so simple any electrical newbie can do it. (Trust me here, first hand experience)
Another point is that on most Pro-touring or higher end forum where people have more $$$ to blow.
9 out of 10 recommend American Autowire > EZ-wire. (Just sharing what I've seen)
Also, certified quality with the copper buss in the fuse panel and wires ??
Do we know that this is the same in EZ-wire VS American Autowire ??
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BTW I've done a Highway 22 kit from American Autowire already.
Those don't come with the OEM connectors as they are deemed "Universal kits" also.
Quality is higher IMO then Painless without a doubt.
I bought a Weatherpack connector bulk kit for $80 and used those from Casper Electronics (better anyways)
AAW HIghway kits are ~$100 less then the Classic Update kits.
I'm just testing the waters for a possible EZ-wire purchase now that I have enough
experience to figure it out with the crappy instructions. LOL
Last edited by Aceshigh; Dec 28, 2011 at 08:43 PM.
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Aces good info you have there. Maybe check out the KwikWire product. They use the GXL wire that the more expensive kits use. This kit falls right in the middle at $280. The main reason I'm going Kwikwire vs Ez is because they are a real American Co and the harness is made right at their shop in WI and not overseas somewhere.