GNIUS's LS6 G35 Build
02-13-2012, 09:41 PM
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GNIUS's LS6 G35 Build (Screen Name: Rambo on the G/Z forums)
Well my engine is burning oil so I decided to replace it with a new one. I am building a 400+hp LS6. Had this on G35Driver for a while so I thought I would catch everyone up as LS1tech has been a huge resource. Thanks Everyone for solid build input!!
So far my build setup is as follows:
1. 01' LS1 Longblock ($650) - Just checked the casting numbers. I have an LS6 block!! About 15% of the blocks in 01 fbodies were ls6 castings. I am exited.
2. 243 heads ($350)
3. Mahle Power Piston Pack ($425 - new bought from someone on LS1TECH)
4. ARP Main Studs - $180
5. Clevite 77 Cam Bearings - $35
6. All block and head machine work, Rotating Assembly Balanced, Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, and ARP Rod Bolts - $1335 (Huck's Machine Shop in Cincinnati, OH - Highly Recommended)
7. ARP Balancer Bolt - $25
8. LS2 90MM TB - $125 new (best ebay find ever!)
9. LS2 Intake and Fuel Rails - $250 (purchased from VAS_33 on LS1tech, going from Z to G)
Total so far: $3375
Just got it up on the engine stand today to inspect...
Dirty Pistons:
Clean Piston (4 down, 4 to go):
After I finish cleaning the last 4, next step is to press out the wrist pins. I am going to reuse the stock rods.
243 heads from an LS2. I am going to clean these up, polish, and put some high lift springs and comp cams trunion upgraded rockers. I think it will go nicely with a phat cam...
mmm....new pistons!!!!
Installed new ARP Main Studs today!
Old stock main bolts out.
Dropped in the new studs.
All done. Ready for the machine shop!!!
Time for an update.
Total list of things Huck's Machine Shop did for me:
1. Clean Block, Valves, Valve Covers, and Heads
2. Inspect and Deck heads flat
3. Magnaflux Crank, Grind, and polish
4. Inspect block
5. Bore, hone, and match block to pistons
6. Recondition stock rods with ARP bolts
7. Assemble rods and pistons with pressed in wrist pins (THEY DID IT FOR FREE!!)
8. Replace cam bearings
9. Full balance of rotating assembly
10. Ground flywheel (THEY DID IT FOR FREE!!)
11. Furnished Main and Rod bearings
Final machine shop cost with ARP rod bolt, main bearings, and rod bearings: $1335.41
Time for pics:
Freshly Cleaned, Bored, Honed Block:
Is that Chevy Red-Orange I see:
Why yes, yes it is:
Fresh Parts!!!
Piston Assemblies:
New Piston Assembly with ARP Rod bolts and MAHLE Pistons:
Freshly Ground and Balanced Crank:
Cleaned and decked heads:
I also got the fly wheel, rod, and main bearings. Time for short block assembly to begin....
New micrometers for verifying clearances. New bore gauge is on the way!!
JEGS SENT ME THE BORE GAUGE WITH MISSING PARTS!!!! WTF!! (Finally got a new one)
Just bought a piston ring filer and a ring compressor tool. Lets see if they come in with all the pieces
Just picked up a new LS2 90mm TB for my build. I will be upgrading the LS6 to alot of the LS2 stuff. $125 bucks new - Ebay find of the century
OK. Time for an update.
Lower main bearings installed in the main caps.
Upper main bearings installed in the block.
Erica's first attempt at taking a picture of me micing in the main bearings, pretty cool shot though:
Me micing in the main bearings. .001"-.002" clearance all around. Yeah!!
All main bearings checked out to .001"-.002" clearance. She is ready for the crankshaft.
A little assembly lube on the upper main bearings.
A little more assembly lube on the lower main bearings.
Dropped the crankshaft in!!
Main caps installed and everything torqued down. She turns freely. Next step is to check end play.
[
Thats all for today. I am still waiting on my ring grinder and ring compressor. Should be here later this week.
New ARP Balancer Bolt is in!! Should be assembling the pistons in the short block this weekend.
Decided 50 bucks was way too much to spend for a piston ring squaring tool. So i made one. Turned out great, not bad for $FREE.99
Checked crankshaft end play. Looks good. I also finally got the piston rod bolts loosed up so I can start assembly of the bearings
Well my engine is burning oil so I decided to replace it with a new one. I am building a 400+hp LS6. Had this on G35Driver for a while so I thought I would catch everyone up as LS1tech has been a huge resource. Thanks Everyone for solid build input!!
So far my build setup is as follows:
1. 01' LS1 Longblock ($650) - Just checked the casting numbers. I have an LS6 block!! About 15% of the blocks in 01 fbodies were ls6 castings. I am exited.
2. 243 heads ($350)
3. Mahle Power Piston Pack ($425 - new bought from someone on LS1TECH)
4. ARP Main Studs - $180
5. Clevite 77 Cam Bearings - $35
6. All block and head machine work, Rotating Assembly Balanced, Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, and ARP Rod Bolts - $1335 (Huck's Machine Shop in Cincinnati, OH - Highly Recommended)
7. ARP Balancer Bolt - $25
8. LS2 90MM TB - $125 new (best ebay find ever!)
9. LS2 Intake and Fuel Rails - $250 (purchased from VAS_33 on LS1tech, going from Z to G)
Total so far: $3375
Just got it up on the engine stand today to inspect...
Dirty Pistons:
Clean Piston (4 down, 4 to go):
After I finish cleaning the last 4, next step is to press out the wrist pins. I am going to reuse the stock rods.
243 heads from an LS2. I am going to clean these up, polish, and put some high lift springs and comp cams trunion upgraded rockers. I think it will go nicely with a phat cam...
mmm....new pistons!!!!
Installed new ARP Main Studs today!
Old stock main bolts out.
Dropped in the new studs.
All done. Ready for the machine shop!!!
Time for an update.
Total list of things Huck's Machine Shop did for me:
1. Clean Block, Valves, Valve Covers, and Heads
2. Inspect and Deck heads flat
3. Magnaflux Crank, Grind, and polish
4. Inspect block
5. Bore, hone, and match block to pistons
6. Recondition stock rods with ARP bolts
7. Assemble rods and pistons with pressed in wrist pins (THEY DID IT FOR FREE!!)
8. Replace cam bearings
9. Full balance of rotating assembly
10. Ground flywheel (THEY DID IT FOR FREE!!)
11. Furnished Main and Rod bearings
Final machine shop cost with ARP rod bolt, main bearings, and rod bearings: $1335.41
Time for pics:
Freshly Cleaned, Bored, Honed Block:
Is that Chevy Red-Orange I see:
Why yes, yes it is:
Fresh Parts!!!
Piston Assemblies:
New Piston Assembly with ARP Rod bolts and MAHLE Pistons:
Freshly Ground and Balanced Crank:
Cleaned and decked heads:
I also got the fly wheel, rod, and main bearings. Time for short block assembly to begin....
New micrometers for verifying clearances. New bore gauge is on the way!!
JEGS SENT ME THE BORE GAUGE WITH MISSING PARTS!!!! WTF!! (Finally got a new one)
Just bought a piston ring filer and a ring compressor tool. Lets see if they come in with all the pieces
Just picked up a new LS2 90mm TB for my build. I will be upgrading the LS6 to alot of the LS2 stuff. $125 bucks new - Ebay find of the century
OK. Time for an update.
Lower main bearings installed in the main caps.
Upper main bearings installed in the block.
Erica's first attempt at taking a picture of me micing in the main bearings, pretty cool shot though:
Me micing in the main bearings. .001"-.002" clearance all around. Yeah!!
All main bearings checked out to .001"-.002" clearance. She is ready for the crankshaft.
A little assembly lube on the upper main bearings.
A little more assembly lube on the lower main bearings.
Dropped the crankshaft in!!
Main caps installed and everything torqued down. She turns freely. Next step is to check end play.
[
Thats all for today. I am still waiting on my ring grinder and ring compressor. Should be here later this week.
New ARP Balancer Bolt is in!! Should be assembling the pistons in the short block this weekend.
Decided 50 bucks was way too much to spend for a piston ring squaring tool. So i made one. Turned out great, not bad for $FREE.99
Checked crankshaft end play. Looks good. I also finally got the piston rod bolts loosed up so I can start assembly of the bearings
02-13-2012, 09:42 PM
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Time for an update!!
The rod bearings and connecting rod/piston assembly.
Dropped in the rod bearings.
Bearings are ready for clearance inspection. Seven more to go...
All the Piston/Rod assemblies ready for rings.
My piston ring squaring tool works!!
Piston ring #3 all gapped up and ready to go.
The full piston assembly rings, rods, bearings, and pistons. The whole caboodle ready for assembly.
Piston rings installed.
After a ***** of time figuring out how to get my ring compressor working correctly (wouldnt close all the way) on piston #1 the rest dropped in nicely.
Bottom end all buttoned up!
ARP Rod bolt close up!
All Pistons In!!! Time to find a cam!!!
btw this build is sponsored by budwieser. 5 hrs of working on a motor cannot be had without a few cans of beer.
The rod bearings and connecting rod/piston assembly.
Dropped in the rod bearings.
Bearings are ready for clearance inspection. Seven more to go...
All the Piston/Rod assemblies ready for rings.
My piston ring squaring tool works!!
Piston ring #3 all gapped up and ready to go.
The full piston assembly rings, rods, bearings, and pistons. The whole caboodle ready for assembly.
Piston rings installed.
After a ***** of time figuring out how to get my ring compressor working correctly (wouldnt close all the way) on piston #1 the rest dropped in nicely.
Bottom end all buttoned up!
ARP Rod bolt close up!
All Pistons In!!! Time to find a cam!!!
btw this build is sponsored by budwieser. 5 hrs of working on a motor cannot be had without a few cans of beer.
02-14-2012, 08:35 AM
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I don't get it It's all very nice & fun. What I don't get is why do all that work, spend all that money & end up with a rebuid old engine, with many old parts.
For $6K to 8k you can order a brand NEW & COMPLETE G.M. crate engine, 6.2 liter & up to 525 hp. Comes with a warrenty & is availible TODAY.
For $6K to 8k you can order a brand NEW & COMPLETE G.M. crate engine, 6.2 liter & up to 525 hp. Comes with a warrenty & is availible TODAY.
02-14-2012, 09:22 AM
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What will you learn from buying a crate motor? The way he is doing he will be able to understand if something goes wrong (hope it doesnt BTW). Or if he ever needs to change something or wants to make an upgrade I can go on... There are more pros to building your own motor than cons if you ask me. Even if you screw up.
02-14-2012, 09:33 AM
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What will you learn from buying a crate motor? The way he is doing he will be able to understand if something goes wrong (hope it doesnt BTW). Or if he ever needs to change something or wants to make an upgrade I can go on... There are more pros to building your own motor than cons if you ask me. Even if you screw up.
02-14-2012, 10:01 AM
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Next year at this time, he'll have 12k+ in it & trying to figure out why it doesn't start, or why the engine has no power, making noises, & or burning oil. It's stupid to re-build an engine & with old parts & limitted experience, & take months & spend as much money or more as getting a brand new/profesionaly build/latest version ls engine.
02-14-2012, 10:16 AM
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Ever heard the term "built not bought"? For alot of us its a pride thing also. To know that "I did it" means more to some than others. Ill let the OP say why he is doing it this way and not speak for him but I will say that I would do it just like he is (referring to rebuilding and not buying a crate motor)
Also if you think he will have $8k in his long block with the parts he has chosen you are nuts....
Also if you think he will have $8k in his long block with the parts he has chosen you are nuts....
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02-14-2012, 11:41 AM
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Ever heard the term "built not bought"? For alot of us its a pride thing also. To know that "I did it" means more to some than others. Ill let the OP say why he is doing it this way and not speak for him but I will say that I would do it just like he is (referring to rebuilding and not buying a crate motor)
Also if you think he will have $8k in his long block with the parts he has chosen you are nuts....
Also if you think he will have $8k in his long block with the parts he has chosen you are nuts....
When he gets the rest of the parts, & installs them, he'll be at the 8k ++++ level. Maybe 10k, still old & old design/heads/pistons etc...
It may fail anyway. If it does run & does't break, it still produce only very modest HP. Lucky if he produces more HP than a stock Nissan HR V6. A simple & very cheap swap.
02-14-2012, 11:55 AM
#11
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Way to go two eyes!!
You have succeeded in:
A) Trashing/Dumping on a guys nice build thread...
B) Continuing to add more and more small stupid/redundant posts instead of editing any you have already made...
C) Questioning the purpose of building an engine in an area on the forum designed to show engine builds/car builds...
OP nice build, your G35 should be a lot of fun when its done!
You have succeeded in:
A) Trashing/Dumping on a guys nice build thread...
B) Continuing to add more and more small stupid/redundant posts instead of editing any you have already made...
C) Questioning the purpose of building an engine in an area on the forum designed to show engine builds/car builds...
OP nice build, your G35 should be a lot of fun when its done!
02-14-2012, 12:06 PM
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Way to go two eyes!!
You have succeeded in:
A) Trashing/Dumping on a guys nice build thread...
B) Continuing to add more and more small stupid/redundant posts instead of editing any you have already made...
C) Questioning the purpose of building an engine in an area on the forum designed to show engine builds/car builds...
OP nice build, your G35 should be a lot of fun when its done!
You have succeeded in:
A) Trashing/Dumping on a guys nice build thread...
B) Continuing to add more and more small stupid/redundant posts instead of editing any you have already made...
C) Questioning the purpose of building an engine in an area on the forum designed to show engine builds/car builds...
OP nice build, your G35 should be a lot of fun when its done!
I'll be back next year to see what stage of build op is at....
02-14-2012, 12:44 PM
#14
02-14-2012, 02:29 PM
#16
It's all very nice & fun. What I don't get is why do all that work, spend all that money & end up with a rebuid old engine, with many old parts.
For $6K to 8k you can order a brand NEW & COMPLETE G.M. crate engine, 6.2 liter & up to 525 hp. Comes with a warrenty & is availible TODAY.
For $6K to 8k you can order a brand NEW & COMPLETE G.M. crate engine, 6.2 liter & up to 525 hp. Comes with a warrenty & is availible TODAY.
OP don't let this guy rain on your parade. Looking forward to more pics. This is a cool swap.
02-14-2012, 02:37 PM
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Just re-read the post. I'm wrong, made a mistake. He's using new pistons & good heads. Also checked clearances. I'm not that smart or cool, that's why I'm wrong in this case. Wish him good luck....
02-14-2012, 05:59 PM
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The only thing I am re using is the rods, crank, and block. All of which have been refreshed (for arp fastners), block bored out to spec, and the crank polished (all within acceptable GM rebuild tolerances). I am going to have to give credit to Hucks Machine Shop in Cincinnati, as all clearances have checked in GREAT!!!
All other parts are new, and the crank and rods are more than adequate for my goals. I am not interested in building a straight line boosted or nitrous car. I want all N/A power so I can get into road racing. A boosted VQ has more problems than its worth and doing this swap is about the same cost as a build VQ and turbo setup, plus it would be much more reliable.
As far as my background, I am an engineer. I have done almost all work on my cars from the time I could hold a wrench. I have swapped top ends of motors and swaped motors. I have never built a motor before, but it is not hard to build a motor (or anything) with the proper tools (which I have invested in) and the proper research (which this site has alot of good info if you read enough). All it comes down to is checking everything not once but twice.
In the end, I am just doing this because I simply want to and want to learn and build an american V8 (I have always loved vettes, and you have to start somewhere). I am budgeting about 5k for the motor and another 5-6 for the swap (trans, ecu, and swap hardware). I am shooting for 420hp at the wheels with stock 243 heads. After the swap, and I have everything running I plan on getting a fast set up and ported TB and heads.
Other than that, I need to now find a cam (this has seriously been the hardest part). I plan on using a C5R single roller to reduce unsprung weight in the rotating assembly while keeping a good strong setup. After that I will be getting all LS2 sensors and will be running an E40 ECU if I can find one (hint hint to anyone who reads this!!)
I am trying to take lots of pictures so that other people can see how everything goes together and maybe it helps other people out somewhere some how.
So if anyone has any good advice I am all open. Especially if you notice anything wrong or weird, It is much easier to fix it now. Thanks again guys!!
All other parts are new, and the crank and rods are more than adequate for my goals. I am not interested in building a straight line boosted or nitrous car. I want all N/A power so I can get into road racing. A boosted VQ has more problems than its worth and doing this swap is about the same cost as a build VQ and turbo setup, plus it would be much more reliable.
As far as my background, I am an engineer. I have done almost all work on my cars from the time I could hold a wrench. I have swapped top ends of motors and swaped motors. I have never built a motor before, but it is not hard to build a motor (or anything) with the proper tools (which I have invested in) and the proper research (which this site has alot of good info if you read enough). All it comes down to is checking everything not once but twice.
In the end, I am just doing this because I simply want to and want to learn and build an american V8 (I have always loved vettes, and you have to start somewhere). I am budgeting about 5k for the motor and another 5-6 for the swap (trans, ecu, and swap hardware). I am shooting for 420hp at the wheels with stock 243 heads. After the swap, and I have everything running I plan on getting a fast set up and ported TB and heads.
Other than that, I need to now find a cam (this has seriously been the hardest part). I plan on using a C5R single roller to reduce unsprung weight in the rotating assembly while keeping a good strong setup. After that I will be getting all LS2 sensors and will be running an E40 ECU if I can find one (hint hint to anyone who reads this!!)
I am trying to take lots of pictures so that other people can see how everything goes together and maybe it helps other people out somewhere some how.
So if anyone has any good advice I am all open. Especially if you notice anything wrong or weird, It is much easier to fix it now. Thanks again guys!!
02-14-2012, 06:48 PM
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LS6 Block?!?!?! I should have charged more! Feel free to paypal the difference. In all seriousness, I'm glad to see thats its being put to good use and that the project is going well. I will be following this build.
In all seriousness, I'm glad to see thats its being put to good use and that the project is going well. I will be following this build.
02-14-2012, 06:58 PM
#20
05-06 GTO or 05-07 Corvette will be your best bet for a donor harness and ECU. Make sure you get the DBW pedal at the same time. I've got a bunch of wiring schematics for the 05-06 GTO I can share if you decide to go that route.