superdave84

No real updates to report. I have been doing boring bodywork, and it's not worthy of pictures yet. Coming along well though. Got the other drip rail all done I think, fixed a hole in the door, filled in the emblem holes on the trunk and the keyhole too. Also doing pretty extensive work to the front valance (the part under the front bumper), cleaning it up and ditching all the trim, filling the holes, including the license plate holes.

I am also going to dive in and flush mount the front and rear windows. Delete the trim, raise the glass about 1/3", and fill in the gap around the window to close it in some.

Thanks I am definitley still looking for something to power the heater thingy. I will definitely check them out. Thank you

In regards to the power, it might not be some kind of powerhouse, but the car is about 1,200 lbs lighter than the truck it came out of, so I think it will be ok....untill I can get my hands on a more powerful LS motor

So what will you do with the F-body pan then? I know my GMPP Hotrod pan hangs lower than I would like. If the F-body is significantly shorter, I might buy it off you. As it stands now though, my headers hang lowest, so I won't be scraping the pan unless I do something really stupid (and I NEVER do anything stupid!) I plan to run airbags, but man, it's already pretty close to the ground and I haven't even lowered it yet. I can only afford to drop it about 1.5" right now, and that only gives me 3" from header to asphalt.

Oh, I was sitting here thinking as I typed, and you might want to load the engine bay with engine weight as you check your clearance. I would hate for you to drop it in and find that the loaded suspension causes the linkage to hit the pan.

nothngbtagthng

iTrader: (2)

just subscribed.. killer job

Killer66

iTrader: (4)

The fbody pan sits on top of the steering linkage, I'll send u a pic when I get home this evening.

Killer66

iTrader: (4)

Super Dave, here is the pic that shows how the oil pan sits in the engine bay. See how the pan will sit above the frame and steering linkage.

superdave84

I see that, but I would think without the weight of the engine in the bay, the suspension is not loaded, and so the linkage will probably sit higher than it does in the pic and maybe give you clearance issues. I would put the engine in and check

superdave84

So I pulled the rear window out. Some heartless owner before me had caulked all around the window with what looked like bathroom caulk from Home Depot. I have to admit I was afraid to deal with the issue, thinking there would be extensive rust damage (you could easily see lots of rust on the package shelf inside the car). But I got very lucky and there was nothing but surface rust. Everything back there is solid as a rock, just ugly. Whew.

So, in my quest to eliminate all chrome and strim from the car, I am about to take on flush mounting the front and rear glass. For anyone who has not heard of it, it's basically raising the glass up, and then adding some metal around the opening to close up the gap a little. Take a look at the picture below:



What you see marked with green is the ledge the glass sits on. This ledge will have new metal welded on top of it (either 1/4" or 1/8", not sure about all the measurements yet). This raises the glass up closer to the level of the surrounding body

In red you see where I will add in metal to "cinch" in around the window to narrow the gap. Right now it's about 1/4", so I will probably use 1/8" round rod, bent to conform to the body, and then do bodywork to blend the rod out. This will give me a nice, rounded, consistant ridge all the way around the window.

Circled in blue is the bathroom caulk that was holding the window in. There was still some window rubber between the shelf and the glass, but the sun and other weather had deteriorated it to a point where the window basically just popped out after a little scraping and pushing.

So, if I haven't bored you by this point, you're still reading and you're probably wondering about how the rubber is supposed to seal and not deteriorate under the sunlight. Well, raising the shelf does not affect the seal, as long as everything is welded up and any voids are filled with metal or a small amount of fiberglass. Since the whole window is raised the same amount, there are no issues with the geometry changing.

"But Dave," you ask, "won't you be able to see the ugly rubbery glue stuff through the glass?"

Yes, good question. Modern windows have a blackened area to hide the glue. I can't do that exactly, but I can get some 3M vinyl (the kind used for stripes, ect, like I used to cover my vent windows) and cover the entire outside of the window. Then I will make a little cutting tool that will ride along the edge of the glass, scouring a perfect line all around the edge of the window. Then when I remove the center section, I will be left with a black rim all around the window, hiding the glue and protecting it from the sun.

For the front window, it's the same method. Should be a really cool way to modernize the car....and I knwo you guys are all abot modernizing these old hot rods or you wouldn't be on this site!

Lots more interesting pics to come. I hope I can inspire some of you to try this too.

There are no Impalas I can find with flush windows, but here's a look at some Camaros with it done:

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

The flush mount glass will be a neat addition but it only works on certain cars or builds. I like the look when done properly.

2lazy4agoodname

Very nice build. Can't wait to see the finished product!

blowdry

Nice! Keep the pics up! Thx Superdave!

Killer66

iTrader: (4)

Super Dave, you and I think alike. I'll be watching, thanks...

Patdade

Dave - Nice work on your Impala. I like the shaved door handles. Your dash came out good.
Keep up the good work!!

superdave84

Hi all!

The holidays have kept me busy, but here's a little something for you to chew on.





Spacers added to check for fit



1/8" flat stock shaped to fit the ledge and then tacked in place









3/16" round rod added to close the gap around the window some







Entire channel filled with fiberglass to seal everythign up and prevent rust from ever having the chance to form (hopefully!)



Beginning of bodywork. Pretty minimal. I think even IIIIII can do it in two coats.





So far I only have about 10 hours in the whole flush mounting project. Much less than I expected. And you pros can probably do it in half the time.

TypeSL2

iTrader: (2)

Looking great man. Can't wait to see the final product.

James

FLYNAVY30

iTrader: (1)

subscribed...awesome project!!

superdave84

Painted the glass shelf yesterday in preparation for glass install, and also painted the bodywork I did. WOW I am terrible at bodywork. Hopefully the flaws are small enough not to show up on camera! Before paint, I will have someone with more skill than me go over the car.

Glass is back from the tint shop so I will hopfully install and post a few pics for you guys later on today.

Capown

iTrader: (5)

I love threads like this!! Great job Dave, I'm really digging the Dash and flush window idea. I recently pushed my LS swap 67 LeMans out to pasture for a LS swap 93 Mustang coupe. My friend just posted a thread on his 70 ElCamino that sparked my intrest again in the Lemans. I may have the Mustang sold that will fund finishing my 67. I'm really wanting to try the front flush window and make my own dash like yours!

Thanks for more inspiration and the great ideas keep it up.

94LT1TA6spd

Wow, great project man, just read through it. The dash is killer for sure!
Nice work!

superdave84

Thanks guys! I'm glad you're liking the build as much as I am....although I wish it was faster and cheaper haha.

Here's some pics from the window install today:

Glass shelf painted with primer and then High Gloss Enamel paint


Here's a pic of the window sealer stuff laid on the shelf


Here's the rear glass, tinted and ready to install. I actually had to sand the edges a bit because they were a little uneven from the factory (original 1965 glass)


Here's the car with bodywork done and ready for the glass


And finally, the glass installed




If you look close, the gap is not quite perfect all the way around. The upper driver's side is a little bit bigger than the gaps elsewhere. The rod that I welded in was perfectly aligned with the car, and exactly 3/16" all the way around, so I am thinking that the glass is about 1/8" off up in that corner. I will address that issue before final paint....but the window is in! I think it looks great. I still need to apply a 1" border of 3M vinyl all around the perimeter to protect the sealer and also to hide some milky spots on the ancient glass.

Very modern, sleek and classy if you ask me.

EDIT: Here's a side-by-side (top-by-bottom?) comparison of a stock back window vs. mine.

TypeSL2

iTrader: (2)

That looks great man. Definitely a project well worth the effort.

James

superdave84

Found some parts left over.......anyone know what all this stuff is?