ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

I'm not familiar with the ASD relay in a Jeep, you would have to get a Jeep service manual and some schematics to see if it would be possible. I have used an inertia switch from a Ford, the kind with the red reset button on top, that trips under impact. It's probably the easiest one to use since it just goes in line between the relay and the pump. I know it works because when I was building the car I bumped it hard enough to trip it, then spent about a half hour trying to figure out why the fuel pump wasn't coming on the next time I tried to start it! Doh!

jeeptester

I have read about the ford switch, is that the same on a 99 or so mustang? I agree the ford switch might be better as the Jeep ASD relay is more complicated. And like they say on builds "KISS Keep it simple stupid" approach .
I will check at the salvage yard tomorrow , Im going after some heat shielding and another AC line . Trying to get the AC working the Chevy Jeep Clone AC is fighting me. I almost had it but the custom hose failed. :-(

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure what a Mustang would have, but it's probably the same. Mine came off an late 80's-early 90's LTD. Explorers around 2000 have a similar one as well, and have an extra wire that goes to a light on the dash that comes on when tripped, and I'm pretty sure you could just wire it to any kind of light bulb.

Sorry to hear about your A/C line. How did it fail?

jeeptester

I had custom ends put on the GM hoses to adapt to the Jeep AC And of course the one hardest to get to, "The high pressure line right next to the frame notch I made" was leaking , I couldn't tell for sure but putting my hand over the hose made the sound change so its the hose,

I'll prob have to pull the comp again just to get it off. I knew something was up being I couldn't pull as good a vac as I usually can, and when I was charging the low side would fall fast to 0 as the high side was reaching 100 psi. Im sure it was just a bad hose, it was were the metal line was crimped onto the hose, and not the new end. I thought about changing to the denso adapter and go with a generic hose like I did on the suction side. I called the adapter place and they are out of those adapters for an unknown time. So I guess Im back to modding a OEM hose.

bigchief52780

iTrader: (10)

walbro 255 as of now and still having problems

jeeptester

What year is engine? Assuming stock EFI?

Im not really an expert but,

IMO first do a pressure test, that will tell you if its really a poor flow issue. (It could be electronic issue) It sucks to fix the wrong stuff.


Let us know

jeeptester

Man I looked all over the junk yard for the Ford truck switch. Finally found one out of a Mustang. The only thing I was unsure about was if the break the ground to the fuel relay or if the switch could handle the amps to break the hot to the pump. Breaking the hot would prob be better, but decided to go the safe route and break the ground. Here is how it turned out. For simplicity I just mounted it beside the fuel relay

bigchief52780

iTrader: (10)

09 escalade l92 6.2 all stock. engine is pretty much same as ls3.

jeeptester

do you have access to pressure test gauge?

Is the walbro in tank or in line?

bigchief52780

iTrader: (10)

gauge is on the fpr under the hood. it is an intank pump.

jeeptester

Whats PSI falling to at WOT? 0 or ____

bigchief52780

iTrader: (10)

haven't had time to check it.

jeeptester

Well I swapped the pump today to one rated at 90psi (its the pump only oem Chevy silverado) Yep does the same thing stumble at WOT at about 2nd or 3rd gear from rolling start. I guess I need to run me a test light into the cab so I can see if the elec signal to the pump is shutting off.

But something else,,,, if its a fuel starve issue should it do it also in park?? I can press the pedal to the floor and it will rev up fine and holds at a high rpm (I dont hold it long but it feels like it would stay high as long as I held the gas)

Ideas?
Thanks

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

If it's a fuel starvation problem from the fuel running away from the pump, then no, it shouldn't do it in park. You aren't hitting the rev limiter by chance are you?

jeeptester

IDK it acts just like that though. Im going to pull it back out as the test might be invalid as I noticed now it takes longer to start after sitting. (leaking down) On top of the pump there is a tube that slides onto the the main line and the top of the pump with a spring around it. On the pump I took out it was pretty snug fit, on the new pump it felt a little looser. Im thinking I might be loosing pressure there. And if its leaking down then it could also be loosing pressure a WOT right ? I may try to either split the tube a little at the lower end and install a hose clamp around it to put a tighter clamp of the tube to the pump, or remove the tube and install a fuel tank rated hose. The only problem with both those ideas are , the tube is inside a can about 3 1/2 diameter. NO way to get my hand in there. I would like to do the rubber line as it would be the most fool proof.

bellow are old pics of orriginal install
here is a pic of the tube bottom right


tube on pump


Any ideas

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Read this thread, post #22, this is what I would use. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...culptit-2.html The ethanol in gas these days will kill a rubber hose in a gas tank, I just had it happen, luckily the car made it home and my pump is easy to get out.

jeeptester

I may use that line when I build the next ver pump assembly

I took the GM pump out and did away with the sliding tube on top of the pump and just ran the rubber hose with clamp to eliminate possible leak down location. and still falls to 0 psi very fast. So Id rather it start good and still have WOT thing til I just build another pump assembly. So I put the oem TJ pump back in . It starts better than the GM pump but not as good as before I swapped it. So the fuel line tube must not be seating correctly is only thing Im thinking on it. Im thinking Ill just go ahead and build a separate complete swap pump assembly using a spare top housing. The only thing is I would like to do away with the can that surrounds the pump but Im unsure what affect that would have. Do you know what that can around the pump really does? I know even in the OEM the fuel return dumped right in the can. The mod version I did dumps it in there as well. I figured its a way to keep the fuel supplied to the pump if low and on a hill or something, or maybe a keep the pump cool thing IDK. But if I could do away with it then the pump filter and connections would be way easier to get to.

here is a link to the OEM assembly to see the can Im working with. I removed the regulator at the top and ran a return that dumps into the top of the can. Behind the corvette filter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuel-Pump-Gas-With-Sending-Unit-Jeep-Wrangler-TJ-2002-2001-2000-99-98-97-/370838761312?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1997%7CModel%3AWrangler&hash=item5657b66f60&vxp=mtr