Crank bolt
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#10
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My motor was on the stand, wedged a huge screwdriver in the flexplate (be careful not to bend it) then took my $7 Harborfreight 1/2" breaker bar and attached a 18" pipe to it, and voila, it came off. Getting the pulley off is another matter itself.
#11
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Using the right tools makes the job a lot easier.
Flywheel stop to hold the motor is a nice tool:
![](http://www.etoolcart.com/images/products/display/J42386A.1.jpg)
I made one
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap287.JPG)
If the engine is in the car and you have a manual, you can lock the ebrake and put it in a high (5th/6th) gear to keep the engine from rotating.
Then use a cheater bar for removing the bolt
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap289.JPG)
And a3-jaw puller for getting the pulley off
![](http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/images/LY6swap/ly6swap293.JPG)
Here you can see where the jaws should be pulling from - there are three recessed areas cast into the pulley for this purpose.
Flywheel stop to hold the motor is a nice tool:
![](http://www.etoolcart.com/images/products/display/J42386A.1.jpg)
I made one
If the engine is in the car and you have a manual, you can lock the ebrake and put it in a high (5th/6th) gear to keep the engine from rotating.
Then use a cheater bar for removing the bolt
And a3-jaw puller for getting the pulley off
Here you can see where the jaws should be pulling from - there are three recessed areas cast into the pulley for this purpose.
#19
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Heat the head of the bolt long enough so the heat tranfers down the bolt. Heat will loosen loctite or any thread sealer. I work on alot of Harleys and they loctite everything and that always works.
Last edited by builder1; 05-03-2012 at 08:29 PM.