Crank bolt
Just make sure you're using a strong breaker bar! I have snapped a couple 1/2 inchers in the past.
I've used the starter bump trick a few times in the past with success. Just be very careful with that one.
I've used the starter bump trick a few times in the past with success. Just be very careful with that one.
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My motor was on the stand, wedged a huge screwdriver in the flexplate (be careful not to bend it) then took my $7 Harborfreight 1/2" breaker bar and attached a 18" pipe to it, and voila, it came off. Getting the pulley off is another matter itself.
Using the right tools makes the job a lot easier.
Flywheel stop to hold the motor is a nice tool:
I made one
If the engine is in the car and you have a manual, you can lock the ebrake and put it in a high (5th/6th) gear to keep the engine from rotating.
Then use a cheater bar for removing the bolt
And a3-jaw puller for getting the pulley off
Here you can see where the jaws should be pulling from - there are three recessed areas cast into the pulley for this purpose.
Flywheel stop to hold the motor is a nice tool:
I made one
If the engine is in the car and you have a manual, you can lock the ebrake and put it in a high (5th/6th) gear to keep the engine from rotating.
Then use a cheater bar for removing the bolt
And a3-jaw puller for getting the pulley off
Here you can see where the jaws should be pulling from - there are three recessed areas cast into the pulley for this purpose.
Heat the head of the bolt long enough so the heat tranfers down the bolt. Heat will loosen loctite or any thread sealer. I work on alot of Harleys and they loctite everything and that always works.
Last edited by builder1; May 3, 2012 at 08:29 PM.
X2.. I fought with it for hours one time, put a little heat to it and it came off with a a little tap of the 4lb shorty sledge..