myersprostatus

Hey guys. I have a couple questions(well i gues more than a couple) regarding a ls1 swap into my 2000 mustang gt. Ive searched all day a couldn't really find a concrete guide on my ideal swap. Ive found a few things such as knowing I will need a new k-member and a new harness for the cluster. I have many questions as to is there a plug and play harness for using the stock cluster/engine harness? Can I mate the ls1 to my stock t45 transmission? Ive read I could maintain the a/c by modifying the stock lines to accommodate the GM lines. Also what exhaust manifold I could use to fit onto the mustangs already existing exhaust h-pipe. All in all I want to get this thing started, I just want to start this swap at the most efficient and cost effective way. Any fellow members who have done the swap on the new edge stangs and feel as though they could lead me in the right way. Your information is very appreciated.
I was also wondering if anyone has done this swap and has a 100% california smog legal vehicle. Kinda sucks I live in the most emission restricted state for how much I love tinkering with cars...

Anways sorry for being a n00b, I just keep finding information on swaps done in the foxbody mustangs. Again, thanks alot for any information provided, i truly appreciated it!
-Mitch

BadAzzStang

I have swapped a couple of new edge v6 to 4.6 and 5.4 ford v8s but i can give some insight.

I think that QA1 was making a k member for the sn95 body style with LSX motor mount pads on it.

The T45 is probably not going to be able to be used on the LSX being that it was only in the mustang. That bell housing is 4.6 specific and is not removable like the only t5 units. Im sure that someone could make a adpator plate but in my opinion why spend money on a adapter plate for a fairly weak transmission. The Transmission can be beefed up to be a very stout transmission but it might be more cost effective to get a T56. You will want to take into consideration oh how you are going to run this engine and what kind of speed sensor the engine management unit is going to use.

The gauge cluster in the sn95 its linked to the keys and the ECU. so you might be able to get it to work but most likely you are going to have to change out to something like an autometer setup.

Remember that the fuel system in the sn95 is returnless and most engine management systems you might use are most likely going to use return style set up. You might have to change out your returnless style set up to return style.

Thats some stuff i can think of off the top of my head.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

99-up F-bodies are returnless and you'll see mention of a lot of people using the C5 vette regulator / filter assembly, so keep reading up on that.

Yeah, any transmission can be mated to any engine but the T45 is weaker. It wouldn't be worth the fabrication expense to accomplish it.

Chrome_Rust

iTrader: (4)

I have not done this swap, but I have researched and talked to many people on the topic, I am currently swapping in a 5.3 in my 93 Notchback. I will list in order the tings I feel that you need to make this swap happen, also what I would to do make the factory gauges read correctly. Also you will need some tuning software, I recomment HP Tuners but there are other options out there. You can send your ECM out to have it flashed to remove the VATS, change the Tach output signal (stock ECM output a 4cyl signal) and and many other options. I hope this will help.

Kmember: You do not need to change out the Kmember to do this swap. You can use your stock 4.6 mounts with some adaptor plates found at many vendors here. It makes it harder to package headers and what not, but better in my book for a street car.

Wiring/Gauges: You have a few options as far as this goes. One being that you can take a factory harness and modify it to your needs. This is very time consuming and labor intensive (this is the route I chose). A second option is have someone else modify your harness. Third is to buy an aftermarket harness. Folks at PSI conversions or LT1swap.com can help you there. They also offer tuning. Most aftermarket harnesses are only compatible with the GM 411 ECM's. As for your gauges, they are controlled by fords EEC-V engine management. You can not make them work easily with out it. My suggestions is to leave the factory computer in the car to run the gauges, A/C and what not. To make the gauges work, you are going to use some of the factory engine harness to connect to the ford sensors that you are going to place in the respective locations. You are going to need the Oil pressure sensor and water temp sensor. The oil pressure can be located at the back of the block or you can drill and tap the block off plate near the oil filter for the ford pressure sensor. As for the water temp sensor, you may have to find a sutable location in one of the radiator hoses ot heater lines with an adaptor. For the Tach, you will go to the factory ECM location in the passenger kick panel, locate pin 48 from the factory ECU cut it and give it a V8 tach signal. As for the speedo, you will have a few options depending on transmission used. You will be unable to use your factory T45. You dont want to anyway. If you stay with manual you can use a T56. If you go auto, you can almost choose any auto offered by GM (Powerglide, TH350, TH400, TH700R4, TH2004R, 4L60, 4L60E....) I will assume you are going to to auto and choose a 4L60E. This would also apply if you are going T56, sensors will give the same style signal. You are going to use the factory ford harness again but the VSS connection that plugs into the tailshaft speed sensor on your T45. You are going to also need the VSS from the 4L60's rear sensor, but leave the wires intact. Using a Dakota Digital SIG-5 you are going to tap into the GM signal, and input that to the DD SIG-5 from the there you are going to cut the factory plug from the ford harness and output from the DD SIG-5 to the ECM through the factory VSS wiring. GM uses a 4k pulse per mile signal and ford uses an 8k PPM signal. That box will change the signal so the ford ECM can make sense of it.

Exhaust: You are more then likely running short style or factory manifolds on your 4.6. You can adapt a set of2010 camaro manifolds to your application. fab work will need done, but this will get you in the ball park. Kooks and Dynatech make headers for this application, but I don't know if they are CARB exempt.

Fuel systems: You can run returnless with no issue, but you are going to need more fuel pressure then the factory mustang setup can provide. I recommend going with a pre-98 tank (94-97 are return style, and 98 is a weird year...), using your factory sender, utlize an aftermarket 255LPH pump, and a corvette filter/regulator (Fuel in, return, and a single 58psi feed out) and then adapting the existing single feed line to the LS1 rail. Needless to say the LS1 needs 58lbs of fuel pressure.

Hope this helps, and If you have anymore questions, I will try to answer them as best as I can.

Charlie

usdmholden

There are differences in SN95 clusters throughout the years.

94/95 are mostly analog with electric speedo, no ECM input to gauges

96/97 are mostly analog with electric speedo, no ECM input to gauges, different pinout than 94/95

98 is an oddball, it's still mostly analog but it takes some ECM input, it may be the fuel level sensor, but I can't remember what the input is, different pinout than previous years

99+ are some form of serial data but I don't know what protocol is, other people have made them work, search the forum

tired2valve

the stock fuel pressures are about 32 psi at idle and about 45 at WOT.. but just putting intank walbro 255 and inline fpr in and regulate it to 58psi would work, yes!? 58 psi is 58psi returnless or not.

Chrome_Rust

iTrader: (4)

In theory, yes. But what I was saying was use a tank setup for retuenless so you can install the corvette FPR easier. Then from the outlet of the FPR to the stock retuenless fueline that run to the engine compartment. outback, you take the inlet and the return from the FPR and connect them to their respective locations on the pre 98 tank.

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

AJE K-member was pretty nice, i went and met them guys and they all seemed pretty darn knowledgeable and even answered a few questions via email on a sunday, cant beat that IMO.

Sorry i dont have any advice on doing it the way you are doing it. Best of luck, look forward to your build thread.

tired2valve

true, but if you have a returnless system wouldnt it be easier to do what i said above? unless you get the parts for near dirt cheap or allready have it.
im just saying because i have a 99 im doing the same and i have returnless system.
i went with the aje k member, look well built and i havent found one negative review on them.

Chrome_Rust

iTrader: (4)

@ tired2valve

Yes the 99 is returnless. But by what means are you going to regulate the pressure? Ford uses a fuel pump driver module that monitors rail pressure and adjusts pump voltage to maintain constant pressure. Using the stock setup would not allow you to adjust voltage or pressure to what you need. And simply installing a larger pump will not work. You need to be able to adjust the pressure and then have a way to send the unused fuel back to the tank. Or in fords case, they drop pump voltage to regulate pressure.
Just installing a "dead head" style regulator will not work. It will continue to build pressure because the unused fuel has no place to go.

tired2valve

oh ok, that was my whole dibacle with that idea. i didnt know if i could just buy a adjustable fuel pressure regulator and have itset at 58psi without it causing any problems.
i guess a trip to the junkyard is in order thisweekend

Chrome_Rust

iTrader: (4)

Glad to help sort that out for you. I was not trying to be arrogant with my posts.

tired2valve

i understand that. the whole fuel pressure is fuel pressure either way thing was what i thought would work.

99MUSTANG5.3L

I did this swap to my 01 Mustang. I did not read all the posts here,but I am willing to help you out if I can. Ask any questions you have.

Here is a short list of what I used;

AJE k member
stock control arms
vette regulator/filter
used the stock fuel line as my return and ran a new 3/8" line for feed
made my own trans mount and motor mounts
used an 8.8" rear from a 96 mustang gt
Roush rear lower control arms
stock driveshaft with a Precision conversion joint and Chevy slip yoke
Mustang shorty headers w/ LS1 flanges welded on
Chevy truck cats w/ Mustang cat back
Gauges--currently running a Bully Dog Watchdog monitor, eventually gonna swap in a cluster from a 94 Mustang.

Chrome_Rust

iTrader: (4)

If you read my LONNNNGGGGGG post, i explain how to make the factory gauges work. PM me if you want more info.

Flywheel1967

Good day all love the help posts In here. and to Chrome_Rust thanks great info I have completed my second swap this on was on a 2002 Mustang had 3.8 got the car very cheep. did the swap went well and earler said the guys at AJE were very help full too made the job well very easy!!! the only thing not working at this time is the tac. but all is good and running I would be happy to answer any questions .

parts used

2003 5.3 motor and trans from LKQ u pull it $500.
computer and harness LKQ $100.
AJE kmember with spring mount and trans mount
corvett fuel filter
Note I pulled the slip yoke off the drive shaft when I pulled the motor and trans put it back on the trans got it for free !!!
now for the good part the u joint is the same joint 2002 ford mustang
now for the shifter factory floor shifter for now. and used a 2005 cable It pops right on the GM lever. the most expensive part headders I went with the Dynatech made it very easy and clean install . Runs great !!! I hope this helps other's too thanks again