86 L92 Notch
86 L92 Notch This is my build. I have an 86 Notch Mustang that I picked up for $650. It already had a rebuilt 8.8 posi with 4:10 gears, welded in subframe connecters, a Walboro 255 in tank, Lakewood 90/10's up front and Lakewood 50/50's in the rear,and a 4 core rad with dual electric fans. Since I purchased it, I installed an AJE tubular k member, did a 5 lug upgrade, added a coil over kit in the front, along with a set of Ford Racing lower control arm in the front with poly greasable bushings. It also came with a set of 351w fox body 1 3/4" headers which I cut the flanges off and added LS flanges for some budget swap headers. I also bought some 18" Zenetti's from a local on Craigslist for $100. One had very slight curb rash, which I filed down before I had them painted from all white, to black with a red lip
I next took a running and complete 6.0L LQ4 I purchased from a local yard for $650, tore it down, sold the stock 317 heads, sent it to the machine shop to have it decked, honed and cleaned up a bit. Then I rebuilt it in my basement over the winter. I also purchased a set of new L92 heads off a guy for $425, a like new LS3 intake with injectors and rails from the shop that did my machine work for $125, and we moved the water pump outlet on my truck pump to the front boss like the F-bodies at my work. The L92's I hand ported. They came out really good. I also found a guy on Craigslist selling a Livernois Motorsport LS cam and got it for $75!!!
Heads ported! I know they flow enough already. This is more or less a street car so its ok it I don't gain 50 hp! I do hope to stroke the motor eventually, and thats when the port job will show itself. I bid on a set of Manley dual LS springs and won them for $80. I paid $300 for a new Edelbrock 90mm tb from Summit. I had the tp and iac sensors already. I picked up a TH400 for $175, did the work to it myself, and followed Jakes Performance online directions on making a shift kit. I pick up a 3500 stall for cheap. I reworked the factory harness using some videos on youtube and the diagram from LT1swap.com. I sent my stock pcm, which I purchased from a local u-pull-it for $28, to Frost to get a mail order tune($200). I agree with all the other on the site concerning his work. Great customer service and it fired up the first time and found a good idle. I was able to use a T5 driveshaft with a 400 yoke and a combination u-joint. Driveshaft was free, yoke plus u-joint was $60.
Last edited by gols1go; Jun 4, 2012 at 04:35 AM.
The AJE was for a 5.0. You guessed it. It was brand new, but it was the original one with the fixed motor mount for a 5.0/5.8. I used some 4.6 mounts and a plate to attatch them to the block, and for $150 I got a tubular k member. The Ford Racing lower control arms I got for my set of 4 lug pony wheels that I couldn't use any more anyways because of the 5 lug swap.
Now time to put the motor and tranny in. Fits perfect. So did the exhaust header on the driver side. The headers are MAC 351 longtubes. The steering shaft went right thru the primaries just like it would have if this was a sbf. But the passenger side had to have a few tubes moved. Cost me $125 to get the passenger side together with labor and materials. I mounted the heads once the engine was in the car.
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No I do not. But I do know that it was a conversion u-joint 1310 to 1330. Your conversion u-joint will depend on your driveshaft and yoke. A good driveshaft shop is your best bet to getting it right the first time.
CORRECTION: Its a 1310 to 1350 u-joint
Spicer Ujoint 1310 To 1350 Conversion Part# 5-460x
CORRECTION: Its a 1310 to 1350 u-joint
Spicer Ujoint 1310 To 1350 Conversion Part# 5-460x
Last edited by gols1go; Jun 4, 2012 at 02:01 AM.
Today I added a oil catch can to the pcv system just for preventive measures. From what I have read, these motor have some oil consumption issues, so I just wanted to be safe. I ran a 3/8" hose from the passenger valve cover to the can, then from the can to the air inlet tube behind the MAF sensor. I still need to wire in the data link connecter under the dash. I also plan to run the hot when start wire from the column to the solenoid on the starter, and not use the factory starter solenoid on the fender. That will give me something to do tomorrow, along with connecting the shifter cable to the transmission. I have had it running, but haven't made any vids yet. Thats also on my to do list.
Last edited by gols1go; May 31, 2012 at 08:30 PM.
Thanks! Here's a few pics I took today after I mounted the wheels. I need a paint job like yesterday, but it'll come in time. I still need to make it to the exhaust shop to get it all buttoned up. I also need to order a throttle cable and fab up a bracket of some sort. I have the fuel rail covers, which I already had to modify so the truck alternater and bracket would fit. I am hoping not to have to cut on the passenger side.
New throttle cable ordered today. Set me back $18 on Ebay. Looks just like the Lokar cable. In fact, another member on the forum had used this exact cable and said it worked perfectly. Can't wait to install it! I will have to fab up a bracket, but that shouldn't be hard. Any advice from others who have had to do this???
Also picked up some new toe rod ends, brake shoes, wheel cylinders, and the holddown hardware from RockAuto. Might as well get as much done as I can.
Also picked up some new toe rod ends, brake shoes, wheel cylinders, and the holddown hardware from RockAuto. Might as well get as much done as I can.
