L33 Valkyrie, 1800 LBS 310 horse 330 FPT death machine
06-19-2012, 02:18 AM
#21
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IVe wondered the same thing actually.
They are not welded like that, the plates on either side have a series of mouning points, the one on the left is mounted as high as it goes when the one on the right is like 2 holes from the bottom. it sits level as it is, I was going to wait until it was under load to decide whether to adjust it.
They are not welded like that, the plates on either side have a series of mouning points, the one on the left is mounted as high as it goes when the one on the right is like 2 holes from the bottom. it sits level as it is, I was going to wait until it was under load to decide whether to adjust it.
06-20-2012, 05:19 AM
#22
Maybe there are different spring rates on the rear so they need to be at different heights to put the vehicle level. That would be a really odd way of setting up your rear suspension though. You never know what you get when you take over someone else's project.
06-20-2012, 09:19 PM
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My guess would be some one took it apart and then put it back together wrong, and once I get the motor in I should be able to tell if the one needs to go up, or if the other needs to go down.
The motor arrived today, I have the harness off, and I tell ya, I am definitely thinking of having it converted to stand alone, it is very intimidating.
The motor arrived today, I have the harness off, and I tell ya, I am definitely thinking of having it converted to stand alone, it is very intimidating.
06-23-2012, 03:38 AM
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Picked up all the clutch type parts, escept the flywheel bolts DOH!
Hope to start the clutch install tomorrow.
The 5.3 truck intake is about the UGLIEST thing ive ever seen. I knew it was bad, but I didn't know it was THAT bad, and mine is going to be under a great big glass window.
No way it can stay like that.
Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket fuel rail that will fit on the LS1 intake but accept the 5.3's injectors? or know where I can find the adapters to make the truck injectors fit the LS1 rail? I can get an ls1 intake pretty cheap, and I dont need al lthe low end power of the truck intake or ls6 so the LS1 is a good swap for me, however the price starts getting up there when you have to swap the intake injectors and rail.
Also, my intake will be mounted backwards, so no TB to water pump clearance issues.
Hope to start the clutch install tomorrow.
The 5.3 truck intake is about the UGLIEST thing ive ever seen. I knew it was bad, but I didn't know it was THAT bad, and mine is going to be under a great big glass window.
No way it can stay like that.
Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket fuel rail that will fit on the LS1 intake but accept the 5.3's injectors? or know where I can find the adapters to make the truck injectors fit the LS1 rail? I can get an ls1 intake pretty cheap, and I dont need al lthe low end power of the truck intake or ls6 so the LS1 is a good swap for me, however the price starts getting up there when you have to swap the intake injectors and rail.
Also, my intake will be mounted backwards, so no TB to water pump clearance issues.
06-23-2012, 05:41 AM
#26
Truck injectors fit the LS1 intake by removing the plastic tip. Flex fuel injectors are a direct fit. The truck injectors are too short to fit with the LS1 rail. You can use the truck rail or any aftermarket rail with custom hold downs.
See this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...s6-intake.html
See this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...s6-intake.html
06-23-2012, 07:25 PM
#28
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Gocart eh?
Ive taken the intake off, and without it, the motor looks puny. I may try to do a "smoothing" on it instead of a swap, the large truck intake gives the motor an intimidateing almost military feel. It looks like a monster!
Oil pan is only about 5 inches or less off the ground without the full weight of the motor or body... may have to buy an oil pan.... don't want to!
Front of the motor is sitting on a jack, I need to figure out how to mount it. fabrication used to be my strong suit, but thats when i had some one else's tools, it gets spendy to build by trial and error when you have to pay a machine shop.
Have failed to find a machine shop to remove the bolts from my flywheel, some for "safety" reasons and some for "you didnt buy it here" reasons, I have considered drilling holes for the pins but im not sure how bad that might screw up the balance? Seems that if I could get the holes in the right spot it would be ok, but I dont have the tools or skill, Id imagine id end up with two egg shaped holes.
How much does balance matter on a flywheel that wont see more then 5500 rpm?
Ive taken the intake off, and without it, the motor looks puny. I may try to do a "smoothing" on it instead of a swap, the large truck intake gives the motor an intimidateing almost military feel. It looks like a monster!
Oil pan is only about 5 inches or less off the ground without the full weight of the motor or body... may have to buy an oil pan.... don't want to!
Front of the motor is sitting on a jack, I need to figure out how to mount it. fabrication used to be my strong suit, but thats when i had some one else's tools, it gets spendy to build by trial and error when you have to pay a machine shop.
Have failed to find a machine shop to remove the bolts from my flywheel, some for "safety" reasons and some for "you didnt buy it here" reasons, I have considered drilling holes for the pins but im not sure how bad that might screw up the balance? Seems that if I could get the holes in the right spot it would be ok, but I dont have the tools or skill, Id imagine id end up with two egg shaped holes.
How much does balance matter on a flywheel that wont see more then 5500 rpm?
Last edited by Crazier; 06-23-2012 at 08:15 PM.
06-23-2012, 10:36 PM
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Current plan is to have the manifolds coated black, and the manifold covers sprayed red.
BUT a lot of these cars that Ive seen done use lake style (I think that's how they say it)
or even up[side down headers to get the exhaust up so that it doesn't have to run under the trailing arms and axle shafts, so I am guessing I wont know how to run the exhaust until all the weight is on it. anyone have any suggestions?
BUT a lot of these cars that Ive seen done use lake style (I think that's how they say it)
or even up[side down headers to get the exhaust up so that it doesn't have to run under the trailing arms and axle shafts, so I am guessing I wont know how to run the exhaust until all the weight is on it. anyone have any suggestions?
06-24-2012, 01:01 AM
#32
Get a pliers and just pull the pins out.
You might need to enlarge 3 holes in the pressure plate. Only enlarge them enough to barely fit the bolts. That will keep it centered. If you're worried, you can have that balanced.
And if you're using the truck pan, my guess is it will be way too deep.
You might need to enlarge 3 holes in the pressure plate. Only enlarge them enough to barely fit the bolts. That will keep it centered. If you're worried, you can have that balanced.
And if you're using the truck pan, my guess is it will be way too deep.
Last edited by garys 68; 06-24-2012 at 07:42 AM.
06-24-2012, 01:49 PM
#34
As for setting up the harness stand alone this is what I suggest. Take all the loom off the harness and plug in all the sensors that you will be using. That will help you determine what you need and what you don't. Then just start removing what you don't until you make your way back to the ECM connector. Download the ECM pinouts so that you can figure out what wires need to go to the dash. The 12V constant and 12 ignition wires are easy to sort out. It really isn't that hard, just time consuming.
06-24-2012, 05:19 PM
#35
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Found a guy on ebay doing the stand alone conversion for 225, and since to me it is the most intimidateing part of the swap I have decided it is worth the two bills.
I am haveing trouble enough with the motor mounts.
I am haveing trouble enough with the motor mounts.
06-24-2012, 09:34 PM
#37
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The listing says
"I will rewire your ls1,ls6,ls2 ,5.3,5.7 ,6.0, lt1 , harness for standalone operation. all splices soldered and heat shrink. if you dont have the relays and fuse block with fuses i will provide it. everything labeled and re wraped . i wire all the relays for the fan ,injectors ,fuel pump,all you have to do is run wire to fuel pump and fan.any missing plugs are extra no more than 12.00 each installed. you will have to pay shipping here and back.i also flash ecms
ecm flash is 100.00
obd2 port is free
if you do the harness and ecm combo i will do a performance tune for free"
He has all good feedback, so hopefully its a good job. I only have so many days left on the engine warranty and that was my final decision point. I want it in the car and running be the end of next month and there are only so many things I can do at once.
I wont have any of the body stuff done, and I am going to have to rig up an ignition and a fuel system, but I should be able to have it bolted in and running.
"I will rewire your ls1,ls6,ls2 ,5.3,5.7 ,6.0, lt1 , harness for standalone operation. all splices soldered and heat shrink. if you dont have the relays and fuse block with fuses i will provide it. everything labeled and re wraped . i wire all the relays for the fan ,injectors ,fuel pump,all you have to do is run wire to fuel pump and fan.any missing plugs are extra no more than 12.00 each installed. you will have to pay shipping here and back.i also flash ecms
ecm flash is 100.00
obd2 port is free
if you do the harness and ecm combo i will do a performance tune for free"
He has all good feedback, so hopefully its a good job. I only have so many days left on the engine warranty and that was my final decision point. I want it in the car and running be the end of next month and there are only so many things I can do at once.
I wont have any of the body stuff done, and I am going to have to rig up an ignition and a fuel system, but I should be able to have it bolted in and running.
06-24-2012, 11:09 PM
#39
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Wires scare me. and I am new. This is my first project in 17 years, and I never attempted anything even close to this big before.
Once I get it running I can drive it to your place and you can help me tune it right
Once I get it running I can drive it to your place and you can help me tune it right
06-25-2012, 12:16 AM
#40
Haha whatever's on your mind..lol..been tuning all kinds of stuff..
The wiring really is pretty easy..like really easy. Follow the first post as a guide.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...o-lt1-car.html
The wiring really is pretty easy..like really easy. Follow the first post as a guide.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...o-lt1-car.html