Rebuilding Dad's Panoz; LS1 swap
#81
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All that tedious work was worth it. Car turned out fantastic thanks to Precision Powdercoating (www.precision-powder-coat.com)
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Redid the swaybar arms as well as painting the engine mount adapters and tie rod sleeves.
Derustifying
Derustified
Nothing like freshly BBQ'd car parts (engine mount adapters, tie rod end sleeves, swaybar arms)...
Fresh off the grill done in 2000 degree Rustoleum
Derustifying
Derustified
Nothing like freshly BBQ'd car parts (engine mount adapters, tie rod end sleeves, swaybar arms)...
Fresh off the grill done in 2000 degree Rustoleum
#84
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Spent the weekend restoring rest of the front suspension components. A wire wheel on my bench grinder made quick work of removing the old paint. Cleaned and painted with 2000 degree primer then 2000 degree "flat aluminum" paint. Baked everything I could fit on the grill to cure. Will post a few more shots when the suspension is all together.
Before on the left, stripped on the right...
After
Suspension coming together. New balljoints and a mixture of new and cleaned up hardware. I love my wirewheel
Before on the left, stripped on the right...
After
Suspension coming together. New balljoints and a mixture of new and cleaned up hardware. I love my wirewheel
Last edited by Cobra4B; 01-08-2013 at 02:08 PM.
#86
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In 2007 Panoz sold off the racing school operations to Barber Motorsports. Barber races Mazdas and switched to Miatas for the schools. As such, all the Panoz school cars went up for sale and blowout prices. The car had the paint job, but it was fairly ratty with a stock EFI 5.0 (185ish rwhp), a basic Tremec 3550, and set up to push bad (easier for a novice to control). You could also buy the same car from Panoz with a 4.6 DOHC Ford motor or one called the GTS with a 5.8 liter carbed SBF.
My father was in the market for a C5 track/race car at the time so I was on the lookout for him. I stumbled across the Panoz cars being for sale and it just made sense. The cars are very robust and a good design, the issue over the years is that it needed an OCD refresh... which is what I'm doing now
#90
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BADASS.
Very cool man. Still planning on using those heavy weight flowmasters? Figure you don't wanna add power due to your restrictions with weight but, it would be an easy way to drop some weight off the car if you went with lighter, straight through bullet mufflers. Should also get rid of some heat in those areas, if it mattered.
Looks like you thought of everything already though already based on what I read.
Tight work man. Way to help out POP's.
Very cool man. Still planning on using those heavy weight flowmasters? Figure you don't wanna add power due to your restrictions with weight but, it would be an easy way to drop some weight off the car if you went with lighter, straight through bullet mufflers. Should also get rid of some heat in those areas, if it mattered.
Looks like you thought of everything already though already based on what I read.
Tight work man. Way to help out POP's.
#91
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Flowmasters are going away... re-doing the side pipes depends on which manifolds I end up using. I wanted to use some BBK C5 shorties, but the outlet may be too low to the point it interferes with the rear part of the lower control arm (called the brake strut rod). Basic F-body shorties would put the collector higher and more toward the rear which is how the SBF shorties were, but they don't flow as well. Might have some headers made to copy the headers that came on the Panoz GTS (Headman used to make them). After I get that figured out I can re-do the side-pipes and use a basic Magnaflow straight-through muffler.
When the car had the stock 5.0 it was really slow and really loud... you'd be on the straights so long the noise got annoying. Tried to make it as quiet as possible by ditching the cherry-bombs for the Flowmasters. Actually... we just told the shop to make it quiet and that's what they came up with.
Car will be faster and the loud doesn't bother my father so it'll be loud again.
When the car had the stock 5.0 it was really slow and really loud... you'd be on the straights so long the noise got annoying. Tried to make it as quiet as possible by ditching the cherry-bombs for the Flowmasters. Actually... we just told the shop to make it quiet and that's what they came up with.
Car will be faster and the loud doesn't bother my father so it'll be loud again.
#92
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Flowmasters are going away... re-doing the side pipes depends on which manifolds I end up using. I wanted to use some BBK C5 shorties, but the outlet may be too low to the point it interferes with the rear part of the lower control arm (called the brake strut rod). Basic F-body shorties would put the collector higher and more toward the rear which is how the SBF shorties were, but they don't flow as well. Might have some headers made to copy the headers that came on the Panoz GTS (Headman used to make them). After I get that figured out I can re-do the side-pipes and use a basic Magnaflow straight-through muffler.
When the car had the stock 5.0 it was really slow and really loud... you'd be on the straights so long the noise got annoying. Tried to make it as quiet as possible by ditching the cherry-bombs for the Flowmasters. Actually... we just told the shop to make it quiet and that's what they came up with.
Car will be faster and the loud doesn't bother my father so it'll be loud again.
When the car had the stock 5.0 it was really slow and really loud... you'd be on the straights so long the noise got annoying. Tried to make it as quiet as possible by ditching the cherry-bombs for the Flowmasters. Actually... we just told the shop to make it quiet and that's what they came up with.
Car will be faster and the loud doesn't bother my father so it'll be loud again.
#93
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Truck next to F-body would be awesome... hadn't even thought about using the truck ones. Are they symmetrical on each side? On of the things that bugs me is how the F-body ones are different side to side.
#94
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The f body ones,..I may,..or may not have. What I know that I have is:
C6/truck/truck with V bands/and a JBA or edelbrock shorty tubular truck kit.
Let me see what I have near me,..the other stuff may be in my storage place, which if I am local this weekend, I will go grab and take pictures of, if I am out of town, it will be a min. But, I know several of those are near me now.
Let me go and see what I have if I can get away from my desk in the next few, i'll try and upload to photobucket asap.
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Measure twice, cut once... majority of the heat shielding is complete. Much cleaner than the previous panels. Lighter too.
Last edited by Cobra4B; 01-14-2013 at 09:19 AM.
#99
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Awesome pic.
I went out back the other day and grabbed my closest manifolds that I had, snapped pics,..uploaded them,..they never uploaded. Uploading again right now,...i'll edit this post asap.
I believe they're truck manifolds, but honestly, one looks weird to me, almost like an f body setup. I honestly can't remember. Also, in pics, either C6 or cts-v manifolds(2nd gen)....again, can't remember....its been so long. If all else fails, they all have part numbers which I can find out what their from.
Also, in pics, a set of shorty, tublar manifold truck headers.
Just checked,..here's what uploaded so far..
tubular
And I am pretty sure these are trucks,...but they have a fake cast egr port. Like an egr goes there but it was never tapped,...due to the probable delivery state
..more pics to come.(tried to rotate those, didn't work,..pissing me off)
I went out back the other day and grabbed my closest manifolds that I had, snapped pics,..uploaded them,..they never uploaded. Uploading again right now,...i'll edit this post asap.
I believe they're truck manifolds, but honestly, one looks weird to me, almost like an f body setup. I honestly can't remember. Also, in pics, either C6 or cts-v manifolds(2nd gen)....again, can't remember....its been so long. If all else fails, they all have part numbers which I can find out what their from.
Also, in pics, a set of shorty, tublar manifold truck headers.
Just checked,..here's what uploaded so far..
tubular
And I am pretty sure these are trucks,...but they have a fake cast egr port. Like an egr goes there but it was never tapped,...due to the probable delivery state
..more pics to come.(tried to rotate those, didn't work,..pissing me off)
Last edited by V-seriesTech; 01-15-2013 at 06:42 PM.
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Ordered new swaybar bushings from Panoz and found them to have more play in the inner diameter than the ones I took off the car. The bar is 1.250", the ID of the ones I took off the car with some wear was 1.265-1.275", and the ID of the brand new ones was 1.280-1.285". I ended up wrapping the ends of the bar in teflon tape to take up any play in the ends; worked great.
Cleaned up the brake lines and t-fitting that came off the car. I really think they painted these cars after they put them mostly together as everything seems to have black paint on it. I initially thought the front lines were just dirty, but it was dirt and black paint. Purchased a new firewall-to-t-fitting line from Panoz as the one on the car had been bent around so mmany times it looked like a wet noodle. Also, it was held in place with a zip-tie vs. the adel clamps and tek screws the Panoz assembly manual recommends.
Coming together...
Cleaned up the brake lines and t-fitting that came off the car. I really think they painted these cars after they put them mostly together as everything seems to have black paint on it. I initially thought the front lines were just dirty, but it was dirt and black paint. Purchased a new firewall-to-t-fitting line from Panoz as the one on the car had been bent around so mmany times it looked like a wet noodle. Also, it was held in place with a zip-tie vs. the adel clamps and tek screws the Panoz assembly manual recommends.
Coming together...