Radiator options?
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Radiator options? Im putting a LS1 in my 68 Camaro. How should i go about the cooling system?
Should i get a radiator that is made for the 68 and have bungs welded for different sensors? Should i get a radiator made for 98+ f-bodies? What about a custom one?
How much would each cost?
What about fan options? BeCool or stock 98+ fans?
Wireing for fan activation?
I really like the BeCool system for the 68 Camaro but i think i would need bungs welded on(steam hose, heater, temp modules for fans) and the wireing from the BeCool module i think would be easiest.
Should i get a radiator that is made for the 68 and have bungs welded for different sensors? Should i get a radiator made for 98+ f-bodies? What about a custom one?
How much would each cost?
What about fan options? BeCool or stock 98+ fans?
Wireing for fan activation?
I really like the BeCool system for the 68 Camaro but i think i would need bungs welded on(steam hose, heater, temp modules for fans) and the wireing from the BeCool module i think would be easiest.
On The Tree
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From: Tampa, Florida
I know Be Cool has great stuff. I am going with a http://www.rondavisradiators.com/ unit. They can build them to fit your vehicle, add the necessary provisions for the LS1, equip it with a shrouded electric fans and I'm going to have them throw a cooler in there for my hydroboost/rack and pinion steering. Probably around 800.00
What special things does the LS1 need? I don't have a heater core in my car and I thought I would just use the PCM to control the fans. Is there anything else? I was planning to use a Griffin "universal" 31x19 from Summit (<$200) and Flex-a-lite dual fans (<$200).
I ran a custom radiator that had the BOTH the inlet and outlet on the passengers side, this made for easy routing of the radiator hoses (and a shorter top run).. On the drivers side we had bungs for overflow, steam vent from LS1, trans cooler, and we went with sensors in the radiator to control the fan rather than let the PCM do it (sometimes there are issues, this was fool-proof)..
Drivers side, you can see the fan relays as well:
Radiator cost me $600 and he also made my brackets for the SPAL fans ($250).. here is his website: http://www.alumrad.com/
Drivers side, you can see the fan relays as well:
Radiator cost me $600 and he also made my brackets for the SPAL fans ($250).. here is his website: http://www.alumrad.com/
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Steve1969LS1 - whats your wireing setup? sensors? relays? harness? also do you have dimensions for it? pretty much anything i need to know to get the exact same thing made except for a T56 instead of an auto.
I appreciate all the help from everybody
Kyle
I appreciate all the help from everybody
Kyle
Last edited by HotRod68Camaro; Apr 6, 2004 at 09:02 PM.
They supplied everything (relays, loom, sensors).. You would just order the same deal but without the trans cooler.. He also supplied the 185 and 195 degree sensors you see mounted in the radiator and tell him you want an overflow bung (obvious) and a seperate bung for the LS1 steam hose. If I ever switch to a T56 I will use the trans cooler to cool my PS fluid (handy now since its on the same side at the PS pump with this configuration)..
Just link him to my sight and he will remember
-- oh, it dosent come polished, I did that..
When Speartech modified my LS1 harness I had John add power wires for the fans and a power wire for the elec water pump.
Just link him to my sight and he will remember
-- oh, it dosent come polished, I did that..When Speartech modified my LS1 harness I had John add power wires for the fans and a power wire for the elec water pump.
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Launching!
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Nice Engine Compartment That Engine Really Looks Sharp. Did You polish the Whole Block and Heads yourself. I was Woundering how hard this is to do and how time consuming. Can you just use a moto tool with a buffing wheel and some compound? Thanks
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Verdad Gallardo the Mezier elec water pump uses a SBC t-stat.. i cant recall what temp it is..
The relays/sensors mounted in the radiator are 185 and 195 degrees and control the fans directly.. seem to work great so far.
the block and heads are NOT polished.. just clean aluminum.. but you could polish them if you had a LOT of time to do it and a TON of time to maintain it
The relays/sensors mounted in the radiator are 185 and 195 degrees and control the fans directly.. seem to work great so far.
the block and heads are NOT polished.. just clean aluminum.. but you could polish them if you had a LOT of time to do it and a TON of time to maintain it
C'mon Steve, you know you want to polish the block/heads. lol
Just for future reference on this subject, I ordered a custom radiator from Griffin (our sponsor) to fit my '69, but with LS1 style inlet/outlet positions. It also has an electric fan attached as an option. They quoted 2-3 weeks for typical construction of custom radiators.
Tony
Just for future reference on this subject, I ordered a custom radiator from Griffin (our sponsor) to fit my '69, but with LS1 style inlet/outlet positions. It also has an electric fan attached as an option. They quoted 2-3 weeks for typical construction of custom radiators.
Tony
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Steve - Do you know the part # for the radiator hoses and where you got them?
Just to update everybody on my cars progress. Here in three weeks i will be ordering a new T56 from d&D Performance a Pro 5.0 shifter and a Ram VDS 402/910 clutch and the rest of the drivetrain parts. once the transmission is in. EVERYTHING esle to get the car street legal will be ordered all at once and there will be a mad dash to get the car completed before the end of summer halfway through august.
Just to update everybody on my cars progress. Here in three weeks i will be ordering a new T56 from d&D Performance a Pro 5.0 shifter and a Ram VDS 402/910 clutch and the rest of the drivetrain parts. once the transmission is in. EVERYTHING esle to get the car street legal will be ordered all at once and there will be a mad dash to get the car completed before the end of summer halfway through august.
Last edited by HotRod68Camaro; Jun 29, 2004 at 09:11 AM.
