ls1 blowing 100a fuse
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I use the stye intended for amps. Its quite large and bolts into a little holder. They're all over ebay for under 10 bucks with the holder.
A fuse isn't really needed, but my battery is in the trunk with several feet of cable running underneath the car. I fused it in case I bottom out and crush the cable or something.
You can never have too many grounds. I torched my first starter due to poor grounding. A strap from the block to the fender cured my issue, but a direct ground to the starter isn't a bad idea.
A fuse isn't really needed, but my battery is in the trunk with several feet of cable running underneath the car. I fused it in case I bottom out and crush the cable or something.
You can never have too many grounds. I torched my first starter due to poor grounding. A strap from the block to the fender cured my issue, but a direct ground to the starter isn't a bad idea.
Believe it or not this car audio site has a most excellent selection of fuses.
ANL fuses go to 300 amps I think.
Yeah, I guess if I had a trunk mounted battery i would be tempted to run some sort of fuse. I never ground anything to the frame so I agree with running a negative cable from the battery to the block.
Lots of things can affect starter current draw. Bigger motor, higher compression and starter type all affect it. Get a geared ministarter and current draw drops. Car companies (GM included) are starting to switch to permanent magnet starters cause they are smaller and draw less juice than the old brush type starters. But believe it or not a weak battery or dirty battery post could easily make a 100 amp difference in starter draw. if you can't get the full 12V to the starter current draw goes up massively. Running the ground current through rusty body panels will have the same effect as dirty battery posts.
ANL fuses go to 300 amps I think.
Yeah, I guess if I had a trunk mounted battery i would be tempted to run some sort of fuse. I never ground anything to the frame so I agree with running a negative cable from the battery to the block.
Lots of things can affect starter current draw. Bigger motor, higher compression and starter type all affect it. Get a geared ministarter and current draw drops. Car companies (GM included) are starting to switch to permanent magnet starters cause they are smaller and draw less juice than the old brush type starters. But believe it or not a weak battery or dirty battery post could easily make a 100 amp difference in starter draw. if you can't get the full 12V to the starter current draw goes up massively. Running the ground current through rusty body panels will have the same effect as dirty battery posts.
I run factory grounds from the neg side to the block and the fender, and I add a 4ga jumper from the one on the block to the Frame Rail, and a second one on the other side from block to frame rail. You can never have too many grounds.
I don't have any large fused 12v to any of my starters and I have no issues. All of them are 12v straight from the battery.
Question, just to clean the air.. is the fuse inline with the battery to starter or the IGN to starter Solenoid ?...
I would recommend larger battery cables and good grounds as other above have stated (Pop, the_Merv).. The total resistance of the starter, connectors, ground and wires are running very high on your setup if you keep blowing the fuse. You might check the starter, it might be pulling more resistance and amp than normal. Maybe a new or different starter might also be the answer.
Hope you get is resolved soon.
BC
I would recommend larger battery cables and good grounds as other above have stated (Pop, the_Merv).. The total resistance of the starter, connectors, ground and wires are running very high on your setup if you keep blowing the fuse. You might check the starter, it might be pulling more resistance and amp than normal. Maybe a new or different starter might also be the answer.
Hope you get is resolved soon.
BC