LQ4/T56 into 2001 BMW 540i
07-13-2015, 11:52 AM
#461
A bit of both
I originally chose this chassis over something smaller (like an E46 or E90) because I thought I would need the room for family and other passengers. However, since I have another car that I use for daily duties, the back seat has been used maybe a dozen times since I have bought the car. If I'm going to have a toy it might as well be smaller.
The car has been great to me and it's exactly where I want it mechanically and aesthetically - I am kind of itching to start another project. As it sits the car can be enjoyed by the new owner exactly as is, or would be a great base for a power adder build.
I originally chose this chassis over something smaller (like an E46 or E90) because I thought I would need the room for family and other passengers. However, since I have another car that I use for daily duties, the back seat has been used maybe a dozen times since I have bought the car. If I'm going to have a toy it might as well be smaller.
The car has been great to me and it's exactly where I want it mechanically and aesthetically - I am kind of itching to start another project. As it sits the car can be enjoyed by the new owner exactly as is, or would be a great base for a power adder build.
07-13-2015, 12:28 PM
#467
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Before you leave us, I still want to know your technique for those kickass burnouts! Lol
Drop the clutch and then move your left foot to the brake? If so, does this only really work so well when you have the rear wheels in water and the front wheels on a higher friction surface? I've never had the technique down for a sustainable manual transmission burnout without a line lock...
Drop the clutch and then move your left foot to the brake? If so, does this only really work so well when you have the rear wheels in water and the front wheels on a higher friction surface? I've never had the technique down for a sustainable manual transmission burnout without a line lock...
07-13-2015, 01:49 PM
#468
Before you leave us, I still want to know your technique for those kickass burnouts! Lol
Drop the clutch and then move your left foot to the brake? If so, does this only really work so well when you have the rear wheels in water and the front wheels on a higher friction surface? I've never had the technique down for a sustainable manual transmission burnout without a line lock...
Drop the clutch and then move your left foot to the brake? If so, does this only really work so well when you have the rear wheels in water and the front wheels on a higher friction surface? I've never had the technique down for a sustainable manual transmission burnout without a line lock...
07-13-2015, 02:14 PM
#470
07-13-2015, 02:18 PM
#471
Before you leave us, I still want to know your technique for those kickass burnouts! Lol
Drop the clutch and then move your left foot to the brake? If so, does this only really work so well when you have the rear wheels in water and the front wheels on a higher friction surface? I've never had the technique down for a sustainable manual transmission burnout without a line lock...
Drop the clutch and then move your left foot to the brake? If so, does this only really work so well when you have the rear wheels in water and the front wheels on a higher friction surface? I've never had the technique down for a sustainable manual transmission burnout without a line lock...
1. find open area, you'd be surprised how much the car will rotate side to side even when barely moving!
2. make sure front wheels are pointed straight ahead! Turn off traction control if you have it.
3. e-brake off, clutch in, engage 1st gear. focus mentally, a lot of loud noises, movements, and smells are about to happen.
4. i usually free-rev the motor 2-3 times to bring it up to speed (generally 5000 rpm). this is done with a few part throttle zings, not WOT
5. this is the trickiest step, because a lot of things happen quickly.
once you're at your desired rpm, quickly remove your LEFT foot from the clutch (dump it), and transfer it to the brake pedal, and press the brakes with about 50% of max effort. obviously these number is very different for various vehicles. At the same time, I then generally quickly increase throttle to about 75% to overcome the increased drag from the brakes. Your right foot stays on the throttle and modulates it. The car will usually move forward a few feet during the time that your left foot is moving from the clutch to the brake.
Once the tires are spinning, the key is to not let the revs fall below a certain point (usually around the peak torque curve, because the motor will quickly bog and embarrassingly stall. You really only need enough brake pressure to hold the car still.
6. Generally I hold step 5 for about 5-10 seconds depending on how loudly my wife is yelling at me. At this point you're ready to end the burnout, and you have two options:
6a. Remove left foot from brake AND gas, and quickly press in clutch. The car shouldn't move forward at all, but the tires will stop spinning. Do this step if the cops show up or something sounds broken. OR:
6b. Manly step: Remove left foot from brake and put right foot down to the wood. The car will pick up speed and you leave in a cloud of tire smoke boiling off the back of the car. Bounce it off the limiter until the tires regain traction. A lot of guys will upshift to 2nd and try to keep the tires going, but that's a slippery slope since the car is moving along at a good clip of speed with essentially zero traction in the rear. I don't think I've ever bothered with method 6a.
07-30-2015, 11:33 AM
#472
some little things here and there
had the car tuned at New Era Performance, with a focus on driveability- pretty happy with the result.
Picking up the car - some nice machinery out front (check out the sick drug dealer SUV)
IMG_0169 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
IMG_0170 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
IMG_0171 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Finally had an alignment done - ironically this is the first one I have done in the 4 years and 43K miles I've owned the car for. Rear camber was about a degree too negative, and front toe needed work too.
IMG_0184 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
IMG_0182 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
As usual, passed inspection without a hitch - just plug and play
IMG_0185 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Next up: installing this
IMG_0192 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
IMG_0200 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
so i can stop doing this
had the car tuned at New Era Performance, with a focus on driveability- pretty happy with the result.
Picking up the car - some nice machinery out front (check out the sick drug dealer SUV)
IMG_0169 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrIMG_0170 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrIMG_0171 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrFinally had an alignment done - ironically this is the first one I have done in the 4 years and 43K miles I've owned the car for. Rear camber was about a degree too negative, and front toe needed work too.
IMG_0184 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrIMG_0182 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrAs usual, passed inspection without a hitch - just plug and play
IMG_0185 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrNext up: installing this
IMG_0192 by Norbert Ogiba, on FlickrIMG_0200 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickrso i can stop doing this
08-03-2015, 09:43 PM
#475
08-05-2015, 06:34 AM
#477
08-11-2015, 01:48 PM
#480
On The Tree
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Orlando
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e34 LS6, porsche 928 LS1, 41 Hudson 5.3 No video on 41 hudson
Go to you tube and watch a video on wiring. Print out the pins.
I would start with the wiring. Locate your new ECU position. Undo all wire wraps and cut out everything you dont need. Cut to size all wires to sensors and power and GRND wires.