Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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How many of you are still using dexcool

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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 08:12 AM
  #21  
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Guys I'm wondering about mine now. Did a swap into a 66 Nova. My catch can is from Jegs and it doesn't have a tube that goes into the catch can. And the catch can has a small hole (like 1/16" diameter in it). Reading this about the air entry, it sounds like I have the wrong catch can. Should I change it? Or is mine fine?
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 12:27 PM
  #22  
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I wouldn't run Dexcool. I converted over to Zerex G-05/distilled water on my fleet a decade ago. NAPA stocks it and it's not expensive. It was the coolant designed by BASF for Mercedes. Look it up and decide for yourself. It's a compromise, but seems to work. I'm still running all my brass radiators and heater cores.
More info:
http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=816
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 11:53 AM
  #23  
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I quit using dexcool also due to the brown sludge. I actually have been using Mopars 5 year formula with great success.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #24  
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3 ls1 cars here. Always used dexcool. Never any problems. Always did proper maintenance and the systems have been crystal clear.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 11:14 PM
  #25  
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I also run dexcool in my 2000 Z28. Radiator is clean no issues at all with it. I change it out every 5 years.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 11:52 PM
  #26  
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In systems designed for dex cool, I've seen no problems with it, in my personal fleet. However, i saw a lot of baaaaaad stuff when I worked at a dealership.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 11:09 AM
  #27  
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Dexcool and distilled water here.

I prefer dexcool because it tastes better than most antifreezes lol. But for real if used right dexcool lasts forever!
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 07:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by STEEPSS
In systems designed for dex cool, I've seen no problems with it, in my personal fleet. However, i saw a lot of baaaaaad stuff when I worked at a dealership.
This is exactly what I'm trying to find out............. what is the DESIGNED system? My overflow/catch can is fed from the top, doesn't have a tube going to the bottom, and has a tiny vent hole in the top of it. From reading about the air issues, I'm assuming my catch can is incorrect?
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 08:39 AM
  #29  
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Went to Wally World last night to pick up antifreeze to change out two of my vehicles before winter. They don't even stock the green stuff anymore, only the "good for all colors" stuff.

Availability might be as good a reason as any to switch to the HOAT stuff.

You know, even though I switched to an aluminum radiator I still have the 70's vintage heater core.

That article dzus linked is pretty good yet totally confusing. Maybe G-05 is the answer.

Looks to me like the green stuff does everything it needed to do. Doesn't eat plastic or gaskets, protects water pumps, works with brass radiators and heater cores, doesn't gunk up, is aluminum friendly. Only down side is not extended life (who cares) and there is some controversy about silicates. Also possibly availability.

Damn, when did flipping antifreeze get so complicated?

Last edited by Pop N Wood; Sep 13, 2012 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 12:42 PM
  #30  
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I prefer orange kool aide to the lime kool aid the key to good taste for both is to use distilled water when mixing. It's the crap in the water that gunks up the stuff.
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 11:40 AM
  #31  
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I used the Toyota red coolant, like it bacause if it leaks it leaves a a trail makes it easier to find leaks, haven't had any problems, its a 30k mile coolant, and since I'm a tech at toyota its free. never seen any toyota's with brown gunk unless someone decides he wants to see what happens when you mix toyota red coolant with the universal green stuff.
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