Initial start (LQ4) bad noises! video
09-06-2012, 10:58 PM
#21
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ZERO compression on cylinder #4. Valves are moving up/down just fine. Feelsbadman!
I'll need your guys advice on the best way to get it fixed once I get in there to asses the damage. If anybody has a long block laying around, let me know!
Bob
I'll need your guys advice on the best way to get it fixed once I get in there to asses the damage. If anybody has a long block laying around, let me know!
Bob
09-08-2012, 11:35 AM
#22
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Well it's times like this I hate being right but it's an easy fix. What I did was I replaced that one piston and it fired right up and is still running strong today 3 years later. Get the pan off and see if anything else is wrong. Check all the connecting rods to see if they are straight.
09-08-2012, 02:07 PM
#23
I would start by taking it back to the yard you bought it from. See what they can do to make it right. If you bought the engine, and it was running choice in the van, then it should be still running choice in the swap. Unless you dissessembled it.
09-08-2012, 02:08 PM
#24
Scary stuff.... Whomever "tuned it", dumped a BUNCH of fuel in it, or the injs are stuck, and the start up jacked the rod out. Rod hitting the windage tray?
Also, if the engine was dumped over after you heard it run in the JY, there's a likelhood the cyl was filled w/ oil, and that took the rod out.
Just had that happen to a low mile rollover truck. The dumass at the auction house, tried to start it.. #4 rod is now on the outside of the block....
Also, if the engine was dumped over after you heard it run in the JY, there's a likelhood the cyl was filled w/ oil, and that took the rod out.
Just had that happen to a low mile rollover truck. The dumass at the auction house, tried to start it.. #4 rod is now on the outside of the block....
09-08-2012, 06:47 PM
#25
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Before I turn the key after the motor is fixed I want to be SURE the fuel injection is working properly. What do you guys recommend I do to guarantee I don't have the same problem next time?
Also, could a bad MAF sensor/signal cause this? For instance, if it's telling the PCM that it's -39°F ambient temp, could it be dumping enough fuel to blow the motor?
Also, could a bad MAF sensor/signal cause this? For instance, if it's telling the PCM that it's -39°F ambient temp, could it be dumping enough fuel to blow the motor?
09-08-2012, 06:59 PM
#26
Before I turn the key after the motor is fixed I want to be SURE the fuel injection is working properly. What do you guys recommend I do to guarantee I don't have the same problem next time?
Also, could a bad MAF sensor/signal cause this? For instance, if it's telling the PCM that it's -39°F ambient temp, could it be dumping enough fuel to blow the motor?
Also, could a bad MAF sensor/signal cause this? For instance, if it's telling the PCM that it's -39°F ambient temp, could it be dumping enough fuel to blow the motor?
Don't think a bad MAF could ever possibly dump enough fuel in. It to hydrolock the engine.
09-08-2012, 10:19 PM
#27
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You guys are spot on. Injector #4 is stuck wide open!
Now here's the kicker. I had the OEM injectors serviced by (DELETED)! I thought it would be worth having them inspected and cleanedup before running them, boy did that idea backfire!
Obviously I'm going to have to chat with them on Monday. Do you guys think I'll have any luck getting them to pay for the damages?
Now here's the kicker. I had the OEM injectors serviced by (DELETED)! I thought it would be worth having them inspected and cleanedup before running them, boy did that idea backfire!
Obviously I'm going to have to chat with them on Monday. Do you guys think I'll have any luck getting them to pay for the damages?
Last edited by wazzubob; 09-09-2012 at 12:43 PM.
09-09-2012, 12:45 PM
#29
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Bob
09-13-2012, 06:31 PM
#31
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The injector shop agreed to cover the cost of a new (used) long block. It should be here next week!
Take a look at the block. Is this thing toast, or could it be repaired?
Take a look at the block. Is this thing toast, or could it be repaired?
09-13-2012, 06:43 PM
#32
I've seen someone overtighten spark plugs (alum head) and once it runs, it strips the threads &out goes the plug...... it sounds exactly like that.
09-14-2012, 06:21 AM
#33
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It could be welded, but it is a big project to weld cast iron. You would then need to redo all of the machine work due to the extreme heat. Don't waste the time, too many good blocks and engines available.
