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5.3 4l60e swap into my RUSTY '71 C-10

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Old 11-24-2012, 06:57 AM
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love this build buy have a master cylinder question. would a master cylinder off a 99 up hd truck work without making a spacer?
Old 11-24-2012, 07:38 PM
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I like that bcm install and I know you need it for the tow hall mode, can you explain how it will control those other things you mentioned. Would love to do this to my ls conversion especially the tow haul. Getting ready to install cruise in my truck. Did that bcm come out of the same vehicle as you drive train that your using love thi build.
Old 11-25-2012, 04:54 PM
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Default 1971 rusty c10

hello ls1nova71, what r you doing for fuel lines? also will you be using the stock fuel tank located in the cab? i dont recall reading that you relocated the in-cab fuel tank in your first c10 build. basically all i remember about that build was you making popsicles all winter. nice blue popsicles. lol.
Old 11-25-2012, 05:14 PM
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Looking good sir. I cannot wait to get started on mine. I have a 68 swb C10 I'm putting an LY6 in with a 6L80. Already got everything ready to go. I just have to finish my Chevelle first.
Old 11-26-2012, 04:19 PM
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You might like this? rusty and cool, 6.0 4L60e check out the whole build http://www.spankysrodshop.net/index....olet&Itemid=14
Attached Thumbnails 5.3 4l60e swap into my RUSTY '71 C-10-img_5504-small-.jpg   5.3 4l60e swap into my RUSTY '71 C-10-img_5510-small-.jpg   5.3 4l60e swap into my RUSTY '71 C-10-img_5511-small-.jpg   5.3 4l60e swap into my RUSTY '71 C-10-img_5507-small-.jpg   5.3 4l60e swap into my RUSTY '71 C-10-img_5512-small-.jpg  

5.3 4l60e swap into my RUSTY '71 C-10-img_3081-small-.jpg   5.3 4l60e swap into my RUSTY '71 C-10-img_3186-small-.jpg  
Old 11-26-2012, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by weircc
Thats good to know that you know where richmond is you wont have trouble finding me to come help with your expert skills lol
Well you'd have to wait until this thread is finished! But after that, let me know if I can be of any assistance.

Originally Posted by matt22
Check out this project, some guy did a real nice install 6.0L 4L60e into a rusty 63 chevy pickup, they have all the right stuff.

http://www.spankysrodshop.net/index....olet&Itemid=14
That is cool, a little nicer than mine though!

Originally Posted by dobbs187
love this build buy have a master cylinder question. would a master cylinder off a 99 up hd truck work without making a spacer?
Yes it would work without the spacer, but you may have to adapt the lines. Using the stock master cylinder just takes any guess work out of it since I know it will work.

Originally Posted by daaaanz67
I like that bcm install and I know you need it for the tow hall mode, can you explain how it will control those other things you mentioned. Would love to do this to my ls conversion especially the tow haul. Getting ready to install cruise in my truck. Did that bcm come out of the same vehicle as you drive train that your using love thi build.
The BCM is out of a 2002 Silverado, but '99-'02 are the same, and some S-10's use the same ones too. I'm still not 100% sure that you NEED the BCM for the tow/haul function to work, since I keep hearing people say that you don't need it. I don't have any concrete evidence though since I haven't tried it, but with the BCM I'm sure it will work. The down side of it is I haven't come up with a way to put a light on the dash that would light up when the tow/haul is on. As for the other functions, I don't know how to explain exactly how it works. Basically it just controls the headlights, dome light, and retained acessory power. They're wired through relays, and it's pretty much a stand alone system. You don't need a PCM for it to work with those things. It only hooks to the PCM through a serila data wire and the VSS. The VSS is only so if you leave your turn signal on for a mile or so, it will sound the chime to remind you to turn it off. Not necessary, but kind of cool.

Originally Posted by dec010974
hello ls1nova71, what r you doing for fuel lines? also will you be using the stock fuel tank located in the cab? i dont recall reading that you relocated the in-cab fuel tank in your first c10 build. basically all i remember about that build was you making popsicles all winter. nice blue popsicles. lol.
I'm using the factory lines that run from the transmission to the intake. The rest of them will be steel hard line from the auto parts store. I usually use fuel injection rubber hose for the flex points, but I'm thinking of trying the plastic/nylon hose with compression fittings instead of the rubber hose and clamps. I'll let you know when the time comes. I am leaving the stock tank in it, I relocated the tank on my orange truck, but it's hard to find a place for a fuel filler. Oh, and it's getting cold here again, man I HATE winter!!!!
Old 11-26-2012, 10:45 PM
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Been working on getting the wiring finished up, but first needed to test the fuel injectors to make sure they weren't stuck or leaking. I had an incident with a leaking injector once and hydrolocked a motor, so now I'm kind of paranoid. So anyway, I rigged me up a ghetto fuel injector tester. (DISCLAIMER- This could be dangerous, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK) I got a battery, some old fuel lines, an old intank pump, an injector pigtail and some wire. I hooked the pump up and turned it on and it held pressure, wanted to make sure that none of the injectors were going to leak, then one at a time, I hooked the injector pigtail up to the injectors and pulsed them, they all sprayed good, so I primed the rail again and let it sit for a while. Still none leaked, so I bolted the rail back onto the intake.

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With the fuel rail bolted on for good, I put the harness back on the engine and started adding the remaining wires that needed to be added to the harness. Here The cruise control wires are being added.

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Then I added the relays for the fuel pump, starter and A/C clutch.

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I got the relays, relay pigtails, BCM and a bunch of wire the correct size and colors at the U-Pick-It for $16. I try to keep all the wires the factory color incase I need to trace anything down in the future, it makes it easier.

Relays and wire.... $16
Heatshrink.... $20 (bought it at a car show, should have bought more. )
Old 11-26-2012, 10:48 PM
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I love the creativity in the bomb, uh I mean ghetto fuel injector test rig. I never thought about a leaking injector killing an engine, but I've never had that problem either.

I always see those guys selling heat shrink and zip ties at shows and never buy enough.
Old 11-26-2012, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by gofastwclass
I love the creativity in the bomb, uh I mean ghetto fuel injector test rig. I never thought about a leaking injector killing an engine, but I've never had that problem either.
I never had a problem either until the orange truck. It didn't kill the engine, but when it hydrolocked, it knocked a tooth off the flywheel! Could have been worse, I've heard stories about rods coming out the side of the block.
Old 11-27-2012, 07:06 AM
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It's a rare thing for an injector to leak,but when they do,bad stuff happens.I've never seen one leak bad enough to hydrolock an engine.That one must have stuck open.
Old 11-28-2012, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueMaxCougar
It's a rare thing for an injector to leak,but when they do,bad stuff happens.I've never seen one leak bad enough to hydrolock an engine.That one must have stuck open.
Yes, I'm sure it stuck open, rather than just leaked since it did it in about a half an hours time. I pulled the truck out of the garage and it started fine, went to start it to move it back in, and BANG! Hydrolocked! I pulled the plugs and they were all dry except for the last one I pulled, #8 was wet, I cranked the engine over and it sprayed gas out of the cylinder all over everything! I had the coils unplugged when I cranked it, you don't make that mistake twice!!

Been working on wiring still, but it's so cold that I don't spend as much time in the garage as I do in the summer. I got the junction block mounted so I can use the wire coming off the factory battery cable.

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And I have all the wires that need to go in the cab run through a grommet and through the fire wall. Still need to put all the split loom back on the harness, but you probably knew that.

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Since this IS going to be a driver and I'll probably drive it in the slush and snow and crap, I spent a little time and mounted a windshield washer pump off of a late '80's Chevy van to the washer bottle bracket and got it wired up. The original washer pump mounted on the wiper motors quit working about 6 month after these trucks were bought new, and that's probably being generous! And before someone asks "what's snow", just know that I hate you!!!! what I wouldn't give to live somewhere that it doesn't get stupid cold and snow!

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Washer pump at u-pick-it.... $3
Washer hose.... $6
Old 11-29-2012, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1nova71
And before someone asks "what's snow", just know that I hate you!!!! what I wouldn't give to live somewhere that it doesn't get stupid cold and snow!
That's ok. I'll help you track them down and we'll just kick their butt and move into their house for the winter.

I have parts to install waiting on my garage to warm up. Tried to do some wiring last weekend and I re-discovered I can't do it wearing gloves. I did buy some kerosene for the heater, but that wasn't the mission I was trying to accomplish.
Old 11-29-2012, 01:13 AM
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Come to Bama, it hardly ever snows. Was a crisp 65* or so today! Love the truck man, I have a '79 I want to do an LS swap with. It's a rusty thing too! Great job. I love how you give the cost for everything you use.
Old 11-29-2012, 10:20 AM
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I didn't know about the washer fluid pump dying.I've never seen one go bad.Maybe I just haven't dealt with enough C model trucks.

Oh, what is snow?J/K We get snow, sometimes.Most of the time it's really bad ice storms.Those suck ***.
Old 11-29-2012, 07:56 PM
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Ls1 nova, I am once again in awe in your build. I'm just a newbie/ lurker here, but I speak the truth based on everyone's response.

I LOVE the 1933 Ford build, any build links?

Leon
Old 11-29-2012, 10:23 PM
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Nice build!

Doug
Old 12-01-2012, 10:44 AM
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Wow, simply put amazing, old rusty with a nice gitty up
Old 12-01-2012, 09:00 PM
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Default TBSS manifolds

hello to all ls1tech fans. ls1nova71, btw the TBSS manifolds fit great. what you forgot to mention was that the heat shieds needs to be cut/altered if using the stock v8 frame mounts. i have pics if anyone needs them
Old 12-01-2012, 11:10 PM
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I can't tell you how much your build threads have helped me with up front research. I have a LQ4 (LS3 heads/L92 intake) and 4L80e going into a 72 c10 shortly. I am in the process of amassing parts Just wanted to say thanks and compliment your amazing work with all of these swaps!!!
Old 12-03-2012, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by reedld
Ls1 nova, I am once again in awe in your build. I'm just a newbie/ lurker here, but I speak the truth based on everyone's response.

I LOVE the 1933 Ford build, any build links?

Leon
I have alot of pics of the '33 build, but I built it before I had a digital camera, so all the pics I have are actual photos. I need to scan some sometime.

Originally Posted by dec010974
hello to all ls1tech fans. ls1nova71, btw the TBSS manifolds fit great. what you forgot to mention was that the heat shieds needs to be cut/altered if using the stock v8 frame mounts. i have pics if anyone needs them
I'm using modified factory mounts, so I was not aware of them hitting the original stands.

Originally Posted by gofastwclass
That's ok. I'll help you track them down and we'll just kick their butt and move into their house for the winter.
December 3rd, and it's 70 degreest today, we may not need to to go all Jackie Chan on them after all!


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