converting my 68 to daily driver
#21
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The cheapest fuel option I've seen has been the B-Body tank another cheap option is an external fuel pump and regulator setup.
If your looking for a cheap option keep the truck manifolds. I've seen most use Hooker or Doug's for headers. If you do plan to use any brands set of headers its is probably your best bet to also use there adapters too.
I personally used the Dirty Dingo Alternator/PS Pump relocation bracket in my setup but have read many threads where people have easily mod the truck bracket with success.
Your also going to need to modify the harness unless you plan to buy an aftermarket harness.
Good luck!
If your looking for a cheap option keep the truck manifolds. I've seen most use Hooker or Doug's for headers. If you do plan to use any brands set of headers its is probably your best bet to also use there adapters too.
I personally used the Dirty Dingo Alternator/PS Pump relocation bracket in my setup but have read many threads where people have easily mod the truck bracket with success.
Your also going to need to modify the harness unless you plan to buy an aftermarket harness.
Good luck!
I dont know the best parts to fit your body, but you can even make your own motor mount plates (search for dimensions). Car exhaust manifolds can be cheap if you look, and you can buy new (China) stainless Camaro shorty headers ~$200.00. If you are comfortable doing wiring and have basic electrical knowledge, the truck harness is easily modified. It will take a few hours of your time - LT1swap.com. PSI is a sponsor here and has a nice harness. I would try to find a late plastic fuel tank that fits and use an internal pump.
Good Luck
#23
Those are templates for adapter plates. If you do plan to use those templates you may want to look through some of the other threads and see who else may have used them to duplicate there swap to avoid complications.
Try to create a plan and stick with it the more you change the more expensive it becomes.
Try to create a plan and stick with it the more you change the more expensive it becomes.
#24
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after spending $1300 on motor, tranny, harness and ecm
some parts i will be getting to help with the swap:
Doug's Headers Engine Swap Motor Mount Kits SK100 $74
Energy Suspension Motor Mounts/Motor Mount Inserts 3-1117G $37
Dorman Power Steering Pulleys 300-123 $25
Canton Racing Drag Racing Wet Sump Oil Pans 13-274 $312
Canton Racing Oil Pan Pickups 13-275 $88
Canton Racing Oil Filter Mounts 22-631 $154
as for headers, i dont know what i should be looking for. 98 camaro? is there parts anywhere that are cheaper? this thing adds up like crazy $690
some parts i will be getting to help with the swap:
Doug's Headers Engine Swap Motor Mount Kits SK100 $74
Energy Suspension Motor Mounts/Motor Mount Inserts 3-1117G $37
Dorman Power Steering Pulleys 300-123 $25
Canton Racing Drag Racing Wet Sump Oil Pans 13-274 $312
Canton Racing Oil Pan Pickups 13-275 $88
Canton Racing Oil Filter Mounts 22-631 $154
as for headers, i dont know what i should be looking for. 98 camaro? is there parts anywhere that are cheaper? this thing adds up like crazy $690
#25
I would suggest you use the Doug's Headers. Especially since you picked up there adapter plates. They do offer a set of raw headers for closer to $500 as an option.
If you haven't not already purchase one you're also going to need to purchase an idler pulley relocation bracket or make one yourself.
If you have not already bought the Canton pan you may want to look into the Autokraft or the Holley LS swap pan at $350 you get a complete kit. I've heard similar things about the Autokraft pan.
If you haven't not already purchase one you're also going to need to purchase an idler pulley relocation bracket or make one yourself.
If you have not already bought the Canton pan you may want to look into the Autokraft or the Holley LS swap pan at $350 you get a complete kit. I've heard similar things about the Autokraft pan.
#26
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I haven't bought any of the parts yet, just research. I'm not 100% on the assorted but I here people using eBay headers. What car should I be looking for? Thanks on the heads up on the pans, I'll look into it
#27
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im reading that some people are using ebay headers, is this the certain type i should be looking for?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-02-CAMARO...ht_3776wt_1014
98-02 f-body?
some info i found on chevelles forum
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...s+swap+headers
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...rs-option.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...y-headers.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-02-CAMARO...ht_3776wt_1014
98-02 f-body?
some info i found on chevelles forum
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...s+swap+headers
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...rs-option.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...y-headers.html
Last edited by inda_bebe; 11-13-2012 at 02:33 PM.
#28
I've read a number of threads that have said the F-Body headers will work with a little "TLC". What I'm not sure of is if it is all brands or just a select number of brands. I've seen plenty that have used the pacesetters.
Those EBay headers dont look bad and for the price if you are willing to make them work I don't see where there would be a problem. All the threads I've read have said that you will have to mod the collector on the driver side.
Those EBay headers dont look bad and for the price if you are willing to make them work I don't see where there would be a problem. All the threads I've read have said that you will have to mod the collector on the driver side.
#29
TECH Fanatic
Just a suggestion, but look at how some have modified truck manifolds to fit. If you have them, this could go a long way toward getting you on the road. The Dougs headers are the best fit I have seen. Quality part you never have to apologize to yourself for buying.
#31
I would suggest you just go ahead and use those if you are doing budget build. If you ever plan to upgrade you're better off just buying headers now and buying the ones you want not the ones we suggest. All the brands out there are all basically the same some are easier to install then others but it's all boils down to what your looking for in the end.
#32
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I used the truck manifolds in my Chevelle and cut the flanges off and welded V-band clamps to them. Then made my own downpipes to attach the the BBC/header exhaust the was already on the car. I also used the truck intake. I did later switch to LS1 intake when I turboed the car. I also bought a Junk yard 4.8L and hooked it to my th350. Had I not went turbo I could have done my swap for less tha $1500. But I did all the work and harness my self. Check out my build.
#33
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I don't think its been mentioned yet, but the harness work is easy. lt1swap.com has plenty of info.
Its a big project, but its not hard. Just take it one wire at a time so you don't get lost and overwhelmed.
Its a big project, but its not hard. Just take it one wire at a time so you don't get lost and overwhelmed.
#34
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now that the weather is starting to warm up here in So Cal. i decided to get back on this project. i picked up a few things:
Holly Oil Pan
Hedman Husler 45540
Trans Dapt 4595
Dorman Products 300-123
and started the mod on my truck harness. got confused on some parts. i unpinned the wires and followed them up to the sensors. do i cut of the ground wires on them as well, cause theyre no longer needed? few examples:
also, i cut and labeled the orange and pink wires from the C2 fuse block. im kind of worried cause 1 pink wire (E2- fused ignition positive voltage- transmission, PCM) didnt lead anywhere after i cut it.
this one is attatched to the harness but the pink wire. im thinking this is a pink wire that lead to the lose pink wire (E2)
all the wires here were cut, but the ground. do i cut the ground and discard?
thanks guys
Holly Oil Pan
Hedman Husler 45540
Trans Dapt 4595
Dorman Products 300-123
and started the mod on my truck harness. got confused on some parts. i unpinned the wires and followed them up to the sensors. do i cut of the ground wires on them as well, cause theyre no longer needed? few examples:
also, i cut and labeled the orange and pink wires from the C2 fuse block. im kind of worried cause 1 pink wire (E2- fused ignition positive voltage- transmission, PCM) didnt lead anywhere after i cut it.
this one is attatched to the harness but the pink wire. im thinking this is a pink wire that lead to the lose pink wire (E2)
all the wires here were cut, but the ground. do i cut the ground and discard?
thanks guys
Last edited by inda_bebe; 03-07-2013 at 12:08 PM.
#35
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On my harness I removed the connectors not needed at the pcm connector (they slide right out)...and if any had grounds going into the ground splice, I snipped them off at the splice and re-wrapped it
#36
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now im trying to find out what budget fuel system i should go with. im not gonna be driving far or hard w/ it. my commute to work is only 5 min. and furthest i might drive is 20 mi. would i be okay w/ a inline walbro pump and corvette regulator?
#37
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there were a few of them, right? just making sure. thanks for the quick reply
#38
1. You can go the inline fuel route that many have done successfully. One draw back is that because the pump is external they do have a chance of overheating a dying out sooner then normal life expectancy. Also some have complained of fuel starvation.
2. I spoke of the b-body tank option. It seems to be the most economical choice. You will have to cut a hole into your trunk pan for tank pump clearance and trim the frame railing as the pump is wider than the stock tank.
3. You can use the original tank and mod it with a Tanks Inc, Aeromotive or 2010+ GM Camaro in tank pump. It takes some welding and cutting to the old tank but has been proven to work.
4. You can buy a tank designed for EFI. I've seen them go for $350-$1800+.
#40
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i was originally thinking the b body tanks, but i didnt feel like driving 40 mi. to pick one up at the yard. but, im still thinking about it. if not, then im just gonna go external.