Another 89 Mustang Coupe LS Swap
02-03-2013, 04:56 PM
#82
Still been slammed with work. Got a little time to work on it Friday. Ran my 1/0 battery cable from the front back to the trunk and got my Moroso battery box mounted, but forgot to take pictures lol. I need to get my battery switch and push/pull handle ordered to finish the battery relocation up. Went and picked up the paint that matches the car and got everything under the hood painted with a couple of coats. Definitely looks a lot better.
02-03-2013, 07:57 PM
#90
This is what I used
From the battery to a gound lug on the cage in the back from there the wire runs to the pass thru in the firewall. I have one on the fwd part of the block to the cage up front and a ground strap from the drivers side head to the throttle cable area.
Tim
From the battery to a gound lug on the cage in the back from there the wire runs to the pass thru in the firewall. I have one on the fwd part of the block to the cage up front and a ground strap from the drivers side head to the throttle cable area.
Tim
02-19-2013, 08:40 PM
#94
Got to spend a little time on the car this afternoon. I got my battery box mounted as well as my cutoff switch. I really didn't want a switch on the outside of the car all of the time. So I ordered the Moroso 4-post cutoff switch along with the push/pull handle setup.
I grabbed an extra passenger's side taillight and drilled it for the rod to pass through. That way I can have it for the track so I can be legal. Then once I'm done I can pull the rod and the taillight and put the un-drilled taillight back on. That way I don't have to worry about someone jacking with it. I can still use the switch as well, and it will be locked securely in the trunk.
I mounted the switch on a piece of angled aluminum and mounted it to the side of the battery box, with another piece of metal on the inside of the box for reinforcement. Used all 1/0 welding cable, copper lugs that are soldered and crimped, then finished them off with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. A little time consuming, but the finished product is well worth it and gives me the security of knowing it wasn't thrown together.
Ran the following cables:
Short lead from positive battery post (marine terminal) to cutoff switch
Long positive run from other side of switch all the way to the front of the car (through the inside of the car)
Long negative run from negative battery terminal to bolt on K-member (through the inside of the car)
Short negative cable from battery post through trunk floor to frame rail
Still need to run:
Vent tube
Small jumper from hot side of switch to one of the small post (for energizing alternator)
Long positive run (10 gauge) from other small post to alternator field wire
Here are a couple of diagrams from another member to help explain the wiring of the switch for the alternator field wire:
And a few pics of the work I got done on it today
I grabbed an extra passenger's side taillight and drilled it for the rod to pass through. That way I can have it for the track so I can be legal. Then once I'm done I can pull the rod and the taillight and put the un-drilled taillight back on. That way I don't have to worry about someone jacking with it. I can still use the switch as well, and it will be locked securely in the trunk.
I mounted the switch on a piece of angled aluminum and mounted it to the side of the battery box, with another piece of metal on the inside of the box for reinforcement. Used all 1/0 welding cable, copper lugs that are soldered and crimped, then finished them off with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. A little time consuming, but the finished product is well worth it and gives me the security of knowing it wasn't thrown together.
Ran the following cables:
Short lead from positive battery post (marine terminal) to cutoff switch
Long positive run from other side of switch all the way to the front of the car (through the inside of the car)
Long negative run from negative battery terminal to bolt on K-member (through the inside of the car)
Short negative cable from battery post through trunk floor to frame rail
Still need to run:
Vent tube
Small jumper from hot side of switch to one of the small post (for energizing alternator)
Long positive run (10 gauge) from other small post to alternator field wire
Here are a couple of diagrams from another member to help explain the wiring of the switch for the alternator field wire:
And a few pics of the work I got done on it today
02-23-2013, 11:36 AM
#95
Got a few more things done to the car yesterday. Went ahead and dropped the short block in so I could figure out exactly where I needed to terminate my positive battery cables. Motor dropped right in, no problems. Using the Team Z k-member but instead of using their mounts another member (gray86hatch) made me some mounts that moves the engine about 1" further back than where the Team Z mounts put it. I still have the truck oil pan on it for now. With the new mounts the oil pan sits about 1" above the K-member and about 2" behind it.
Got my main battery cable coming from the disconnect switch routed and attached to the lug on the starter and then ran a section from there over to my power lug in my drivers side inner fender. Went to tighten down the nut on the starter power lug and it broke off of the solenoid lol.
So I need to grab another solenoid or starter at some point.
I didn't like where I had the power and ground cables coming through the floor, which was just inside the frame rail. So I moved them over to the outside. There is a recessed are that worked perfect. Forgot to take any pics of it.
Just like everything else on my battery relocation I used 1/0 welding cable, tinned lugs that are soldered and crimped, and then two layers of adhesive lined shrink wrap. Rubber grommets any place it passes through, and secured in place. Only thing left on the battery wiring is to get all of my 4-gauge stuff for the run from the alternator to the battery.
Also got the back side of the inner fenders painted. Mounted my B&M ProStick in the ashtray area. Everything is mounted securely in place, just need to do some cosmetic work on the console area to make it look better. Anyway, here are a few update pictures.
Got my main battery cable coming from the disconnect switch routed and attached to the lug on the starter and then ran a section from there over to my power lug in my drivers side inner fender. Went to tighten down the nut on the starter power lug and it broke off of the solenoid lol.
So I need to grab another solenoid or starter at some point.
I didn't like where I had the power and ground cables coming through the floor, which was just inside the frame rail. So I moved them over to the outside. There is a recessed are that worked perfect. Forgot to take any pics of it.
Just like everything else on my battery relocation I used 1/0 welding cable, tinned lugs that are soldered and crimped, and then two layers of adhesive lined shrink wrap. Rubber grommets any place it passes through, and secured in place. Only thing left on the battery wiring is to get all of my 4-gauge stuff for the run from the alternator to the battery.
Also got the back side of the inner fenders painted. Mounted my B&M ProStick in the ashtray area. Everything is mounted securely in place, just need to do some cosmetic work on the console area to make it look better. Anyway, here are a few update pictures.
03-02-2013, 09:36 PM
#99
Had to work most of the day today, but I did get a little time this afternoon to work on the car a little. I got my Team-Z double adjustable lower control arms put on:
Only really had one small snag with the control arms. The Team-Z control arms use 1/2" bolts on both ends, which requires you to drill out the holes where the bolts go through. I didn't get the bolts when I bought the arms, so it was off to the hardware store. 1/2" bolts were way to small. I bought them from a guy that had used them for a couple of months on his car and then changed setups. Well come to find out, he had drilled the bushings out to 5/8" for some reason. Really wasn't a big deal, and after a little looking around, I found other that had changed to 5/8", so I went with it.. 5/8" is overkill but works fine. So I grabbed a 5/8" drill bit and the hardware.
Along with the lower control arms I got my Strange 10-way adjustable rear shocks put on along with a factory V8 rear springs with a coil cut off. Definitely want to get disc brakes installed once the motor swap is done.
Only really had one small snag with the control arms. The Team-Z control arms use 1/2" bolts on both ends, which requires you to drill out the holes where the bolts go through. I didn't get the bolts when I bought the arms, so it was off to the hardware store. 1/2" bolts were way to small. I bought them from a guy that had used them for a couple of months on his car and then changed setups. Well come to find out, he had drilled the bushings out to 5/8" for some reason. Really wasn't a big deal, and after a little looking around, I found other that had changed to 5/8", so I went with it.. 5/8" is overkill but works fine. So I grabbed a 5/8" drill bit and the hardware.
Along with the lower control arms I got my Strange 10-way adjustable rear shocks put on along with a factory V8 rear springs with a coil cut off. Definitely want to get disc brakes installed once the motor swap is done.
