Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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'00 S10 4.8, 4L80, P1SC and Ford 8.8" swap

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Old 02-10-2013, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by NemeSS
So is the trans non electronic?
I know anothrr member here used an older 90s? Non electronic 4l80.
Im lookin for one for my 3rd gen. But i need an older manual one with no electronic controls.
I just can find a definite answer on which vehicles and years they were available
I think you misread. The trans I used was from a 2003 chevy 2500. I installed a transgo hd-3 full manual valve body kit which eliminates the electronic controlled parts inside the trans. There is no such thing as a non electric 4l80 unless it has been converted to full manual control. The TH400 is probably what you saw but it has no overdrive.
Old 02-10-2013, 01:38 PM
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Ok
I see what you mean. Im not too familiar with the 80.
I thought the older 90s models were like the 700r4. No electronics.
I have a 700 now but i need to use a 80. But since im gonna use ms and a msd box.
Need atransmission like yours. No electronic controller box.
Thanks for the info.
Do you have a part no. For that kit you used.
sounds like ive found what im looking for
Old 02-10-2013, 01:41 PM
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Sub.d
Old 02-10-2013, 03:14 PM
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someone correct me if im wrong but if i recall the 700R4 is pretty much a TH350 trans with an overdrive and the 4L80E is a TH400 with overdrive. NemeSS, you are correct the 700R4 is non electronic overdrive transmisssion. here is the link to the full manual valve body kit i bought

http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes

i havent driven the truck yet so i dont know how well it works to give you feedback and i have heard mixed reviews about it so we shall see how it does.
Old 02-10-2013, 03:15 PM
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Also, this was not easy to install at all since the directions are very crappy so if your general mechanical abilities arent the best i would leave this to some one who knows what they are doing. if i managed to mess it up and it doesnt work i can just get another trans from my dads salvage yard so it really isnt a big deal....

Last edited by FakeSnake; 02-10-2013 at 03:22 PM.
Old 02-10-2013, 11:40 PM
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Right on thanks! Im going 700R4 as well. Manual valve body and reverse throw
Old 02-18-2013, 11:05 PM
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okie dokie electronics gurus... this is the connector that joins the engine wiring harness to the fuse box. the thick purple wire was connected to the starter solenoid on the 2.2 that was originally in the truck. today i hooked up my battery to see if i would get power through this wire when i turned the key and no dice. what am i missing? shouldnt this wire get 12v when keyed to start?




Old 02-19-2013, 07:07 AM
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IIRC... It should get power, but it is wired through a relay on the drivers side inner fender and the relay is grounded off the motor somewhere generally. If that ground is not connected, the relay no workey. Of course I could be wrong.

That should be the correct wire though.
Old 02-19-2013, 12:05 PM
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How do I by pass the neutral safety switch since I domt have one and get the yellow wire connected to the purple wire after the switch


Old 02-19-2013, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FakeSnake
How do I by pass the neutral safety switch since I domt have one and get the yellow wire connected to the purple wire after the switch


Looks like you can bypass the switch by splicing the purple and the ppl/wht wires connecting the the left side of the transmission. Is any of the factory harness intact?

On second thought, it looks like you can do it all right there at the underhood fuse block. Find the 10A crank fuse, identify which side is power and which side is load, use a multimeter on continuity to find the wire coming out the back side that has continuity with the load side of the fuse, cut it and splice with the wire going to 85 circuit of the relay.
Old 02-20-2013, 07:22 PM
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this was definitely alot easier than i was making it. the purple wire at E2 and the purple/white wire at F11 get spliced together for an original 2.2 auto truck to bypass what used to be the PRNDL switch. once i did this i got voltage to the thick purple wire that goes to the starter solenoid. i hope this helps some one else as it kicked my *** for a bit before i realized how easy it was.


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Old 02-20-2013, 07:28 PM
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Engine and tranny are in for good now. I need a radiator and cant seem to find a direct fit dual pass. anyone know of one for a reasonable price?






Old 02-20-2013, 11:58 PM
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I have a set of 4.10 gears and locker for a 8.8 with 28 spline for 100 + shipping. Has less than 3000 miles. Everything is in excelent shape. I decided to use my factory s10 rearend and now these parts are just taking up room. Pm me for any questions.
Old 02-21-2013, 05:56 AM
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thanks, but no thanks. The axle I have already has 4.10 gears.Ill get the locker from my dads salvage yard when Iits time.
Old 02-21-2013, 07:47 PM
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got power going to the starter solenoid when keyed to start and the 6010 wired up to a constant 12v. here are the two wires that will need to be connected for a neutral safety bypass when running a manual valve body trans.


Old 02-22-2013, 09:38 PM
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Did you cut the rear down or leave it the stock width?
Old 02-23-2013, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 97s10ls
Did you cut the rear down or leave it the stock width?
stock width. it fits perfect
Old 02-23-2013, 09:16 AM
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I assume the rear end is still an explorer bolt pattern?
Old 02-24-2013, 12:50 PM
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still the 5x4.5 pattern. i used replica mustang wheels with an offset of +45 millimeters and a backspace of 7.27 inch. i have yet to start looking for a drive shaft but should be able to come up with a factory unit from something and just use conversion joints to mate the 4L80 to the ford 8.8 flange.
Old 02-25-2013, 08:58 PM
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ladies and gentlemen my new gauges installed in the dash trim. lets hear some feedback on what you think!











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