Single Owner 1973 Datsun 240Z Build Thread
07-31-2013, 02:15 PM
#62
Staging Lane
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After breaking the stub axle (and realizing the only thing holding my wheel on was my brake caliper) I did upgrade to Z31T CVs, custom axles, 39 spline stubs/companions. Nice setup and noticeably smoother.
07-31-2013, 02:54 PM
#63
Launching!
Here is a link to the ones I was talking about. They are the bees knees. My friend with a 380 RWHP SR 510 and his brother with the 500hp RB 260 are using them.
http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index...d=72&Itemid=61
http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index...d=72&Itemid=61
02-17-2014, 07:25 AM
#70
Beautiful beautiful beautiful. make me a set of those headers, would you?
Wish I had your time and energy, and car!
BTW, I wouldn't worry about the U joints for your application. I'm running CV's but only because I found a turbo ZX rear in a pick and pull and couldn't resist. I ran 20+ year old solid datsun U joints for 5-6 years on an 440 HP LS2 with no issues. As long as they are in good shape and the rest of the suspension isn't shot they will hold up. I've read of guys routinely running 9 second passes with U joints, but they need to be replaced regularly for that type of use.
Keep the pics coming.
Wish I had your time and energy, and car!
BTW, I wouldn't worry about the U joints for your application. I'm running CV's but only because I found a turbo ZX rear in a pick and pull and couldn't resist. I ran 20+ year old solid datsun U joints for 5-6 years on an 440 HP LS2 with no issues. As long as they are in good shape and the rest of the suspension isn't shot they will hold up. I've read of guys routinely running 9 second passes with U joints, but they need to be replaced regularly for that type of use.
Keep the pics coming.
02-17-2014, 07:29 AM
#71
One other bit of advice but you may want to move the O2 bung to the top of the exhaust pipe. O2 sensors can crack if they get hot then hit with a slug of water/condensate during start up. At least that is what I have read.
02-17-2014, 09:10 AM
#72
Thanks for the compliments guys. Its actually not my car, I am building it for a relative in California. I will definitely be sad to see this one leave!
As for the O2s, I don't think they would get to much water hitting them where they are right now, but there will be a "belly pan" going on the bottom of the engine bay that should prevent that all together.
I will say I have seen O2s mounted every which way and I have never personally seen one fail like you speak of before, but anything is possible!
I think the U-joints will live just fine in this application as well. The only thing I am slightly worried about is will they cause any audible harmonics. Hopefully not, but we will see. I don't know what the working angles will be yet, as the car is not at full weight yet.
As for the O2s, I don't think they would get to much water hitting them where they are right now, but there will be a "belly pan" going on the bottom of the engine bay that should prevent that all together.
I will say I have seen O2s mounted every which way and I have never personally seen one fail like you speak of before, but anything is possible!
I think the U-joints will live just fine in this application as well. The only thing I am slightly worried about is will they cause any audible harmonics. Hopefully not, but we will see. I don't know what the working angles will be yet, as the car is not at full weight yet.
02-17-2014, 05:39 PM
#74
Do NOT install the Bung below the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position.
Condensation can form in the exhaust pipe and permanently damage the sensor.
6 o’clock is the absolute worst position to mount the sensor
Condensation can form in the exhaust pipe and permanently damage the sensor.
6 o’clock is the absolute worst position to mount the sensor
02-17-2014, 10:57 PM
#75
Space is very limited around the headers. Where they are is about the only spot they will fit.
I suppose a horizontal tube would probably be a bad place to mount a sensor at the 6 o clock position, but I can't see much harm in mounting one at 6 o clock in a tube at an angle of +30 degrees. Especially when they are up close where the gas is still hot.
02-22-2014, 01:43 AM
#76
Replaced the hex head alternator bolt with an allen head bolt for more belt clearance.
Got the cruise control box mounted.
Made a threaded throttle cable end to pass thru the firewall. (The hole in the firewall was too large for the oem ls1 throttle cable end.)
Got the oem datsun engine bay harness thinned down to just the horn and windshield wiper wires. Everything else is getting wired from scratch.
Spent the better part of today planning out the A/C plumbing and doing some research. Im waiting on some parts still, but Im hoping to make a lot of headway in the engine bay next week.
Got the cruise control box mounted.
Made a threaded throttle cable end to pass thru the firewall. (The hole in the firewall was too large for the oem ls1 throttle cable end.)
Got the oem datsun engine bay harness thinned down to just the horn and windshield wiper wires. Everything else is getting wired from scratch.
Spent the better part of today planning out the A/C plumbing and doing some research. Im waiting on some parts still, but Im hoping to make a lot of headway in the engine bay next week.
Last edited by tylert14; 02-22-2014 at 01:49 AM.
02-22-2014, 02:05 AM
#78
A raggedy old fake woodgrain bound booklet with yellowed pages full of typewritten font and hand drawn sketches. I guess this is a 1970s era "pdf" lol!
02-22-2014, 08:28 PM
#79
The owner sent all of his old stuff with the car when he shipped it to me, one of them is an old installation manual for installing a sbc from "Nordskog Competition Products"
A raggedy old fake woodgrain bound booklet with yellowed pages full of typewritten font and hand drawn sketches. I guess this is a 1970s era "pdf" lol!
A raggedy old fake woodgrain bound booklet with yellowed pages full of typewritten font and hand drawn sketches. I guess this is a 1970s era "pdf" lol!
07-26-2014, 02:53 PM
#80
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
I have a certain way I go about managing sound. The main thing is mass. The more mass between you and the sound, the less sound. There's really no alternative, at least in automotive (limited space) applications. Not many places will tell you this, but its the truth. The mass loaded vinyl (MLV) I use is 1lb per sq ft. I believe its somewhere between 1/8 or 3/16 thick. [I'd tell u exactly but I'm in the mountains with sketchy service right now.]
There are slightly denser MLV options, but they are much higher priced, and not much denser. The only cost effective alternative is lead, but lead does not like having adhesive applied to it which presents a problem in cases where adhesively applied carpet, etc need applied over it.
My best results are with CLD tiles (bubble gum consistency) applied in a single layer with 100% coverage, doubling and sometimes tripling up in the center of very resonant panels (only double/ tripling in a small portion of the panel in its center.)
Follow the CLD tiles with a closed cell foam to decouple the CLD tiles from the final top layer of MLV. You just don't want the MLV touching the surface that is amplifying sound. This step is less critical, and is the only step you could consider skipping.
The final top layer of MLV is the most important part. Mass turns sound waves into heat. The more mass the better. MLV, lead, cement, whatever your space permits. The more mass the better. It is important however to stop panels from resonating before attempting to block sound with mass.
There are slightly denser MLV options, but they are much higher priced, and not much denser. The only cost effective alternative is lead, but lead does not like having adhesive applied to it which presents a problem in cases where adhesively applied carpet, etc need applied over it.
My best results are with CLD tiles (bubble gum consistency) applied in a single layer with 100% coverage, doubling and sometimes tripling up in the center of very resonant panels (only double/ tripling in a small portion of the panel in its center.)
Follow the CLD tiles with a closed cell foam to decouple the CLD tiles from the final top layer of MLV. You just don't want the MLV touching the surface that is amplifying sound. This step is less critical, and is the only step you could consider skipping.
The final top layer of MLV is the most important part. Mass turns sound waves into heat. The more mass the better. MLV, lead, cement, whatever your space permits. The more mass the better. It is important however to stop panels from resonating before attempting to block sound with mass.
Did you glue the CCF to the CLD tiles?
Andrew