DIY Harness,need wiring instructions.

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Dec 13, 2012 | 08:43 AM

#21

BP Automotive

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Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491

Last edited by BP Automotive; Jan 28, 2013 at 05:07 PM.

Dec 13, 2012 | 09:00 AM

#22

MightyAl

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I just found the delphi catalog for all the modular fuse box pieces and I am in all kinds of heaven. I have been wanting to redo my fuse box and this is exactly what I need.

Here is the catalog:
http://delphi.com/pdf/contact/brochu...balCatalog.pdf

The excitement I am feeling at finding this just reminds me that I am just a giant geek inside.

Dec 13, 2012 | 09:29 AM

#23

BP Automotive

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From: Columbia, Kentucky

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Dec 13, 2012 | 09:34 AM

#24

69 Ghost

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Get a set a crimpers from your favorite Mail Order company. The Casper's crimpers are about $30. Connectors, pins, etc are all had a Mouser individually or again Casper's as kits. With the harness, a wiring diagram, you can easily convert your harness. What most guys do not realize is that the engine bay harness on the 4th gens is a great place to tie into with an original harness. You will have all the fuses, relays, etc. If you did not get the engine bay harness you can usually pick one up for less than $50 on ebay. It takes some work but it is well worth it. You will have everything the aftermarket guys either leave out or charge you extra for. I have some spreadsheet data for connections if anybody needs one for an entire 4th gen harness converson.

Dec 13, 2012 | 09:41 AM

#25

BP Automotive

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From: Columbia, Kentucky

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Dec 13, 2012 | 09:49 AM

#26

MightyAl

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BP Automotive

Yes, that is the catalog. However, you will be disappointed to find out that the 16.2mm centerline buss bar that goes into the fuse block can only be bought in quantities of 2200. yes, that is not a typo. 2200. Thats over $700 in just one component.

Where there is a will there is a way. Thanks for the heads up.

Dec 13, 2012 | 09:54 AM

#27

BP Automotive

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Dec 13, 2012 | 09:59 AM

#28

MightyAl

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BP Automotive

Your welcome, you must be hardcore diy. You can get an assembled ready to go unit from me for $150 and call it a day. However, if you still choose to do your own, I will help you if you have questions.

I have been looking at replacing my stock fuse box in the engine bay for awhile. It is chunky, ugly, and way to big for what it holds. I still need to see what I need to have. Your fuse box might work but I will need to have some maxi fuses to replace my fusible link catridges. I have a 100amp, 40amp, and 30amp. I need to sit down with my manual and make a list.

As far as hardcore DIY, you could say so. I used to convert wiring harnesses for 1jz swaps 8 years ago. I did so many I saw the connections in my head.

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Dec 13, 2012 | 10:07 AM

#29

BP Automotive

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From: Columbia, Kentucky

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Dec 13, 2012 | 10:49 AM

#30

Jones'n

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BP Automotive

Or you can buy them in any quantity you want for a few cents a piece from Mouser.com
part number 12110646-L

Dec 13, 2012 | 11:27 AM

#31

BP Automotive

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Dec 13, 2012 | 11:36 AM

#32

MightyAl

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BP Automotive

The L is for loose piece,if you purchase that they will come cut. They will NOT come as a buss bar. You have to buy a reel. What's the price for a reel?

$0.296 ea minimum order 2000. I already checked.

Loose would definitely defeat the purpose as you would have to wire each and every one of them.

Dec 13, 2012 | 11:47 AM

#33

BP Automotive

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Dec 13, 2012 | 01:20 PM

#34

Pop N Wood

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BP Automotive

I agree, sometimes companies make bad decisions to spare some money. But that also supports some of what I was saying. My point on a lot of it was that if for example the 4 fuses was enough to run everything GM would do it, think of all the money that would save them!

And with the argument of butt connector over solder. If it was just as good to use a butt connector they would do that because I would save time and money!

However, for the most part now a days the harnesses that GM puts out are of great quality. I do see some things that I dont like in them, things that could have been tidied up some so to say. But then again im a picky sun of a gun.

Sometimes it isn't even the cheapest route. Sometimes they do stuff just because of internal politics, because they have always done it that way or just because they ran out of time to do it right. You buy stuff in lots of 2200. They add a few more zeros to that, so they tend to use what they have. Jap cars wire every car for every available option. That saves them money in the long run even when they use it on a cars with no options.

I absolutely agree the quality of modern FI electronics is quite good. Cars have gotten so expensive that it is now worth putting money into them so they last awhile. Hate to say it, but the feds are responsible for some of that.

I also agree that butt connectors are useless, soldering connections is the only way motor heads should wire their hot rods and to always use the proper wire. I will go a step further and say never hook a wire to the chassis, always run two wires to every load. And don't tape harnesses. That is so 1960's..

Again, you are producing a quality product at a reasonable price. I feel for you trying to convince people of that because most people don't see all the expenses until they get into the details of collecting every piece. Plus so few people realize just how expensive it is to run a legal business these days. People like you keep the sport alive.

Dec 13, 2012 | 01:22 PM

#35

Pop N Wood

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By the way, high end car audio sites are great sources for all sorts of fuse holders and power distribution boxes. Some of them even have built in voltmeters with digital displays.

Dec 13, 2012 | 05:43 PM

#36

BOXCHEV

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What "harness" tape are you guys using?

I had 3M Super 33+ but I'm going to remove it from the little bit of wiring that I did cover. Read that it just turns into a gooey mess like any other tape. Same for 3M Super 88. I guess these two would be more suited for inside the car wiring.

How about this?

http://www.wiringharness.com/harnesstape.htm