DIY Harness,need wiring instructions.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 71403

I held out and caught a Packard crimp tool (repair type) on greedBay when I did my E38. If you don't have it already here's link to the J-38125 manual

http://www.weber.edu/wsuimages/autom...%20Booklet.pdf

Note Pin 73 on X1 is a different terminal with a different crimp.

Do you know if the E38 ECM pins can be crimped with the same tool as the Metri-Pack 150s?

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01-18-2013, 05:16 PM

#83

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Quote:

Originally Posted by -TheBandit-

Do you know if the E38 ECM pins can be crimped with the same tool as the Metri-Pack 150s?

Technically "no", but I didn't try it. The crimp bed on the MX tooling looks tighter than the MP tooling. Comparing the terminals the crimp wings are shorter on the MX terminals and do not have fingers like the MP terms.

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01-18-2013, 11:51 PM

#84

BOXCHEV

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BOXCHEV

Anyone here ever delete the coil pack connector and just 'hardwire' them into the harness??

I was looking at my harness layout on the motor and wanted to try and make it a little cleaner.

For example all the pink wires, well all the wires actually to each coil pack run into a splice. And then into one wire for the connector pin.

Was trying to figure out if I should splice them like this...

Not trying to look pretty, just example. Of course I would solder all splices

Or maybe like this, all the wires meet in the middle there with a little solder. Doubt I could ever get it like the factory splice where there is no solder at all I believe. So 4 lines to each coil, then stepped down into one wire that leads to the PCM.

This slice has some adhesive heat shrink tape around it, then some 1/4in clear adhesive lined dual wall heat shrink over it, tried to make it as sealed as possible from water, then some cheap thin black heat shrink I have over all that. Went a little OD I guess.

Went with option #2

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01-19-2013, 06:46 AM

#85

BOXCHEV

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Are my solder joints worthy?

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01-22-2013, 11:03 AM

#86

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That looks good to me. You might add more solder because I see some strands exposed. Can you show a photo of your multi-wire solder joints like the ones used for the coil packs?

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01-26-2013, 11:15 AM

#87

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How are you doing multiple wires into one terminal, for example going into a fuse or relay terminal?

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01-27-2013, 04:43 PM

#88

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BP Automotive

Not to bring back the argument, but I bought a set of $70 "repair" crimpers like the ones above (bottom of photo) from Waytek. I made some practice crimps on Metripack 280, Metripack 150, and Molex MX64 terminals. I can see why the "production" dies (top of photo) are so desireable. They have locators that keep the terminal from twisting. My 280 crimps look great - every bit as good as the factory ones. My 150 crimps look good, but they are not perfectly symmetric because the terminals sometimes rotate a bit as they engage the "W" crimp. My MX64 crimps are pretty bad - they do not follow the "W" very well in the die and often rotate over. I think a little prebending with needle nose would help, but it's got me thinking more about extending my existing wires instead of making fresh ones end to end.

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01-27-2013, 04:49 PM

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Edited

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Last edited by BP Automotive; 01-28-2013 at 05:04 PM.

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01-27-2013, 10:29 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by -TheBandit-

My MX64 crimps are pretty bad - they do not follow the "W" very well in the die and often rotate over.

Rotating terminal is sometimes a problem with the Delphi repair tools because of the way the jaws close - you learn to work around it. Ironically the cheapo tool is parallel jaw. I don't see a crimp tool for MX64 terminals in Waytek's current online catalog, which are you using on those terminals?

You could buy the correct Delphi repair tool on Ebay and sell it when you're done for about the same price. Less than $100, less time and better quality than a bunch of splices. Heck I should rent mine out

It's entirely possible to make a quality termination with repair tooling but it takes time and some skill.

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01-27-2013, 10:40 PM

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Edited

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Last edited by BP Automotive; 01-28-2013 at 05:04 PM.

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01-28-2013, 11:07 AM

#92

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 71403

I was trying the Waytek #509, Delphi 12155975 which runs about $70. It is made for 150 & 280 terminals, so I'm not surprised it doesn't work well on MX64. I did find a way to hold the terminal in a vise (with very little pressure) to keep it from rotating. That resulted in a decent crimp, but it's too wide/flat and doesn't fit well into the Molex connector body. I'm thinking about buying a set of the cheap crimpers to see if the parallel motion works better and if the shape is better for these terminals.

What do you do as a work around to prevent the terminal from rotating?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71403

You could buy the correct Delphi repair tool on Ebay and sell it when you're done for about the same price. Less than $100, less time and better quality than a bunch of splices. Heck I should rent mine out

Do you know which crimper that would be for the MX64s? I can't find a crimper that's advertised to do those terminals, other than from Molex for a few hundred bucks. I would love to pick one up.

-EDIT- Comments deleted

Last edited by -TheBandit-; 01-28-2013 at 04:16 PM.

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01-28-2013, 03:14 PM

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Last edited by BP Automotive; 01-28-2013 at 05:04 PM.

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01-28-2013, 04:45 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by -TheBandit-

What do you do as a work around to prevent the terminal from rotating?

Whatever it takes to get a good crimp and not damage the terminal. Vice works for you, most often I "pre-rotate" the terminal against the rotation of the tool.

Quote:

Originally Posted by -TheBandit-

Do you know which crimper that would be for the MX64s?

J-38125-641, the repair pdf I linked earlier shows it.

Alldata calls out the proper crimp nest for the respective terminals.

And +1 for your deleted comments!

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01-28-2013, 05:13 PM

#95

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Problem solved! The part number posted above will get you the kent moore tool for that terminal!

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01-28-2013, 05:27 PM

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Thanks 71403 for the help! I found one of those on eBay for $65 and jumped on it. I'll give your "pre-rotation" technique a try too.

On an unrelated note, are the GT 150 crimps different from the metri-pack 150 crimps? I made the rookie mistake of buying MP 150 terminals which are incorrect for most of the connectors I'm running onto.

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01-28-2013, 05:29 PM

#97

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Quote:

Originally Posted by -TheBandit-

Yes they are different. Delphi Repair Tool Number 15359996. Mouser Has it.

$137.33

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01-28-2013, 05:40 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BP Automotive

Problem solved! The part number posted above will get you the kent moore tool for that terminal!

So much for "unsubscribed". Enough is enough: your incessant commenting about soldering the repair connections is nothing more than a bump for your wiring business. Editing your reply to remove the comment really doesn't say much for your professional conduct.

If you truly wanted to help the community which you denigrate as "lurkers", you could have posted the J-38125 manual, provided the information for the correct tool, or even posted the correct crimp nest designations for the MX64 terminals.

Too bad you didn't step up to the plate, instead you used my knowledge (again) as an excuse to plug your business.

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01-28-2013, 05:50 PM

#99

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 71403

Seriously? Like I didnt post enough in this thread. And I dont really advertise on here, I just try and make sure members have the right info. I edited my posts because some people deemed them as pushy or what have you. So I just edited them, I posted more than enough. Actually I had posted exponentially more than you had. But hey, you stepped up to the plate and done more than I had.

I did unsubscribe, but I saw his reply in the thread and answered his question. Did this in anyway warrant you trying to flame me? No. Have I been unprofessional in anyway? No. I simply deleted what I had put into the thread, and from what you stated wasnt much- so no loss anyway. Right?

Ill let you take the reins from here!

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01-28-2013, 06:01 PM

#100

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