thatredgt

well got the motor started today its only running on 7 cylinders cuz im missing a spark plug wire for it. and when I first got the motor i put some oil in the cylinders then rotated the motor to lube the cylinder walls a little since i didnt know how long the motor has been sitting so im hoping thats the only reason its smoking. geuss well find out wen it gets put in the car and i can run it longer.

map sensor bracket, I have decided to go with a 4in cowl so im not worried bout hood clearances

thatredgt

update..
filled the block with coolant so i could run it a little longer. definetley running smoother on all 8 cylinders and no more smoke for the most part. it was about 10degrees out when i took this video. the smoke you see is from the copper rtv and some oil that was on the manifolds.







UPR ls swap solid motor mounts. I have had nothing but problems with UPR, my order has been screwed up twice so far, and the solid mounts dont even line up with their swap plates. I had to elongate the holes just to get the bolts in.



UPR chromoly kmember


lm7 oil pan sticks way below the UPR kmember just like i expected. I mocked all this up so that i could take some measurments to make sure the oil pan i got would fit correctly

thatredgt

update*
haven't done much due to the car being outside, BUT Finally got the car in the garage today so now i can finish up the engine bay. interior is getting gutted tomorrow so i can repair the last 2 rust holes in the engine bay/front area so i can prep then paint the engine bay. does anyone have any opinions on a good strong engine bay paint? not looking for anything very expensive though.


First big snow of the season, and maybe the last? haha


finally moved it into the garage


I have a spot like this on both sides to take care of and then I can prep and paint the engine bay.

booboo37

iTrader: (43)

Just be glad you didn`t get a Team Z k-member...

thatredgt

Whats the problem with those? Can't remember hearing anything about them.

booboo37

iTrader: (43)

The only GM oil pan that fits the team z k-member is the truck oil pan but it hangs way to low......so now you have to use a $500 Moroso oil pan with a $200 oil filter relocation kit...People are pissssed.......you could cut and weld the f-body pan but now your making it about 4 quarts.....not good..

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

Don't put any stock in this guy's opinions. All he does is go to every thread he can and bad mouth Team-Z. He obviously had a bad experience with them. Just look at his other posts and you'll see.

Referring to booboo37, not you

booboo37

iTrader: (43)

I speak the truth so whats the problem ??? Is there something i said that was wrong ??? Did you get your new LS motor mounts from Dave for your Mustang yet ??? Why where you selling your new Team Z LS motor mounts ??

I`m just helping other people out ...........i don`t want them to make the same mistake that you did and a freind of mine......

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

No mistake on my end. I purchased Team-Z because I wanted a quality built product, and AJE doesn't meet that qualification for me. My truck pan worked with the mounts that came from Team-Z, but it hung too low for me, which is the case no matter which K-member you use. Your statement (many times) that the only option is a $500 pan is incorrect. I actually had another member build me some mounts that set the motor back 1". This opens up pan options. The only pan known to not work with the Team-Z is the F-body. So for people running a Team-Z, congratulations on purchasing a quality product from a quality company. Lets not tie this guys thread up. If you want to debate, start a new thread. But if you come to debate, come with first hand knowledge and facts. Don't come with something you heard from a friend. Bring experience.

booboo37

iTrader: (43)

So you bought a quality built Team Z LS k member but you sold the motor mounts because you had to make new ones.....lol.....you put your foot in your own mouth....

My only beef is that Dave is telling all these kids and guys to use the truck oil pan so he can sell his k-member and he knows theres a problem with it........5 months ago he had people thinking that he was going to modify the ls mounts or k-member.......5 month later he STILL has done nothing and he is STILL telling all these kids and guys to use the truck pan..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...options-3.html

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...ber+ls+fitment

thatredgt

thanks for the input from both of you guys. But if your not going to talk about things related to my thread, take it somewhere else. I dont need a random argument on my thread. thanks

thatredgt

well gutted half the interior today, found some more rust. SHOCKER haha but the floorpans are not as bad as i feared. I had a problem with watter getting in and sitting in the back seat as well as the front sometimes. but it looks like no problems in the front and only a spot or 2 of major rust in the rear floor. I also scrapped all the sound deadening? off of the floor to see what I was working with.








drilled out the rivets and welds that were holding the seat brace to get at the rust under it


seat brace

TxFireman1972

iTrader: (8)

I do apologize. Its an ongoing arguing argument between us, and should never have cluttered up your thread with it.

Was scraping that sound deadening a pain? I hear it works good to use dry ice on it, then it chips right up.

thatredgt

no the sound deadening came up very easily, i just used a blunt chisel with my hand or a hammer if it was giving me problems, but most of it came up without a fight

red04montels

iTrader: (1)

Very nice progress so far!

thatredgt

its been awhile since i updated anything, just been going one step at a time, the drivers side is basically done im going to put another coat or 2 of paint inside the rocker panel before i weld the final piece on the corner. I also moved the car over so I could strip the passenger side and start on the passenger corner. its in pretty rough shape, but ill do the best I can with it. its not guna be anywhere near perfect but it will be better then what I started with.






cleaned up the floored boards with a wire wheel and rust treatment, the rust treatment turns black at times.

gm-ntmr

iTrader: (1)

Work looks great, I'm not trying to start anything I am just wondering why you started with that shell mustangs are a dime a dozen just looks like alot of work! But work looks great!

chiaj144

iTrader: (4)

Are you planing a mini tub to get those tires to fit? I had to beat the crap out of my wheel wells to get my 275/18's to fit.

thatredgt

I would love to have started with a rust free body. But I purchased ths car when I was 17 its my first car and even tho its in bad shape I am doing my best to keep her alive

thatredgt

No minitub, the quad shocks will be removed and the inner fenders were already beaten in to fit 275 bfg drag radials on ten hole rims. I test fit my new 17in ponyr rims with some old 315 m/t and it did need a little more massaging but they do fit.