hoopty

The factory manifolds will work but I had to clearance the right floor board for clearance for the right manifold to work with an exhaust pipe. The left manifold needed to have the 02 sensor removed and then I installed a screw in pipe plug "I got the plug from a local exhaust shop" Then I heated the left manifold an sank the area with the plug a little so the steering shaft could have clearance.

hoopty

Here are some pics of my motor mounts. I used the steel mounts that are bolted to the block from a 1971 chevy 1/2 ton truck with a 454. I turned them upside down and bolted them to the mustang K frame and then made the engine mounts out of steel plate. I measured and then cut two flat pieces and then drilled the 4 holes to mount them to the block then lowered the engine into place with shims sitting between the rack and oil pan. I made the "ears" the last 2 pieces of steel that went from the flat steel plates that were bolted to the block that fit inside of the steel cups motor mounts that are bolted to the k frame.I had the trans tail shaft supported to keep everything at the correct angle. As you can see when the front fascia and the radiator is removed there is ample access to the engine. I have a Autolifters rack to raise and lower the car so it wasn't to difficult to do.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Yeah pretty sure you could do this on a serious budget if you get the car for the right price. I picked up my coupe for under $1000 and if I was just running a completely bone stock motor and trans could have had it up and running for another $1500-$2000. Figure if you get a 5.3 you can have them for under $500 if you do some looking. Trans, again under $500 if you go auto. $500 for a stand alone harness. Then it just depends on if you make your own mounts of go the Kmember route. If you are good at making stuff work, it can be done on the cheap Oh, don't forget Fbody gauges for about $100