Cam,intake,exhaust 5.3/4LXXE '85 C10! PIC HEAVY!!!
05-24-2013, 02:27 AM
#61
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I am currently running about 4-5" drop in the rear. Shackle and hanger kit, and leaves taken out of the C20 rear springs. Thinking of going back to standard hangers and shackles, and doing a flip, and see how that sits for a start.
05-24-2013, 03:30 PM
#62
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can you explain what the shacklea and hangers do I haven't really looked into it all that much
05-24-2013, 07:11 PM
#63
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The rear of rear spring has a swinging shackle that I would say is inverted(goes upwards).
By making that shackle longer, it lowers the rear ride height. At the front of the rear spring where it mounts is the hanger, after market ones reposition the spring eye position so as to raise the front of the spring which in turn lowers the vehicle. Usually get 2" with hanger, and 2" with shackles. All of that still sits the diff under the spring.
Ultimate lowering requires a flip kit which then puts the diff on top of the spring. Most of these require the chassis to be cut, and a "c" section fitted. You the dont need the hangers and shackles if a flip if fitted.
Most seem to be going airbag suspensions these days.
By making that shackle longer, it lowers the rear ride height. At the front of the rear spring where it mounts is the hanger, after market ones reposition the spring eye position so as to raise the front of the spring which in turn lowers the vehicle. Usually get 2" with hanger, and 2" with shackles. All of that still sits the diff under the spring.
Ultimate lowering requires a flip kit which then puts the diff on top of the spring. Most of these require the chassis to be cut, and a "c" section fitted. You the dont need the hangers and shackles if a flip if fitted.
Most seem to be going airbag suspensions these days.
05-24-2013, 07:15 PM
#64
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You have to be carefull of dropping the front too far, as the crossmember will drag on the ground if too low. Most seem to use the "new" IFS suspension assemblies. if going real low.
06-05-2013, 10:41 PM
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06-05-2013, 10:45 PM
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Got my dirty dingo idler pulley re locator, the corvette accessories will have to come later, also ordered my wiring loom from keep it clean wiring , and a bunch of stuff from current performance and a tcc switch from psi. hopefully have this running mid to end July. My list keeps getting shorter every week and longer because I forget about things!
06-06-2013, 10:52 PM
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06-08-2013, 04:16 AM
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I would think so. I think 4" rear drop is about it before needing a C notch. Maybe someone else can help out here, but all my reading tells me that info.
You "may" get away with it, try it 1st. Will need to trim the bump stop rubbers.
Mine bangs at the rear on the bump rubbers over small sudden bumps at 4".
You "may" get away with it, try it 1st. Will need to trim the bump stop rubbers.
Mine bangs at the rear on the bump rubbers over small sudden bumps at 4".
06-17-2013, 12:57 AM
#72
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I got my wire loom and soldered in my EV6 injector plugs. Also received a bunch of pigtails and my standalone fuse relay module from current performance 
06-20-2013, 06:08 PM
#73
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Hey I'm going to be helping a friend of mine do the same swap. How much do you think you'll be spending on the total cost of the build from start to finish?
06-20-2013, 08:28 PM
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Are you doing just a stock motor or are you doing the cam,intake exhaust, convertor,griffin rad, AC? so far im at $5,316 probably another 1500 till im done
Last edited by LSx '85 C10; 06-20-2013 at 09:38 PM.
06-22-2013, 12:10 AM
#76
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okay so with stock motor, no performance other than my headers I'm at 2606.61 and I haven't done the ac but, it's gonna be around 250 and my wiring harness was chopped up so it may counter act the 250 from the ac depending on the condition of your harness, but remember a tune and pcm flash. I'm getting mine done for 400 flash and tune together so search around and find a good tuner because I found a few that were outrageous but I never saw any reviews and the guy I'm going to use is pretty well known, also I think an adapter of some sort will need to be used for the torque convertor to fly wheel. Depending on the radiator you get from griffin or who ever ,I have 550 in the budget for an aluminum radiator with electric fans also you may need a different power steering pump if you get a hydro boost pump on your motor to use the stock vacuum booster off the truck, that's not in my total but will be added next week along with a new F-body water pump. So basically all the little **** I forget about gets really expensive. if you decide to do the Schoenfeld swap headers for 88-99 they're pretty cheap, only about 300 with shipping they're close to the Drivers side control arm is the only issue I've seen but they fit like a glove if you use the correct motor mounts. If you have any questions feel free to ask!
06-28-2013, 08:52 PM
#77
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Got my torque convertor 3000-3200 278mm from Circle D
also got a set of ratchet wrenches from napa since i don't have any they'll be a huge help
Been practicing my mig welding lately on a banshee project I've been building at work
also got a set of ratchet wrenches from napa since i don't have any they'll be a huge help
Been practicing my mig welding lately on a banshee project I've been building at work
06-29-2013, 12:05 AM
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I also got some measurements and the smaller c notch that doesn't protrude into the bed will give me the same clearance that I have with my stock suspension if I were to drop it 7 inches in the rear so I think that's the direction I'm headed in Last edited by LSx '85 C10; 06-29-2013 at 02:13 AM.