Fierofly

iTrader: (1)

Nope, I'm still getting the P0507 code randomly, It doesn't seem to effect it, so I just reset it and drive it. Thanks on the HP tuners, I still have not tuned it and don't really know how to use HP Tuners, I need to take the time and learn one of these days, I'm just driving it. Got about 10k miles now. I'd like to do a Limited slip next and started doing some research on it.

BLKMGK

Don't go with the factory LSD for sure. Wave track makes a good one and there's another that's expensive with tunable ramps for decel and accel but I can't recall the name, G something? :-(

mariusl

Guard?

http://www.guardtransmissionllc.com/products/limited-slip-differentials/

BLKMGK

Yes! Whew, thought I was losing my mind. Two different types of clutch mechanisms in those, Guard seems pretty adjustable and many road race guys seem to like them. Wavetrack seems used more for street cars and might not hold as much power but for Porsche that tends to be 4figures, torque handling would be a concern. Much over 600ftlbs and the G50 trans can have issues, 5th and 6th are weaker. Guys have snapped axles too and extreme folks have snapped hubs road racing. Stronger pieces exist, I would at least have a set of axles on hand if you launch it. Oh and even decently warmed 3.6 motors will lift the front end with decent tires so be prepared for that if you launch the car as I expect you'll be able to do that easily too lol.

Hmm are you using a G50 from a turbo car or one from an NA car? G50 I hope!

Fierofly

iTrader: (1)

Hope are you using a G50 from a turbo car or one from an NA car? G50 I hope![/QUOTE]

That's my research, I'm using the stock 996 C4S Tranny, I'm thinking the G50 has a different bolt pattern and won't bolt up to my adaptor plate, so I need to decide if LSDing the 996 tranny is worth it or do I need a G50 and a new adaptor plate, then I'll figure out the axles also.

4LUX

That's my research, I'm using the stock 996 C4S Tranny, I'm thinking the G50 has a different bolt pattern and won't bolt up to my adaptor plate, so I need to decide if LSDing the 996 tranny is worth it or do I need a G50 and a new adaptor plate, then I'll figure out the axles also.[/QUOTE]

The best bet would be to switch to the G96.50 transaxle out of the Turbo car, that way you retain you AWD.

BLKMGK

Don't get too excited about the AWD. It's purely mechanical if you use the stock 996 stuff and requires that the front wheels (99% sure) be slightly taller than the rear within a specific percent. Most of the front diffs aren't doing much these days and they aren't super strong, viscous fluid transfers power forward after there's enough slip. Size tires wrong and they either never engage or burn up from being constantly engaged. The 997 unit is electronic and can be engaged with the right ecu and bolts in on a 996 turbo car, not sure on your's. Many owners remove the shaft going forward or remove the front diff altogether for a decent weight savings and much less drag. Some go so far as to use GT2 uprights to obtain better geometry. An LSD when RWD is a must though!

IMO the turbo trans is worth it but research costs as its not cheap to beef up either, I'm on the cusp of needing it myself (3.6l over 600hp pump and over 730 E85). I will likely be running a Wavetrack but serious guys run Guard.

Axles are easy, DriveshaftShop makes the only aftermarket ones I know about (G50). NOT cheap but they take serious abuse I'm told. Also have a decent lead time I've been told too, mint find a set used on 6speed.

Randy Bartlett

Great thread, i've really enjoyed it. I did the swap in my car in January and haven't been able to drive for more than 30 miles or so. I used the kit from renegade (power steering, water pump kit, mounting kit) but I cannot get it run cool, I've replaced my radiators with CSF and installed the center radiator. I sent my water pump to Meziere to have it tested and it was fine. I added a 3/4" restrictor in line before the coolant manifold and it made a slight difference but it still will not cool sufficiently. I'm trying to find any help. Is that your thermostat on the intake side of the coolant manifold?

Fierofly

iTrader: (1)

I've got my remote Thermostat 180% on the head exit, I've drilled a 1/8 hole in it to get constant movement, my temperature never gets over 208 on even the hottest days even without the center radiator. now remember as discussed earlier my C4S coolant hoses are opposite the C2's. Hope this helps.

Randy Bartlett

Thanks for the info. What is the gpm rating on the water pump you are using? I am running a Stewart EMP thermostat and it has the bypass holes pre-drilled, i've been thinking the coolant is flowing to fast when the thermostat is open and isn't allowing the coolant sufficient time through the radiators hence the reasoning for using a restrictor. I've always done VW's and am not real familiar with V8's but I don't believe using the ASA cam vs the hot cam would add enough heat to experience the problems that I am having. The temps here in AZ are in the 100's but there are plenty of cars using a similar setup. Talking to Steve at Renegade he said I shouldn't have any problems but I am stumped at this point having gone through the cooling system at least 20 times trying different things.

Randy Bartlett

I am contemplating what white out did and going to the LS3 water pump.

Fierofly

iTrader: (1)

Here's the link for the CVR Waterpump, I like the design better
http://cvrproducts.com/2014/product/...e-mount-black/

hayabusa

iTrader: (7)

Yeah me to ,ordered kit with ls3 pump.

Amille28

Randy, I have the Meiziere electric water pump and it is mounted up by the taillight. Mine is working fine.

The Porsches can overheat because of a large air pocket in the system. Before you spend a ton of money you need to bleed the system.
To do this you flip up the little metal tab on the top of the reservoir and allow the engine to heat up. Or if you have access to a vacuum pump you need to make sure you get the air out of the system.

Randy Bartlett

Do you have any pictures of how you mounted your water pump? I bled my system and it has made a difference but still will get hot if I shut the car down for a bit and then drive again. It seems like it is getting heat soaked. I will bleed it some more and see what happens. At least I can drive it now a bit and it's been close to 100 degrees for the past week. Thanks

Amille28

There was a post on 4LUX's thread about how to hook up the Porsche fans to the GM computer. What is running your electric fans? If I shut down the car and then make a short stop and come back my engine temp goes up to about 225 until I turn everything on and get going again.

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

Michael, regarding your AWD I believe my generation 997 has the same if not similar front differential viscous clutch system, wish I had the 997.2 version but will settle with what I got. How would you describe the driving experience? Does it get a pretty good grab launching or does the increased torque and power transfer effect the driving?

Fierofly

iTrader: (1)

Well since you asked, mine had around 67k on the original axles, not sure if that's why, but I only got a few K's on the car after the swap and the rt front outer CV let loose, so I've removed the front drive system, thinking some day I might reinstall something better. The plus is. I can install larger diameter tires in the back now. Your gonna need the taller tires to help with the gear ratio's. I really did think it launched better with the AWD system, but now it lets loose and raises the front end more. That's why my next expense will be a LSD of some sort, still researching.

BLKMGK

The viscous system needs to see specific differences in speed to lock. Many owners put the wrong sized tires on those cars and ruined the viscous fluid. I don't have the ratios handy but if the front tires aren't taller it's trouble. The later electronic version is better and on the turbo cars it's possible to retrofit although I've not done it. Many AWD owners go RWD with an LSD and lose the drag from the front drive system. Simply disconnecting it helps but removing it helps more.

Mevin

With the front drive disconnected, you also have the added benefit of being able to switch out the shock uprights. The turbo uprights are offset to accommodate the driveshafts while the GT2 (RWD turbo) or GT3 (RWD nonturbo) had more 'proper' uprights which go straight up. The difference in suspension geometry and 'feel' is substantial, with the proper uprights having a much more natural and intuitive feel on road and track.

Having driven a 996 GT2 vs my 996TT back to back, this is the first and most prominent difference I noticed between the two. Bump steer especially is terrible on the TT due to the uprights/geometry.

Just something to think about if you want to throw some more money at it.