tdishon

Mine was a crate LS3. I think all of them are a little off. It might be the transmissions?
I've had to dial in all manual transmissions. I have not found one that was dialed in from the start. I'm sure anyone can just bolt it up, but some will have problems faster than others.

ig109

I know the proper way to do it.. and how to check it.. I just never had the front plate available to check for center.. I also never could install my engine / trans as an assembly.. Had to install trans separate to have the proper clearance..

This time all of that will change.. Hoping since I didn't completely loose oil pressure this time that I can maybe salvage the crank..

ig109

Also this time I took the time to finish up all the little things that have been bugging me about the car.. Finished the AC hoses.. Mounted an air filter.. Mounted my home made stainless steel dual catch can setup.. So everything except for final wire looming is done.. I will get to that this winter while the engine is out..

I also plan to scoot the engine forward about 1/4 of an inch.. Just to allow the wire harness a little more breathing room between the firewall and the engine cylinder head..

Here's a crappy pic of the completely finished engine bay..

bigmandengo

iTrader: (21)

Great build! Your car is the best g-body turbo build Ive seen yet. There are practically zero sacrifices given for your turbo build. You kept the factory HVAC box and the fender wells. Not many builds do that. Once again, awesome looking build!

ig109

Thanks... I went into it knowing that to do the turbo I would have to be able to keep it all "stock".. Nobody likes seeing an engine bay with the fender liners hacked to death and then road grime all over.. and I am not about to drive a car around in the super humid summers here without AC..

My buddy's 3Kgt inspired this build.. Its got all the modern creature comforts and with all the mods he's done it will keep up with lambos and GTRS.. So I thought.. why can't an older GM car do all those things..

Again.. Thanks for the compliments.. Now if I could just get a good engine underneath all that fab work lol...

I figure this time I may build it myself.. rather than trusting a JY engine.. Just tough to decide I want to do bare bones and be happy with the power it makes.. or build the engine with forged pistons and P and P heads and turn the boost up a bit..

Decisions Decisions..

ig109

So since the last oil pressure failure the car has sat.. I am out of replacement parts and out of money.. I have started gathering parts and information for what to do next.. going to get the bellhousing centered to the engine this time with adjustable dowels.. ensure the clutch is all in the right place. Ensure that the repaired input shaft is onsize with the pilot bushing and that the sleeve that was machined for it hasn't walked off..

I have been thinking about just going and spending the money on a good built T56 from RPM Transmissions in Indy.. they are local so it would save me to shipping.. and they do great work from what I have been told..

The trans in the car is from a Camaro / firebird and had a bunch of miles on it. and is just tired..

It is also my plan to go ahead and have this block machined and honed for new pistons (forged) and gap all the rings right and put the 15psi spring in and another fuel pump in the tank on a 5psi come on switch..

I will also be completing the charge piping and installing a FMIC and putting the MAF where it belongs.. not right next to the throttle body..

So if anyone was curious or gives a damn that is what is happening..

stoning_volcom

iTrader: (6)

I live over in springfield illinois, and i drove my t56 over to rpm and spent the day over there hanging with jeremy and gettin to see my trans be put together. They are without a doubt the best shop around our area. If you have the money to get your trans done, take it to them and they will take care of you. I cannot even express the amount of customer service and the quality of there work. give them a call and speak to jeremy@rpmtransmissions tell him what your goals are and you might be able to just hang for the day.

also ive been very curious about the hx55 i build subarus and on my bros car we are using the holset H1c. I started to look into them once he bought his. great car bro keep up the good work!

onebadbowtie86

iTrader: (13)

Awesome build! I really like the wheels. Whats the cost to have them widened? I have been wanting to get a set for my mcss but only being 8" wide has held me back.

ig109

I plan to take it to them.. If for no other reason than I can go up in person..

ig109

It wasn't cheap but If I remember correctly it was like 110 a wheel.. You'd have to call them up and see.. They did a great job on them..

twinturbo496

iTrader: (2)

I'm sorry if I missed it somewhere in this thread but why did you use the HX 55? I have two of them, and I'm contemplating using one on stock 5.3

Also, very nice job on your car.

ig109

I work for Holset's Parent Company Cummins Inc.. and a test facility we were working with had an excess of HX55s that were available at the right price.. Mine is a 22CM housing so it is the largest non WG HX55.. If your's are smaller turbine housings then they would come on even faster.. Things are sized properly for a 5.3 / 6.0..

buktooth

Just to be clear, when you say they are sized properly for a 5.3 / 6.0, is that for a single hx55 or for a twin hx55's? I am also just starting the fab work for twin hx55's in a back halved Chevy II

twinturbo496

iTrader: (2)

Cool, I got mine from a friend at Case, they came off of FPT Cursor 9 engines. I think they have 16 cm exhaust housings.

ig109

I am using a single 22CM HX55.

Check the Holset tag and get me all the #s if you don't mind.. I would love to find the part # for that smaller housing in case I decide I want a bit faster spool. With a 5.3 that turbo should work fine hanging off one side.. the smaller housing might become a problem if you start pushing for serious power..

What are your goals?

twinturbo496

iTrader: (2)

10.20 @ 140. 3400 lbs

twinturbo496

iTrader: (2)

This is the turbine housing on both of the HX55 I have

"outside" I assumed that the "16" indicated 16 cm^2


"inside"

ig109

So I just brought this thing out of storage and parked in a local to me parking structure for temporary storage.. Intent is to work on it this winter.

The thing still runs.. the knock doesn't appear to be getting any worse. Weird thing is that if you fire it up and let it just sit and idle it is as quiet as a new truck (with a flowmaster).. Rev it at all and the rattle shows up.. It rattles for the first couple of seconds after you start it too.. and for a second after the engine coasts back to idle..

Anyone have one of these engines have a knock that goes away at idle?

It's the damndest thing..

I will run over there on lunch and take a video of the startup and the noise.. It is VERY audible..

ig109

Video of the noise.. Again. The video doesn't show it.. but when you first start it after it sits, it rattles until it gets to idle speed then stops.. Rattle then begins again once you rev the engine once..

Anyone willing to offer experience or comparable videos with repair experience please chime in.. give me a more solid idea of where to begin once I tear it down..

Oil is very clean FWIW.. not the silver paint that was present in the last engine.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a bad lifter to me.

Locate which side it is coming from, pull the valve cover, remove rocker arms and push rods, spray some b12 chemtool cleaner into the lifters with the straw, reassemble and check again. Or you could just go all out and replace the lifters.

How many miles on this engine?