Big engine in small car take 734985: LS1 Miata plus frivolous insanity.
04-05-2013, 03:05 PM
#21
Teching In
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March 31, 2013:
Hi guys!
I've made an alternator bracket:
See the lowest hole on the block that's almost in line with the lower hole on the alternator? A turnbuckle will go between those so that the assembly can serve as a belt tensioner. As it so happens, the spacing is perfect for that.
The alternator is supported both in the front and in the back on all axes. Once the long bolt is tightened down, the thing doesn't move...at all.
A new alternator bracket was necessary for a couple of reasons. First of all, I replaced the GTO crank pulley with a shorter Corvette/CTS-V/G8 crank pulley for more swaybar clearance. That meant that the alternator needed to be moved closer to the block so that the belt would line up properly. Some people mill down the stock alternator bracket to bring the alternator in further. I chose not to do that since I wanted the alternator so pivot as to serve as a belt tensioner. I removed the stock tensioner and the associated mounting tabs to make clearance for a coolant expansion tank that I bolted to the passenger side head. By making an adjustable alternator bracket, I killed two birds with one stone. All I have to do now for the accessory drive belt is fabricate a mount for an idler pulley so that the water pump is driven. Fortunately, that should be a simple task.
This doesn't look a whole lot like progress however the drivetrain no longer needed to be in for mockup purposes. Now I can finalize a few things in the bay, and before long, I'll be able to begin prepping it for paint. The next time the drivetrain goes in, it should be going in to stay.
Now for the weird bit. I've put a window in the upper frame rail. You know, so the frame rail gnomes can get some light and fresh air.
But no, the window is actually there for the fuel line and accusump oil line to be fed through.
The lines go through the frame rails, beneath the floor, such that they're protected from heat and impact, and I'm protected from them.
Most people put the lines in the transmission tunnel or under the car next to the frame rail. I don't like the tunnel route because it places the lines above a hot exhaust system. In addition to prolonged exposure to heat, a driveshaft failure could potentially split a line and almost certainly cause a fire since gravity, which tends to be pretty reliable, will cause the fuel to end up on the hot exhaust pipes beneath. That would be quite lousy. I don't think along the frame rail is a good place either since running a nylon braided line inches off the ground seems a poor choice due to the potential for bottoming out, road debris, and slow abrasion from particulates.
Hi guys!
I've made an alternator bracket:
See the lowest hole on the block that's almost in line with the lower hole on the alternator? A turnbuckle will go between those so that the assembly can serve as a belt tensioner. As it so happens, the spacing is perfect for that.
The alternator is supported both in the front and in the back on all axes. Once the long bolt is tightened down, the thing doesn't move...at all.
A new alternator bracket was necessary for a couple of reasons. First of all, I replaced the GTO crank pulley with a shorter Corvette/CTS-V/G8 crank pulley for more swaybar clearance. That meant that the alternator needed to be moved closer to the block so that the belt would line up properly. Some people mill down the stock alternator bracket to bring the alternator in further. I chose not to do that since I wanted the alternator so pivot as to serve as a belt tensioner. I removed the stock tensioner and the associated mounting tabs to make clearance for a coolant expansion tank that I bolted to the passenger side head. By making an adjustable alternator bracket, I killed two birds with one stone. All I have to do now for the accessory drive belt is fabricate a mount for an idler pulley so that the water pump is driven. Fortunately, that should be a simple task.
This doesn't look a whole lot like progress however the drivetrain no longer needed to be in for mockup purposes. Now I can finalize a few things in the bay, and before long, I'll be able to begin prepping it for paint. The next time the drivetrain goes in, it should be going in to stay.
Now for the weird bit. I've put a window in the upper frame rail. You know, so the frame rail gnomes can get some light and fresh air.
But no, the window is actually there for the fuel line and accusump oil line to be fed through.
The lines go through the frame rails, beneath the floor, such that they're protected from heat and impact, and I'm protected from them.
Most people put the lines in the transmission tunnel or under the car next to the frame rail. I don't like the tunnel route because it places the lines above a hot exhaust system. In addition to prolonged exposure to heat, a driveshaft failure could potentially split a line and almost certainly cause a fire since gravity, which tends to be pretty reliable, will cause the fuel to end up on the hot exhaust pipes beneath. That would be quite lousy. I don't think along the frame rail is a good place either since running a nylon braided line inches off the ground seems a poor choice due to the potential for bottoming out, road debris, and slow abrasion from particulates.
07-16-2013, 08:57 PM
#24
On The Tree
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Dela-Where?
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I chose to tube chassis my miata. But im also going turbo so there is much more power to deal with. I didnt think the unibody would deal with it well. Im still in the process.http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps403c0760.jpg Keep up the good work!
Last edited by miatainthe10s; 07-16-2013 at 09:03 PM.
