Advice on picking the right engine. Experienced swappers
04-24-2013, 04:56 PM
#21
Yeah, L33s do fetch a premium. Iron block 5.3s are MUCH cheaper. You can even get a 6.0 iron block cheaper than L33.
The extra weight, 75lbs?, of an iron block can be made up for in other ways for all but race cars.
You might want to avoid VVT and DOD too.
For reference, I got a waranteed 05 complete takeout with under 50k miles for about $900 shipped, and a 6.0 LQ9 (premium price for hi output 6.0) for about twice that. low mile iron block LQ4s can be found for quite a bit less.
The extra weight, 75lbs?, of an iron block can be made up for in other ways for all but race cars.
You might want to avoid VVT and DOD too.
For reference, I got a waranteed 05 complete takeout with under 50k miles for about $900 shipped, and a 6.0 LQ9 (premium price for hi output 6.0) for about twice that. low mile iron block LQ4s can be found for quite a bit less.
04-24-2013, 11:59 PM
#22
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Yeah, L33s do fetch a premium. Iron block 5.3s are MUCH cheaper. You can even get a 6.0 iron block cheaper than L33.
The extra weight, 75lbs?, of an iron block can be made up for in other ways for all but race cars.
You might want to avoid VVT and DOD too.
For reference, I got a waranteed 05 complete takeout with under 50k miles for about $900 shipped, and a 6.0 LQ9 (premium price for hi output 6.0) for about twice that. low mile iron block LQ4s can be found for quite a bit less.
The extra weight, 75lbs?, of an iron block can be made up for in other ways for all but race cars.
You might want to avoid VVT and DOD too.
For reference, I got a waranteed 05 complete takeout with under 50k miles for about $900 shipped, and a 6.0 LQ9 (premium price for hi output 6.0) for about twice that. low mile iron block LQ4s can be found for quite a bit less.
I know VVT as Variable Valve Timing...
04-28-2013, 11:35 PM
#24
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Yeah, L33s do fetch a premium. Iron block 5.3s are MUCH cheaper. You can even get a 6.0 iron block cheaper than L33.
The extra weight, 75lbs?, of an iron block can be made up for in other ways for all but race cars.
You might want to avoid VVT and DOD too.
For reference, I got a waranteed 05 complete takeout with under 50k miles for about $900 shipped, and a 6.0 LQ9 (premium price for hi output 6.0) for about twice that. low mile iron block LQ4s can be found for quite a bit less.
The extra weight, 75lbs?, of an iron block can be made up for in other ways for all but race cars.
You might want to avoid VVT and DOD too.
For reference, I got a waranteed 05 complete takeout with under 50k miles for about $900 shipped, and a 6.0 LQ9 (premium price for hi output 6.0) for about twice that. low mile iron block LQ4s can be found for quite a bit less.
I got a price quote for an L33 based engine with 77k miles all accessories 4l60e transmission all accessor with no core charge for $2,500
without accessories $2000
THis is about the same price for an LS1.
Im gonna start looking at Iron block engine to compare pricing
04-29-2013, 07:57 AM
#26
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Bad moves all around but lesson learned. This still fresh in my mind. I am installing in a 78 vette so, I ended up getting a 100K miles 6.0 and paid to much $1500 with no accessories or harness. Took the engine to a good builder in the area and explained what I wanted around 450 hp. He told me right then I paid to much ouch. Proceeded forward and tore the engine down and off to the machine shop for bore and boil. Bored 30 over new pistons, rods, cam and 3 angle valve job. Upgraded the oil pump while I am there. $2000 in parts and $1100 in machine shop labor, $800 for new gaskets and assembly. See where this is going.
Had a Holley EFI ECU and wiring harness which I originally was going to install a EFI on a SBC. I paid $1700. Kept the ECU but had to get the harness modified for fuel injection, $800. Still need the accessories so off the salvage yard for water pump, alt, starter $150 and need corvette PS $100 for the Holley Accessory brackets $350. Keep going. Intake Manifold LS6 $350 with TB and Injectors. I finally get around to hooking up and the injectors don't fit the harness $150 for different injectors. Along the way I have been $50 to $100 to death, but can't quit know.
Hope to start it up tonight or tomorrow but I learned the hard way and expensive way.
If I had to do it again knowing what I know I could see 2 options. Buy a already assembled short block and heads with the combo I want, and accessories for probably for probably 1/2 what I have in this.
Buy a used 5.3 complete with harness and tranny and accessories and drop it in.
Had a Holley EFI ECU and wiring harness which I originally was going to install a EFI on a SBC. I paid $1700. Kept the ECU but had to get the harness modified for fuel injection, $800. Still need the accessories so off the salvage yard for water pump, alt, starter $150 and need corvette PS $100 for the Holley Accessory brackets $350. Keep going. Intake Manifold LS6 $350 with TB and Injectors. I finally get around to hooking up and the injectors don't fit the harness $150 for different injectors. Along the way I have been $50 to $100 to death, but can't quit know.
Hope to start it up tonight or tomorrow but I learned the hard way and expensive way.
If I had to do it again knowing what I know I could see 2 options. Buy a already assembled short block and heads with the combo I want, and accessories for probably for probably 1/2 what I have in this.
Buy a used 5.3 complete with harness and tranny and accessories and drop it in.
Last edited by donnie_19; 04-29-2013 at 07:16 PM.
04-29-2013, 08:51 AM
#27
an ly6 2008 or older would be my choice , the newer ones have afm , or dod , thats active fuel management , and displacement on demand , both undesirable features , they are really the same thing .
vvt or variable valve timing is a great feature , you get the best of both worlds as far as cam choices , is like haveing a cam that will give great low end and great high end POWER in the same engine , whats not to love .
Donnie , you got screwed , you could have got a create engine with wires and computer from mast for less than 7000 , less time and money spent you would have been ahead of the game , mast calls it their ly6ho , its got 480 hp
vvt or variable valve timing is a great feature , you get the best of both worlds as far as cam choices , is like haveing a cam that will give great low end and great high end POWER in the same engine , whats not to love .
Donnie , you got screwed , you could have got a create engine with wires and computer from mast for less than 7000 , less time and money spent you would have been ahead of the game , mast calls it their ly6ho , its got 480 hp
04-29-2013, 11:34 AM
#28
Ouch. Donnie that's bad luck. A friend of mine wanted to do a build with his fox. He was going to buy a bare dart Windsor block and forged internals with AFR heads. He was looking at 5 grand just for an unassembled long block and was shooting for 500 HP. I convinced him to buy a 6.0, I think he went LQ4, and some L92 heads. Picked up a complete 6 liter with wiring accessories and computer for 1200, and an assembled set of L92 heads for 300. He did no machine work. Replaced the heads, studded them with new gaskets, Fast 92/92 combo, long tubes, and 23x/24x cam. E85 tune. Made 460 HP to the wheels. That puts him above his 500 HP at the crank goal. He was about $3500 in, plus smaller odds and ends.
04-29-2013, 12:39 PM
#29
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I read through the thread but I didn't find an explanation of what you intend to do with the car. Perhaps I missed it.
If you want something like a full on forced induction drag car, then just buy an iron 5.3 or 6.0.
If you are going to just drive it around on the weekends and you don't care so much about power, then buy whatever is cheapest. That will probably be an iron 4.8 or 5.3.
If you want to save 40-50 lbs and can live with less than about 800 crank hp on a stock short block and rotating assembly, buy an aluminum block LS1.
In my opinion the best thing to happen to aluminum LS1 pricing is the iron 5.3 and everyone believing they need 1000 hp. I'm happy with far less than 800hp and wanted to save the weight, so I bought the aluminum LS1 fbody dropout. I had dedicated race cars long ago and I have no interest in having another one.
If you want something like a full on forced induction drag car, then just buy an iron 5.3 or 6.0.
If you are going to just drive it around on the weekends and you don't care so much about power, then buy whatever is cheapest. That will probably be an iron 4.8 or 5.3.
If you want to save 40-50 lbs and can live with less than about 800 crank hp on a stock short block and rotating assembly, buy an aluminum block LS1.
In my opinion the best thing to happen to aluminum LS1 pricing is the iron 5.3 and everyone believing they need 1000 hp. I'm happy with far less than 800hp and wanted to save the weight, so I bought the aluminum LS1 fbody dropout. I had dedicated race cars long ago and I have no interest in having another one.
04-30-2013, 12:02 AM
#30
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an ly6 2008 or older would be my choice , the newer ones have afm , or dod , thats active fuel management , and displacement on demand , both undesirable features , they are really the same thing .
vvt or variable valve timing is a great feature , you get the best of both worlds as far as cam choices , is like haveing a cam that will give great low end and great high end POWER in the same engine , whats not to love .
Donnie , you got screwed , you could have got a create engine with wires and computer from mast for less than 7000 , less time and money spent you would have been ahead of the game , mast calls it their ly6ho , its got 480 hp
vvt or variable valve timing is a great feature , you get the best of both worlds as far as cam choices , is like haveing a cam that will give great low end and great high end POWER in the same engine , whats not to love .
Donnie , you got screwed , you could have got a create engine with wires and computer from mast for less than 7000 , less time and money spent you would have been ahead of the game , mast calls it their ly6ho , its got 480 hp
Let's not talk about Donnie's mistakes. He's learned his lesson you can only move on from there.
I read through the thread but I didn't find an explanation of what you intend to do with the car. Perhaps I missed it.
If you want something like a full on forced induction drag car, then just buy an iron 5.3 or 6.0.
If you are going to just drive it around on the weekends and you don't care so much about power, then buy whatever is cheapest. That will probably be an iron 4.8 or 5.3.
If you want to save 40-50 lbs and can live with less than about 800 crank hp on a stock short block and rotating assembly, buy an aluminum block LS1.
In my opinion the best thing to happen to aluminum LS1 pricing is the iron 5.3 and everyone believing they need 1000 hp. I'm happy with far less than 800hp and wanted to save the weight, so I bought the aluminum LS1 fbody dropout. I had dedicated race cars long ago and I have no interest in having another one.
If you want something like a full on forced induction drag car, then just buy an iron 5.3 or 6.0.
If you are going to just drive it around on the weekends and you don't care so much about power, then buy whatever is cheapest. That will probably be an iron 4.8 or 5.3.
If you want to save 40-50 lbs and can live with less than about 800 crank hp on a stock short block and rotating assembly, buy an aluminum block LS1.
In my opinion the best thing to happen to aluminum LS1 pricing is the iron 5.3 and everyone believing they need 1000 hp. I'm happy with far less than 800hp and wanted to save the weight, so I bought the aluminum LS1 fbody dropout. I had dedicated race cars long ago and I have no interest in having another one.
I want a reliable, powerful, decent fuel mileage, moderately priced engine and transmission package. The factory rated horsepower is probably going to be enough for me. If I am disappointed with the power I can always hop up the engine with bolt on modifications. I drive my cars frequently and far, so I need reliable with practicality.
Sure, i could go with a carbureted SBC. But everybody with a classic car does that. I like the idea of a modern drivetrain with newer technology.
I currently drive a 1938 Ford pickup truck with a 1991 Chevrolet S10 engine, transmission and rear end. It’s a reliable driver that gets 17mpg. I wish it had more power at times and I wish it got a little bit better mpg, but it’s fine for now.
04-30-2013, 10:08 AM
#31
I'm doing basically the same swap that you are, same car with an LS-1 engine. When I first started looking I wanted a 4.8L. Reason? As you stated the factory HP would be enough. I was wanting close to 300 HP with good fuel mileage. In addition you can’t put huge tires under these to hook that power up.
As my luck would be, I couldn't find a low mileage 4.8L. I stumbled across a LS-1 w/ a 4L60e with less than 39k miles, made a deal and had it delivered.
After thinking about the swap this made more sense to purchase the LS-1 vs. the 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L. I wanted an LS-1 intake. I would need a different oil pan due to the car being so low and I would need all the accessories from an LS-1 due to the tight engine compartment. I paid a premium for the engine and transmission, but I think I came out ahead in the long run because I don’t have to source all the other parts needed.
FWIW
As my luck would be, I couldn't find a low mileage 4.8L. I stumbled across a LS-1 w/ a 4L60e with less than 39k miles, made a deal and had it delivered.
After thinking about the swap this made more sense to purchase the LS-1 vs. the 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L. I wanted an LS-1 intake. I would need a different oil pan due to the car being so low and I would need all the accessories from an LS-1 due to the tight engine compartment. I paid a premium for the engine and transmission, but I think I came out ahead in the long run because I don’t have to source all the other parts needed.
FWIW
05-01-2013, 12:18 AM
#32
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I'm doing basically the same swap that you are, same car with an LS-1 engine. When I first started looking I wanted a 4.8L. Reason? As you stated the factory HP would be enough. I was wanting close to 300 HP with good fuel mileage. In addition you can’t put huge tires under these to hook that power up.
As my luck would be, I couldn't find a low mileage 4.8L. I stumbled across a LS-1 w/ a 4L60e with less than 39k miles, made a deal and had it delivered.
After thinking about the swap this made more sense to purchase the LS-1 vs. the 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L. I wanted an LS-1 intake. I would need a different oil pan due to the car being so low and I would need all the accessories from an LS-1 due to the tight engine compartment. I paid a premium for the engine and transmission, but I think I came out ahead in the long run because I don’t have to source all the other parts needed.
FWIW
As my luck would be, I couldn't find a low mileage 4.8L. I stumbled across a LS-1 w/ a 4L60e with less than 39k miles, made a deal and had it delivered.
After thinking about the swap this made more sense to purchase the LS-1 vs. the 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L. I wanted an LS-1 intake. I would need a different oil pan due to the car being so low and I would need all the accessories from an LS-1 due to the tight engine compartment. I paid a premium for the engine and transmission, but I think I came out ahead in the long run because I don’t have to source all the other parts needed.
FWIW
What tranmission crossmember are you running? Pics?
05-01-2013, 05:52 AM
#33
Link to my build
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ls1-4l60e.html
05-01-2013, 07:36 AM
#34
DOD is undesirable in a performance engine because , it uses different lifters in the cylinders that deactivate , and these lifters are prone to failure . The camshaft also has different lobes for the cylinders that deactivate
05-01-2013, 07:18 PM
#35
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Front crossmember I built using 3x4 tubing. I'll build a trans crossmember too. If you want a bolt in, look at walton fabrication; they have whay you need.
Link to my build
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ls1-4l60e.html
Link to my build
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ls1-4l60e.html
05-07-2013, 02:23 PM
#36
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Guys,
I have found a 2007 5.3L engine with accessories, no ECM or trans with 48,000 miles on it for $800. The guy said he would let it go for $700 if I came this week.
What do you think? Is this a deal worth jumping on? Supposedly the truck is the guys weekend car. He said I can run a compression or leak down test on it to be sure it is ok.
From the salvage yards I have talked to, they all want $2,500 for an engine with accessories, ecm and 4l60E transmission.
I believe that the companies selling wiring harness kits also sell the ECM for an additional $250. Does that sound right?
I have found a 2007 5.3L engine with accessories, no ECM or trans with 48,000 miles on it for $800. The guy said he would let it go for $700 if I came this week.
What do you think? Is this a deal worth jumping on? Supposedly the truck is the guys weekend car. He said I can run a compression or leak down test on it to be sure it is ok.
From the salvage yards I have talked to, they all want $2,500 for an engine with accessories, ecm and 4l60E transmission.
I believe that the companies selling wiring harness kits also sell the ECM for an additional $250. Does that sound right?
05-07-2013, 10:37 PM
#38
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05-08-2013, 02:50 AM
#39
Get everything together. Buying seperate stuff wil nickle and dime you. That would be engine, accessories, harness, ecu, sensors, pedal, TAC, even fuel pump, intake tubing, etc.
Search LM7 or L59 in complete engines on ebay for prices,. You should be able to find a relatively low milage for close to $1000.
Search LM7 or L59 in complete engines on ebay for prices,. You should be able to find a relatively low milage for close to $1000.
05-08-2013, 08:02 AM
#40
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If i was to do it over again i would look for a 6.0. I put a 5.3 in a 1992 pickup using 5 speed manual from truck.I wish i had the torque of the 6.0.Make sure you get all accesories with motor that will save you some dough. I would also get a stand alone wiring harness new from one of the vendors here. For $500 bucks it will be the best money you ever spent. Also make sure you get the pcm with the motor.