54 Bel Air w/LS1 and 4L60e
#1
54 Bel Air w/LS1 and 4L60e
I posted this on the introduction forum, but I'll spend more time here. "I’ve been a member here for almost a year, but never posted. I've been reading all that I can for my next project. I have a 1954 Chevy Bel Air that will get a 2001 Trans Am LS1 and 4L60E. The engine and trans combo have less than 39K. I’m building my own harness with the help from many of the member’s threads concerning stand alone harnesses that frequent the conversion and hybrid section of this forum."
I'm also installing a mustang II front suspension and ford 9" with bags. The project will take some time because of my work schedule. I'll update with pictures as I can.
Picture of the car.
I'm also installing a mustang II front suspension and ford 9" with bags. The project will take some time because of my work schedule. I'll update with pictures as I can.
Picture of the car.
Last edited by DEEDDUDE; 06-30-2017 at 08:10 AM. Reason: I'll upload photos as time permits. thank photobucket's scam
#2
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iTrader: (5)
Gonna look cool. Keep the pics coming as you go along. Good luck.
Jon
PSI
Jon
PSI
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#3
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
Looks like a great start! As Jon said, please post up some pics! Ill be watching....
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#5
The body and paint will be the last thing I do, if I do. I like the patina myself.
#7
TECH Fanatic
54 is my personal favorite of that style. Always wanted to do a BBC in one. This should prove to be a fantastic all around project. Keep posting pics and your progress.
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#9
#11
No new pictures. Very little progress today, which will be expected anyway. I got off work early so I built a vats bypass and tried to sort out the wiring. I've purchased a number of items for the swap and I've had 3 bad experiences with sellers. I hope this isn't something that continues through out the swap. Sellers misrepresenting what they are selling, one may get rectified, the other two who knows; wish me luck.
#12
Small update. I got to put a few hours into the project today. I reorganized the wiring from the motor and just about completed the fuse box. I reclaimed all of the wire used in the fuse box from the original wiring harness, trying to keep with the GM color codes. I only have the interior wire harness and not the one under the hood so some of the wires don't match.
Fuse box pics. I'm not real happy with the fuse holders and relay holders, I may replace these at a later date; but I'm just going to get the car running first. (which means I'll never redo the fuse box)
After I took the pictures the term organized chaos came to mind. Maybe that's the name for this build.
Fuse box pics. I'm not real happy with the fuse holders and relay holders, I may replace these at a later date; but I'm just going to get the car running first. (which means I'll never redo the fuse box)
After I took the pictures the term organized chaos came to mind. Maybe that's the name for this build.
#13
Small update. I tried updating this thread yesterday, but I kept closing the thread when toggling between LS1 and the photo host. Anyway. I finally got a Saturday off. (shhhh… no one knows) After working on three other cars and cleaning out my storage unit in another town I was able to get to work on the ’54. I started with a running driving car and ended up with this.
I got a lot of work completed for just a few hours of work and working by myself.
It took a couple hours to get the body and frame apart, but even longer to get the chassis from underneath the body. The notch kept hanging up on the floor boards. I did this without my engine hoist. If I was smart I would have went and got the hoist, but I would rather spend all day fighting and cussing.
I mocked the narrowed ford 9” rearend up with the disc brakes. It clears by about 1/2" on each side. The rearend is just about complete. Weld brake hose tabs and paint.
The swap may take even more time after getting the body in the air I could actually see the cars floorboards had even more rot than excepted, all of the floor supports are gone. There are several different ways I can attack this and all the parts are available, but expensive.
This weekend I’ll try to get the engine pulled and the rear trailing arms installed. The plan is a 2-link with panhard bar. The front will be a custom mustang II.
Thanks for viewing.
I got a lot of work completed for just a few hours of work and working by myself.
It took a couple hours to get the body and frame apart, but even longer to get the chassis from underneath the body. The notch kept hanging up on the floor boards. I did this without my engine hoist. If I was smart I would have went and got the hoist, but I would rather spend all day fighting and cussing.
I mocked the narrowed ford 9” rearend up with the disc brakes. It clears by about 1/2" on each side. The rearend is just about complete. Weld brake hose tabs and paint.
The swap may take even more time after getting the body in the air I could actually see the cars floorboards had even more rot than excepted, all of the floor supports are gone. There are several different ways I can attack this and all the parts are available, but expensive.
This weekend I’ll try to get the engine pulled and the rear trailing arms installed. The plan is a 2-link with panhard bar. The front will be a custom mustang II.
Thanks for viewing.
#15
Update: Over the last two weeks I've only had the opportunity to work on the car for two of those days. Here's the progress. Excuse the mess I took these as soon as I finished cycling the bags up and down. Finished the rear air bag install, I still need to install the pan hard bar. I have been thinking about a watts link, still undecided.
I'm making my own lower cross member and upper mounts, I don't like the way kits on the market mount the uppers. Racing slicks make the perfect table, I hate working on the floor.
Mocking up the front I discovered I'll need to cut a wedge for under the cross member. The frame rolls down 6 degrees keeping the lower control arm from being level, simple fix; that's why everything is just tacked up. I'll get to it on my next day off.
Thanks for looking.
I'm making my own lower cross member and upper mounts, I don't like the way kits on the market mount the uppers. Racing slicks make the perfect table, I hate working on the floor.
Mocking up the front I discovered I'll need to cut a wedge for under the cross member. The frame rolls down 6 degrees keeping the lower control arm from being level, simple fix; that's why everything is just tacked up. I'll get to it on my next day off.
Thanks for looking.
#19
58". The stock rear end is 60". I wanted to run wider rims and tires so I narrowed a 9" I had. The brake calipers clears by about a 1/2" on each side, I'll trim the frame on each side to gain 3/4" more per side.
#20
More pics soon. I've been a little under the weather and hadn't taken any pics, but I have made some progress. Getting closer to setting the engine and trans in the frame.