Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

Check the connector at the CKP sensor. Hot exhaust loves to harden the wires and connector. Sometimes the pins back out has you're plugging it in. Ive also seen the wires melt together so not only check for continuity but check continuity between each of the pins. Pull the PCM, disconnect the sensor, and check continuity between pin A,B and C. If you do its somewhere in the wiring harness.

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

I havent taken a light to the injectors. I figured that was worthless for
1)I know the plugs arent getting signal since they arent firing with proper 12v and ground. That only leaves 1 other possibility
AND
2)Who gives a **** if injectors are actually firing if no spark to combust?

And yes, I've given it a few looks aver, but with swapped cars and hundreds of cut wires...

I think i remember trying to check cont between CKP connector and all PCM pins, such as pin A on connector to all PCM pins and the same with B and C. Will double check just between PCM pins though.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

I must have skimmed over the part that said you aren't getting spark.

A) Wiring
b) Bad PCM

But since you've put it in another car and it worked, you've got a wiring issue.

Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

Put the new pigtail on the CKP sensor wiring. My friend had the same problem.. intermittently would run and die. It even did it during WOT at times, why he got it like that I'll never know. With swapped cars, usually we have less room to work with so it forces us to push the exhaust in closer. Sounds like some heat got to the wiring.

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

Any places to buy the CKP pigtail besides a GM dealer? (locally, not online)

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

Ok so got the pigtail connector. Connected 12v from battery to pin C, grounded pin B and attached black multimeter lead to it and attached red lead to pin A. Turned car over by hand. Went 0-12v-0-12v-0, etc. Plugged my old stock CKP into my test set up and it did the same thing when i touched it to metal and pulled it away. Sounds normal right?

So went back and retested my PCM blue pins. They had all previously checked good, even while cranking. So now pin 19 (12v with IGN on) has 12v with ignition on. Still good. Checked pins 20 and 57 again which are supposed to have 12v constant. They now have 0.6v with IGN OFF and 2.2v with IGN ON...

Anyone know where these pins are supposed to wire into?

curbcheck

I know you have it disabled but it sounds like the VATS. can you check and make sure its still disabled

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

Obviously not VATS or my PCM would not have started a Trans-am....

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

Cavities 20 and 57 should go to a fused battery source with a 10amp fuse. So it should be going to your fuse block.

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

Can you explain how it only has 2v going to it with ignition on and 0.6v with ignition off?

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

It seems it is either shorting to ground or there is a bad connection somewhere bleeding off voltage. Jumper 12v there and see if it fixes the problem.

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

Never mind, I'm an idiot...it was because of one of the connectors behind the dash I unplugged when I pulled the dash out. PCM still has power. Why they had any voltage...I have no clue.

Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

So did that fix it?

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

Did what fix it? The PCM pins that weren't getting voltage? It seems that those were no longer getting voltage because of a connector i unplugged in the cabiin while pulling the dash.

Either way, the answer is no, it is still currently not running/starting

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

Any other ideas?

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

I looked over the thread, but did you ever change the Crank Position Sensor Pigtail?

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

No. I did however buy a spare CKP connector pigtail and put 12 Volts on it, grounded it, and volt tested across it while turning by hand. I got 12v-0v-12v-0v. I did the same test with the pigtail and my orginal CKP that I replaced on just a piece of metal. 12v when i touched the metal, 0v when i pulled it away.

So i then plugged my stock CKP connector back on and put 12 volts on PCM Blue 2, Volt test across pins 12 (CKP ground) and 21 (CKP reference signal). Turn engine over by hand and I get 12v - 0v - 12v - 0v etc. So the signal is getting between the PCM and CKP.

I have been having some other weird issues. First, the left turn signal flashed all on its own. It would flash like 3-5 times, pause for anywhere from 5 seconds-10min, then start flashing again, etc. That seems to have stopped. Then just the other night I was watching TV and got scared as **** as i heard a blaring noise from downstairs. Thought it may have been a smoke detector or something. Ran down there and the car horn was just constantly going off (mind you, I don't even have a steering wheel with horn buttons on the car now). So undid the battery. Dug through the wiring diagrams, it seems like the RX7 has a CPU that is similar to the fbody BCM which contains both the flasher and horn relays. I suppose my next step would be to unplug that and see if that's even somehow wired into the whole ignition wiring and possibly find a spare to put in.

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

The 3 grounds that go to the back of the drivers head, where do they run to and what do they ground? As shown as #23, 24, and 25 in the pic:

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

I believe they feed multiple ground users, such as pcm, sensors, relays, etc.

Do you have a good clean ground between the engine and chassis?

usmcpi

iTrader: (2)

I mean I realize they ground the sensors and what not, but I was just wondering what each specifically ground, especially 23 asI found it broken last night so HOPEFULLY problem solved.