New Hooker 2nd-gen F-body LS swap components now released
#201
TECH Resident
I've owned my red, 1980 Z28 since it was brand new and rolled out of the dealer's showroom back in April of 1980. It's currently got an old school 406 SBC and an old school Richmond Gear 6-speed transmission. The car has not been on the road since 2006.
I'm going to go with a Tremec T56 Magnum. It appears that the newer F Body specific T56 Magnum is the transmission that I want to minimize the hassles of trying to fit the "standard" Magnum in my Z28's transmission tunnel. Confirmation, please. Thank you!
I'm going to go with a Tremec T56 Magnum. It appears that the newer F Body specific T56 Magnum is the transmission that I want to minimize the hassles of trying to fit the "standard" Magnum in my Z28's transmission tunnel. Confirmation, please. Thank you!
#202
Hello dannyual777. I have not installed the new F-body Magnum transmission into any vehicles at this point, so I cannot give you absolute validation as to how well one will install in your 1980 Z28. The best help I can provide you with are photos of a factory 4th-gen F-body T56 installed into a 1976 Camaro. As you can see, clearance for the shifter housing needed to be provided by cutting into the floor brace, so you should be expecting to have to do something similar. The shifter housing of the regular T56 Magnum is located further forward and would actually require less complex clearancing to install.
#203
#204
Toddoky,
Does Holley offer a 4L80E trans. Mount? I see conflicting data in the books I’ve looked into.
thanks,
jimbo
Does Holley offer a 4L80E trans. Mount? I see conflicting data in the books I’ve looked into.
thanks,
jimbo
#205
TECH Resident
Hello dannyual777. I have not installed the new F-body Magnum transmission into any vehicles at this point, so I cannot give you absolute validation as to how well one will install in your 1980 Z28. The best help I can provide you with are photos of a factory 4th-gen F-body T56 installed into a 1976 Camaro. As you can see, clearance for the shifter housing needed to be provided by cutting into the floor brace, so you should be expecting to have to do something similar. The shifter housing of the regular T56 Magnum is located further forward and would actually require less complex clearancing to install.
The shifter position is going to be important in that I’d like to be able to use my stock, manual shifter center console. When I installed the Richmond 6-speed back in December of 1994, the shifter position was a little bit aft of the OEM 4-sp shifter position. I had to get a little creative to make it work and it did work. No one ever knew that my console was sitting maybe an inch aft and that the front of the console wasn’t bolted to the dash.
I’m going to need to get the shifter position measurements of both the standard and F Body Tremec Magnums. I’m pretty sure I read that the standard Magnum is bulkier and will require more clearance work inside the 2nd gen F body transmission tunnel.
#206
TECH Resident
#207
TECH Resident
Due to its unique design geometry, this crossmember must be installed in conjunction with Hooker Blackheart 12512HKR or 12613HKR engine mounting brackets to provide correct engine offset geometry and U-joint working angles. This crossmember will provide for installation of an LS engine and Tremec™ LS F-body/GTO T56 transmission into this application without requiring any cutting or hammering of the vehicle body, with the exception of shifter hole that must be cut and the required clearance that must be provided for the reverse lockout solenoid. The location of the shifter hole dictates that it is necessary to cut into the floor mid-brace on some model year cars and will therefore require minor fabrication and/or welding to re-box the brace, if so desired. Installation of a Tremec™ aftermarket T56 Magnum transmission will require additional floor clearance modifications due to its physically larger size.
#208
TECH Resident
I'm reviving this dead thread. I found out on the Foxbody swap thread that some of the Holley/Hooker LS swap headers were no longer available from Holley or other retailers. I decided to go check the Holley website to see if the Hooker LS swap headers for my 1980 Z28 were still available. This is what I found:
HOOKER SUPER COMPETITION LONG TUBE HEADER - STAINLESS
While doing another internet search late last night after the Super Bowl, I found this page on Pace Performance's website:
HOOKER HEADERS SUPER COMPETITION LONG TUBE HEADER 2296HKR
Under DESCRIPTION, it says, "Black Painted - 1975-81 F-Body LS Swap - 1.875 in. Tubing - 3 in. Coll - Round Port - 304 Stainless Steel - Superseded To PN[70101310-RHKR]"
Superseded? I took that PN and did a Duck Duck Go online search and found this:
Hooker LS Engine Swap Headers 70101310-RHKR
Hmmmm? Are these 70101310 headers the same as the "Not Available" 2296-7HKR?
Todd, if you're still here can you shed some light on this?
HOOKER SUPER COMPETITION LONG TUBE HEADER - STAINLESS
While doing another internet search late last night after the Super Bowl, I found this page on Pace Performance's website:
HOOKER HEADERS SUPER COMPETITION LONG TUBE HEADER 2296HKR
Under DESCRIPTION, it says, "Black Painted - 1975-81 F-Body LS Swap - 1.875 in. Tubing - 3 in. Coll - Round Port - 304 Stainless Steel - Superseded To PN[70101310-RHKR]"
Superseded? I took that PN and did a Duck Duck Go online search and found this:
Hooker LS Engine Swap Headers 70101310-RHKR
Hmmmm? Are these 70101310 headers the same as the "Not Available" 2296-7HKR?
Todd, if you're still here can you shed some light on this?
#209
I'm reviving this dead thread. I found out on the Foxbody swap thread that some of the Holley/Hooker LS swap headers were no longer available from Holley or other retailers. I decided to go check the Holley website to see if the Hooker LS swap headers for my 1980 Z28 were still available. This is what I found:
HOOKER SUPER COMPETITION LONG TUBE HEADER - STAINLESS
While doing another internet search late last night after the Super Bowl, I found this page on Pace Performance's website:
HOOKER HEADERS SUPER COMPETITION LONG TUBE HEADER 2296HKR
Under DESCRIPTION, it says, "Black Painted - 1975-81 F-Body LS Swap - 1.875 in. Tubing - 3 in. Coll - Round Port - 304 Stainless Steel - Superseded To PN[70101310-RHKR]"
Superseded? I took that PN and did a Duck Duck Go online search and found this:
Hooker LS Engine Swap Headers 70101310-RHKR
Hmmmm? Are these 70101310 headers the same as the "Not Available" 2296-7HKR?
Todd, if you're still here can you shed some light on this?
HOOKER SUPER COMPETITION LONG TUBE HEADER - STAINLESS
While doing another internet search late last night after the Super Bowl, I found this page on Pace Performance's website:
HOOKER HEADERS SUPER COMPETITION LONG TUBE HEADER 2296HKR
Under DESCRIPTION, it says, "Black Painted - 1975-81 F-Body LS Swap - 1.875 in. Tubing - 3 in. Coll - Round Port - 304 Stainless Steel - Superseded To PN[70101310-RHKR]"
Superseded? I took that PN and did a Duck Duck Go online search and found this:
Hooker LS Engine Swap Headers 70101310-RHKR
Hmmmm? Are these 70101310 headers the same as the "Not Available" 2296-7HKR?
Todd, if you're still here can you shed some light on this?
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G Atsma (02-13-2023)
#211
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I have a 2004 C5 LS1 swap going into a 85 Pontiac Grand Prix. I installed the 302-2 pan per the instructions....very easy. Today I went to install the Holley Engine brackets and the passenger (right) side hits the AC bracket and compressor. I had to remove the AC bracket/compressor from the block to install the bracket. The engine bracket mount fits fine, but I'm unable to reinstall the AC bracket and compressor with the Holley mounts in place.
On the drivers (left) side, when I went to install the engine bracket mount, the bracket will not fit as it makes contact with the OEM exhaust manifold (driver's side only). I loosened up the exhaust manifold and pulled it away slightly from the head, I was then able to insert the bracket into place and bolt it to the block. I was thinking maybe it just was too tight getting around the exhaust manifold tube to get into place originally. However, I pressed the exhaust manifold by hand back towards the head and it makes contact before it is all the way against the head. It definitely won't seal against the gasket, it was obvious without tightening the manifold bolts. It looks like clearancing the bracket about 1/16" would solve the issue. I was just wondering if there is a difference between the F Body cast OEM exhaust manifolds and the C5 (Y) body? Seems like the exhaust manifolds should be similar, but either way there is a clearance issue on both sides of the engine coming into contact with OEM parts using the OEM Vette exhaust manifold and AC compressor/bracket.
I'm more concerned about the driver's side making contact with the OEM exhaust manifold, as on the passenger side I plan to remove the AC from the bottom location or use a mini AC compressor. I don't want to notch the frame on the car, so relocating or a buying different AC compressor and bracket is a must.
On the drivers (left) side, when I went to install the engine bracket mount, the bracket will not fit as it makes contact with the OEM exhaust manifold (driver's side only). I loosened up the exhaust manifold and pulled it away slightly from the head, I was then able to insert the bracket into place and bolt it to the block. I was thinking maybe it just was too tight getting around the exhaust manifold tube to get into place originally. However, I pressed the exhaust manifold by hand back towards the head and it makes contact before it is all the way against the head. It definitely won't seal against the gasket, it was obvious without tightening the manifold bolts. It looks like clearancing the bracket about 1/16" would solve the issue. I was just wondering if there is a difference between the F Body cast OEM exhaust manifolds and the C5 (Y) body? Seems like the exhaust manifolds should be similar, but either way there is a clearance issue on both sides of the engine coming into contact with OEM parts using the OEM Vette exhaust manifold and AC compressor/bracket.
I'm more concerned about the driver's side making contact with the OEM exhaust manifold, as on the passenger side I plan to remove the AC from the bottom location or use a mini AC compressor. I don't want to notch the frame on the car, so relocating or a buying different AC compressor and bracket is a must.