TransAm_Stan

Agreed! One of the reasons I went with these mounts.

Swapped the mounts around. It is better, but the fit could be lower as shown in my pics below.





Still needs to come down an inch or so & an inch back to align up with the holes.

Now what? Is this as good as it gets? I hope not!

THANKS for the Support!

If we can get this to fit right I might spring for a set of long tubes! LOL

Stan

Update: Seems like these mounts want to bolt in further forward than stock. I assume this is engineered in the design. Looks like at a minumum I will have to drill some holes? (hope not)

I still need to lower it in some way. I have almost 2" of oil pan to subframe clearance.

Gettin' there!

user 4737373

The tabs in the ends of your clamshells are not engaged with the ears of the engine brackets correctly, which indicates to me that you are using something other than the 2292 mounts (Anchor, Westar or equivalent brands) that the brackets were designed to work with. They will not work with any other clamshells other than the 2292's. Get yourself a set of the 2292's and I think things will begin to fall into place for you.

Yes, the transmission will move forward slightly from the stock position to adjust for the shorter length of the LS block compared to the original Chevy SB.

user 4737373

Here's a photo for you showing an LS engine installed in a 76' Camaro with the 12613HKR engine brackets. The 2nd-gens have tons of room between the oil pan and the crossmember, so you shouldn't use that as an arbitrary gauge of engine height. You are using a F-body oil pan, which will create the most space possible between the pan and the crossmember. The engine height/inclination angle achieved with the Hooker engine brackets and transmission crossmember is configured to obtain desirable U-joint working angles and to allow the low-mount 4th gen F-body alternator to clear the Pitman arm (when using the Firebird dropped pitman arm and steering centerlink).

TransAm_Stan

Thanks for the info sir!

cpd004

iTrader: (13)

Toddoky, How about part numbers for a 2011 Corvette Ls3 and a 4L60E into a 71 Firebird that originally came with a 400. Will I have to drill any holes in the sub frame? I'm interested in the engine mounts, cross member and headers. Not sure if long tube will go in with minimal trouble. Will I need to drill or massage anything to make your components work?

user 4737373

Engine bracket kit-12512HKR, 4L60 crossmember-12614HKR. You'll have to drill a couple of holes in your subframe since your car was originally equipped with frame stands, but a drilling template is included with the bracket kit to make it an easy operation. You'll also need to swap out your power steering pump pulley for one of a smaller diameter (I can't remember the application off hand, but many folks on this site can help you with that).

Sebtarta

iTrader: (1)

If you are using the accessory brackets on the LS3 you will need this pulley #12578552. When pressing the pulley on the power steering it needs to be pressed on 0.150” short of full. Pulley is about 1/2" smaller.

user 4737373

Thanks for chiming in Sebtarta, I remembered you we one of the users that had made the switch to the smaller pulley.

cpd004

iTrader: (13)

So what makes this setup better than say one like from here:

http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...gory_Code=CNV2

where no holes need to be drilled?

user 4737373

For starters I would have to say the fore/aft engine positioning and inclination angle achieved with the Hooker mounting components is geared more towards someone concerned with the performance handling characteristics of the vehicle after the swap is completed (ground clearance and U-joint working angles included); the BRP brackets/mounts position the engine further forward and higher up in the subframe, which has a negative affect on your center of mass and reduces the available space for packaging radiators, fans, turbo's, air intake piping etc.

Here's a couple more...

The collectors on the Hooker headers are fully welded instead of being a slip-on configuration like the BRP headers. Using slip connectors is not a good idea on a fuel injected engine when they are located in front of 02 sensors as they quite frequently can leak and skew the O2 readings. If they are not loose enough to leak, they are a PITA to install.

The Hooker engine brackets are designed around common, off-the-shelf replacement mounts (clamshells), which are inexpensive and available from your local parts house should you need to replace them. You can also choose to run either rubber or poly mounts with the Hooker set-up. BRP-proprietary poly mount only.

The Hooker headers (both the mid-length and long-tubes) are available in both mild steel (painted or coated) or stainless steel. BRP-mild steel only

The Hooker crossmembers are CAD designed with a full FEA to ensure their strength and STIFFNESS in demanding performance situations. They also have higher exhaust routing arches for better ground clearance. The BRP crossmember has no arches under which to route your exhaust (it comes straight out from the subframe mounting pads).

If you choose, there are full 2.5" and 3" exhaust systems available from Hooker that connect to the Hooker headers in a bolt-on fashion. BRP-no

Based on the pricing shown in the link you posted, you can get your engine/trans mounted into your car for about $75 less with the Hooker set-up.

I could keep going with a few more, but I think this list is s a good primer for you to become familiar with some of the attributes of the Hooker set-up.

You might find the BRP works "better" for you based on your own purchase/use criteria and I certainly could not fault you for that.

M6 Swap

iTrader: (1)

^^^Once again, great customer service. This is the main reason I went with Hooker products.

cpd004

iTrader: (13)

Toddoky, I appreciate the explanation. I am leaning towards your setup so far.

Aron Kerner

iTrader: (3)

Have a 73 trans am I am getting ready to drop a LQ4 turbo motor in. Due to having to figure out forward facing headers I cannot use your headers. But I am not totally clear on the engine mounts for my car. How is my subframe different from the 73 Camaro's? You mentioned "frame stands"? Not sure what you mean. I have the engine mounts on the engine and the ears on the subframe...is this what you mean by frame stands?

I had always assumed those who put a chevy engine in their Pontiacs just swapped out both of these parts from a 73 Camaro and it bolted right in...am I incorrect?

user 4737373

Hello Aaron. The subframe of your car will be the same as a 73 Camaro, but the engine mounts will be different since your car was originally equipped with a Pontiac engine instead of a small-block Chevy (you could get a 305 SB Chevy or a Oldsmobile 403 V8 starting in 1977). The Hooker engine brackets are designed to work with the common 2292 Chevy style clamshell mounts and the holes for them should be present in your subframe; just un-bolt whatever mounts you have attached to your car now and replace them with a set of the 2292 clamshells and you'll be good to go.

For your knowledge, "frame stands" are what GM used in the 2nd-gen F-body cars before they switched to the clamshell mounts in 72/73.

Aron Kerner

iTrader: (3)

I do appreciate the reply. Thanks for clarifying that.

Aron Kerner

iTrader: (3)

I forgot to ask...is there any plan to produce the 4L80e crossmember for the 2nd gens? I saw you have one out now for 1st gens.

user 4737373

The Hooker 1st-gen 4L80 crossmember is not yet available but will be soon. We will be designing/releasing a cantilevered adapter bracket in the near future that bolts to the center of the Hooker 12616HKR T56 crossmember and allows you 2nd-gen guys to install a 4L80 into your cars. If you have fabrications skills you can fashion a similar bracket yourself in the meantime to fit on the Hooker T56 crossmember; the mount attachment location on the 4L80 transmission is 3.8" further back and 1.6" higher than the mount attachment location on a T56.

Jimbo1367

wow thats awfully high in the air. Forget about regular driveshaft with those driveline angles. Can you say: CV driveshaft ?

user 4737373

I think you are thrown off by the asymmetrical offset of the brackets that is used to center the engine in the subframe as the 1st gen F-bodies are set-up from the factory Jimbo1367. The Hooker 2nd-gen mounting components actually install the engine at a 3.5 degrees of down angle with no issues with driveline/U-joint working angles; there is a ton of surplus clearance between the bottom of the oil pan and the crossmember on 2nd-gens compared to 1st-gen F-bodies. There are 2nd-gen swaps out there that are set-up with 5-6 degrees of engine inclination angle, but that's not what you get with the Hooker components.

Ernie W

iTrader: (1)

I may have overlooked it, but what transmission mount is used with the 75-81 T56 cross member? Is it just the stock 98-02 Fbody T56 transmission mount?