New Hooker 2nd-gen F-body LS swap components now released
#142
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
You can purchase/use the 4L80 adapter we sell for the Hooker G-body crossmember as long as you are willing/capably of drilling a couple of extra holes in your Hooker 2nd-gen T56 crossmember. We will eventually revise the crossmember to include the extra holes, but it will take a little time to get it done.
#143
#144
TECH Junkie
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Sure, I drilled them all myself at lunchtime and put them back on the shelf! Just a joke obviously; existing product typically does not get re-worked to expand application coverage. Such changes are made at the engineering level as design revisions on the drawings and are put into affect in subsequent production runs. I do this type of design change as a side project if it's something management warrants as being worthwhile. If not, I keep cranking on the next LS swap system application.
#146
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Thread Starter
As there are different rear axle/suspension set-ups that are popularly used in 2nd-gens there isn't a universal length of driveshaft that will work with all of them. You need to take measurements after your swap and work with a reputable driveshaft shop to get an appropriate length shaft made. Most of the shops out there are very helpful with explaining the process to you over the phone.
#147
LS F-Body low mount ac compressor compatability
P/N 12512HKR (1970-74) & P/N 12613HKR (1975-81)
GM F-Body LS Engine Swap Mounting Brackets
Stock low-mount A/C compressors are not compatible with these mounts. The compressor must be upper-mounted to the right
cylinder head with the use of a Holley® 20-133 (GM R4), 20-134 (Sanden SD508 or SD7), or similar bracket assembly.
Can anybody tell me why?
GM F-Body LS Engine Swap Mounting Brackets
Stock low-mount A/C compressors are not compatible with these mounts. The compressor must be upper-mounted to the right
cylinder head with the use of a Holley® 20-133 (GM R4), 20-134 (Sanden SD508 or SD7), or similar bracket assembly.
Can anybody tell me why?
#151
Todd,
I am doing an LS1 with 4L60E swap in my 1981 Pontiac Trans am. Other than the motor mounts for 75-81, trans crossmember and 2292 clamshell and headers and exhaust what else do I need to make my swap go in? part numbers would be great so I can order ASAP.
I am doing an LS1 with 4L60E swap in my 1981 Pontiac Trans am. Other than the motor mounts for 75-81, trans crossmember and 2292 clamshell and headers and exhaust what else do I need to make my swap go in? part numbers would be great so I can order ASAP.
#152
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#153
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At long last, the pictures of my trans cross member installed. To recap:
Car is lowered, but front suspension will need to be adjusted down due to drop in weight from the new engine. Adjustable coil overs are nice to have.
Better clearance between the belt and the front upper control arm. With the old crossmember, I had about 1/4 inch, now have 3/4
- This is a 1981 Trans Am (with 78 nose, in case that confuses people)
- I originally had a 5.3 with a C5 Batwing pan, edelbrock muscle car ls headers and a crap dual 2.5 to single 3 inch exhaust.
- I now have a ls3 with the C6 oil pan, the same headers and a dual 3" pypes x-pipe exhaust.
- I am using the. Holley/hooker conversion trans cross member with a prothane mount.
- My lower motor mounts are welded to the frame and my upper mounts are the typical 1 inch set backs.
Car is lowered, but front suspension will need to be adjusted down due to drop in weight from the new engine. Adjustable coil overs are nice to have.
Better clearance between the belt and the front upper control arm. With the old crossmember, I had about 1/4 inch, now have 3/4
Last edited by 1981TA; 11-24-2015 at 11:51 AM.
#154
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just a quick question, I may have missed it but which subframe does the steel spacer included with the mounts go to? Does this go on a pre-75 subframe or a 75-81?
Last edited by 1976CamaroGuy; 12-02-2015 at 01:16 PM.
#155
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I also wanted to point out, it would be nice to either have had the mounts stamped "passenger" and "drivers" side so the orientation isn't confusing.
I looked all over my mounts for a drivers or passenger side indication and grabbed the instructions and went over them several times and couldn't find anything.
I took a guess as to what looks "right" and ended up putting them in backwards, a few hours later I found this thread after scratching my head as to what was wrong. Could have saved the headache if the parts were marked or at least had something in the instructions that the "shorter one" was "X" side of the motor.
It was a pain in the *** getting them in a cramped bay by themselves, but having to do it twice really sucked. Just a heads up
I looked all over my mounts for a drivers or passenger side indication and grabbed the instructions and went over them several times and couldn't find anything.
I took a guess as to what looks "right" and ended up putting them in backwards, a few hours later I found this thread after scratching my head as to what was wrong. Could have saved the headache if the parts were marked or at least had something in the instructions that the "shorter one" was "X" side of the motor.
It was a pain in the *** getting them in a cramped bay by themselves, but having to do it twice really sucked. Just a heads up
#156
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Thanks for contacting Holley Performance Products. That 2 hole spacer is for use with the 12616HKR crossmember and a T56 transmission.If you are installing a T56 Magnum, the included two-hole spacer is to be installed between the crossmember and the isolator to compensate for the isolator mounting surface of the T56 Magnum being closer to the transmission output shaft centerline than the
same surface on an LS F-Body/GTO T56.Leaving this spacer out will increase the engine inclination angle beyond that intended by Hooker and decrease the ground clearance of Hooker headers designed for this application.
same surface on an LS F-Body/GTO T56.Leaving this spacer out will increase the engine inclination angle beyond that intended by Hooker and decrease the ground clearance of Hooker headers designed for this application.
#159
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It is a bit tough to get some answer sometimes...they couldn't answer me when I called and took my number saying they'd call back the next day. It took another 2 days before they finally called back.
On another note...I have been chasing some issues related to an exhaust leak and came to find out that both of my headers had holes in them at the collectors...not sure if it'll show in the pic...
On one side it was affecting the readings by the O2 sensor...huge pain to find the problem.
On another note...I have been chasing some issues related to an exhaust leak and came to find out that both of my headers had holes in them at the collectors...not sure if it'll show in the pic...
On one side it was affecting the readings by the O2 sensor...huge pain to find the problem.
#160
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It is a bit tough to get some answer sometimes...they couldn't answer me when I called and took my number saying they'd call back the next day. It took another 2 days before they finally called back.
On another note...I have been chasing some issues related to an exhaust leak and came to find out that both of my headers had holes in them at the collectors...not sure if it'll show in the pic...
On one side it was affecting the readings by the O2 sensor...huge pain to find the problem.
On another note...I have been chasing some issues related to an exhaust leak and came to find out that both of my headers had holes in them at the collectors...not sure if it'll show in the pic...
On one side it was affecting the readings by the O2 sensor...huge pain to find the problem.
You'll get false lean readings, which might explain all the carbon build up on the inside of your headers.
Andrew