5.3 s10 under 3 grand?
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ok so i have some questions. if i go to carb instead of efi how would i control the timing?
im guessing with the ignition control box? and what about headers? a buddy of mine says that the truck manifolds are just as good headers but i dont see how.
im guessing with the ignition control box? and what about headers? a buddy of mine says that the truck manifolds are just as good headers but i dont see how.
#42
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As far as headers go, unless they are longtubes I agree. Shorties are a waste of time, might see a little gain up top, but not worth it imo. I got the brp longtubes, but they were 700 bucks shipped
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If you don't want to buy a h3 oil pan and are handy with a welder, you can run your factory pan and just notch the k-member. Correct, 95 and up explorers are disc rears. You can run the 8.8" at stock width and get offset wheels, or shorten the long side 3" and run 2 short side axels. LT1tech.com has a **** ton of wiring info if you have the patience to do it yourself. BP Automotive can convert your factory harness for a good price too. I believe they are a vendor on here, if not, sorry! I know for a better pump, some ppl are running a 2.2 flexfuel fuel pump.
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i got a transgo shift kit from a buddy today for free.there is a guy with a 6.0l and 317 heads for 600 bucks. im pretty for sure thats what we are gonna get. i think we might go with carb just for the simple fact that then we can tune it and not pay 350-400 bucks for a tune.
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Well I hope so cause I will have around 1000-1200 in the swapover for the 5.3 I am getting. I don't plan to try to rev it to 15000 roms or anything ridiculously high for power levels.. It will be driven to and from the track and run either 9.0 or 8.50 in the 1/8th mile. That is all I am looking for.
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got a motor today. its a 5.3 bored to a 5.7. has a 598 lift lunati cam. freash rebuilt short block with arp rod bolts, water pump, harness, some sensors, brand new mls head gaskets, header gaskets, rockers and bolts, springs, a set of 706 heads but says one has a hair line crack. he was a really good dude. gave me a hell of a deal. 450 for everything
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57" is what I was told by the guy that built both my 8.8s. He's a REALLY knowlegable builder that does these all the time. Narrowing the long side would actually make finding wheels much easier. You could run stock offset front wheels and a different offset rear wheel with ford pattern. Someone else mentioned drag lites and that's a great option...
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57" is what I was told by the guy that built both my 8.8s. He's a REALLY knowlegable builder that does these all the time. Narrowing the long side would actually make finding wheels much easier. You could run stock offset front wheels and a different offset rear wheel with ford pattern. Someone else mentioned drag lites and that's a great option...
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He charges $75 per side to narrow the housing. On the 8.8 the axle won't cost you any extra if you go to a place like Pick-n-pull because you can just get two short side axles when you buy it. He can't drill for chevy pattern though he is working on it. I couldn't find a place in the whole state to drill mine so I did it myself.
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So I just looked it up, 8.8"=59.5" hub to hub, s10 7.5=54.5 hub to hub. So 56.5" is where it would be. Like ss454327 said, run ford boltpattern wheels in back and chevy in front.
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And carry around two spare tires!?!? I got a Olds Bravada disc rear end in mine. Cost me $275 and bolted in except for the rear sway bar. I think it's about 1" wider on both ends.
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Yes...8.5. You can get lucky and find that exact rear end in some Blazers as well. I've found several 7.8 disc rear ends if drag racing is not in your plan. Now there are several companies that make the billet adapters from Ford to Chevy bolt patterns but that adds width to an already wide 8.8.
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Yes...8.5. You can get lucky and find that exact rear end in some Blazers as well. I've found several 7.8 disc rear ends if drag racing is not in your plan. Now there are several companies that make the billet adapters from Ford to Chevy bolt patterns but that adds width to an already wide 8.8.
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it can be done. im doing a turbo 4.8 hardbody nissan right now. i got the engine for $250, the 4l80e for $100 and a explorer 8.8 for $50 the harness was free from my brother and the truck was $950 after tax title and licence. CRAIGSLIST IS YOUR FRIEND! now its the little things that get expensive. ls1 intake bigger cam/injectors/push rods/springs. i left the stock oil pan on mine only because it almost clears my cross member so im modifying it. the truck oil pan only sits 2" lower than the stock one. so ill make my cross member lower than the oil pan. so if can build a 700hp turbo one at a little over 3200 with a tc78 you can make a n/a one under 3k